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Immersion partly working

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  • 07-02-2017 7:30pm
    #1
    tmccar
    Registered Users Posts: 146 ✭✭


    I have a problem with my immersion heater. The "bath" is heating the water ok, but the "sink" does nothing. Does it look like I will need to replace the whole element?
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    #2
    Sleeper12
    Registered Users Posts: 16,985 ✭✭✭✭Sleeper12


    tmccar wrote:
    I have a problem with my immersion heater. The "bath" is heating the water ok, but the "sink" does nothing. Does it look like I will need to replace the whole element?


    It could be the switch itself that's faulty. An electrician will test both & tell you what needs to be done.
    Not all electricians like to work with water. It's best to check with them over the phone before you engage them.
    Some plumbers can test the switch too. Again it's best to ask over the phone to be sure


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    #3
    coylemj
    Registered Users Posts: 25,391 ✭✭✭✭coylemj


    Sleeper12 wrote: »
    It could be the switch itself that's faulty.

    It could but it's more than likely that the sink element is bunched.
    Sleeper12 wrote: »
    An electrician will test both & tell you what needs to be done.

    Wouldn't that visit cost the same or more than the price of a new dual element?

    I would assume that the whole element needs to be replaced.


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    #4
    Sleeper12
    Registered Users Posts: 16,985 ✭✭✭✭Sleeper12


    coylemj wrote:
    It could but it's more than likely that the sink element is bunched.

    I agree
    coylemj wrote:
    Wouldn't that visit cost the same or more than the price of a new dual element?
    Op hasn't said if they would try replacing themselves. I wouldn't suggest it. If Op doesn't know how to test the switch or immersion then I assume that the job is beyond their skill level. It's very easy to damage the cylinder collar even for a plumber. A new cylinder would be needed then and a 130 Euro job will jump to a 400/ 450 euro job
    If they have to get a tradesman out I was just showing what to look out for in a tradesman for this job.
    coylemj wrote:
    I would assume that the whole element needs to be replaced.

    Yes. Both elements are joined so both would need replacing. I wouldn't replace anything without testing the switch and element with a multi meter first


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    #5
    tmccar
    Registered Users Posts: 146 ✭✭tmccar


    Well I've replaced the element with a new one.But now I have a new problem - no water coming to the hot water taps.


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    #6
    Sleeper12
    Registered Users Posts: 16,985 ✭✭✭✭Sleeper12


    tmccar wrote:
    Well I've replaced the element with a new one.But now I have a new problem - no water coming to the hot water taps.

    Assuming you turned the valve back on & assuming that the valve hasn't snapped inside the body in the off position, then you seem to have an airlock


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    #7
    Bruthal
    Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 ✭✭✭✭Bruthal


    tmccar wrote: »
    Well I've replaced the element with a new one.But now I have a new problem - no water coming to the hot water taps.

    Air locked if valve is back on. Often a problem with the hot taps after partly emptying cylinder.


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    #8
    Cerco
    Registered Users Posts: 2,036 ✭✭✭Cerco


    Connect a hose between hot and cold taps. Open both. This should clear the air lock.


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    #9
    RebelButtMunch
    Registered Users Posts: 2,378 ✭✭✭RebelButtMunch


    If you have a mixer tap put your hand under it to block it and turn it on 50/50 hot/cold


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    #10
    tmccar
    Registered Users Posts: 146 ✭✭tmccar


    RebelButtMunch wrote: »
    If you have a mixer tap put your hand under it to block it and turn it on 50/50 hot/cold

    Tried this and it doesn't seem to have solved it. I had reasonably good pressure in the kitchen tap for a while but it eventually dried up again.


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