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Moving hot press

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  • 30-01-2017 11:54am
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 97 ✭✭


    Hi guys,

    I bought a bungalow with a small and old hot water cylinder, it needs replacing.
    I was thinking of moving it up in the attic, that will give me a bit more storage room downstairs as the house is quite small. At the moment in the attic I have the black plastic cold water tank and a metal small one that I guess is for the heating. Everything is wrapped with insulation making the whole thing very messy.
    Can anybody advise on what type of tank I should get? Maybe one that does everything, hot and cold?
    I understand that there will be an issue with the gravity and a pump will be needed (os so I have been told..)

    Thanks


Comments

  • Hosted Moderators Posts: 3,496 ✭✭✭DGOBS


    Your best bet would be have a plumber out to assess what you want and need.

    One possibility, would be to fit a combi boiler, this would do your heating give you hot water on demand,and eliminate the need for all the attic tanks and the hotpress.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,391 ✭✭✭dathi


    DGOBS wrote: »
    Your best bet would be have a plumber out to assess what you want and need.

    One possibility, would be to fit a combi boiler, this would do your heating give you hot water on demand,and eliminate the need for all the attic tanks and the hotpress.
    building regs tgd,s says you must have a storage tank

    1.3 The cold water supply to the kitchen sink should
    be taken directly from the service pipe supplying
    water to the dwelling; the cold water supply to the
    bath or shower and the washbasin and to other
    appliances in the dwelling should be from a cold
    water storage cistern. The bath, shower, washbasin,
    and sink should also have a piped supply of hot
    water, which may be from a central source or from a
    unit water heater.


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,510 ✭✭✭Wheety


    We have a combi boiler which meant we were able to get rid of the hotpress/hot water cylinder but we still have a cold water tank in the attic.


  • Registered Users Posts: 97 ✭✭Yanu


    After a consultation with a plumber, I'm keeping the cold water tank and have the hot water one beside it. Everything in the attic. Only thing is that it would probably need to be pressurised so a pump might be necessary


  • Registered Users Posts: 33,769 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    Yanu wrote: »
    After a consultation with a plumber, I'm keeping the cold water tank and have the hot water one beside it. Everything in the attic. Only thing is that it would probably need to be pressurised so a pump might be necessary

    Will definitely need a pump it relies on gravity to feed it.if they are same or similar level gravity won't help


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  • Hosted Moderators Posts: 3,496 ✭✭✭DGOBS


    building regs tgd,s says you must have a storage tank

    1.3 The cold water supply to the kitchen sink should
    be taken directly from the service pipe supplying
    water to the dwelling; the cold water supply to the
    bath or shower and the washbasin and to other
    appliances in the dwelling should be from a cold
    water storage cistern. The bath, shower, washbasin,
    and sink should also have a piped supply of hot
    water, which may be from a central source or from a
    unit water heater.

    Says 'should' so if you provide an equivalent or better means it satisfies regulations IMO.
    Regulations are always behind, and never prevent technical progress.

    Yes you can install a combi with a break tank, but kind of defeats the purpose.

    OP, glad you got sorted.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,391 ✭✭✭dathi


    DGOBS wrote: »
    Says 'should' so if you provide an equivalent or better means it satisfies regulations IMO.
    Regulations are always behind, and never prevent technical progress.

    Yes you can install a combi with a break tank, but kind of defeats the purpose.

    OP, glad you got sorted.

    wasn't commenting on the combi but on the fact you were advocating removing the attic storage tank which is required to provide water to the cold water in bathrooms and you have to comply with 1.6 The cold water storage cistern should have an
    actual capacity of not less than 212 litres in the case
    of a dwelling containing up to three bedrooms and an
    actual capacity of not less than 340 litres in the case
    of a dwelling containing four or more bedrooms.


  • Hosted Moderators Posts: 3,496 ✭✭✭DGOBS


    Hi Daithi, not going to argue to point with you mate.

    But the term 'should' indicates best practice, and doesn't rule out an alternative method.
    I see many installations without cold water storage and combi boilers, and others with unvented cylinders.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,391 ✭✭✭dathi


    DGOBS wrote: »
    Hi Daithi, not going to argue to point with you mate.

    But the term 'should' indicates best practice, and doesn't rule out an alternative method.
    I see many installations without cold water storage and combi boilers, and others with unvented cylinders.

    the technical guidance document is not about "best practice"it is the prima fascia method of complying with the building regs which is a legal requirement . it doesn't preclude using an other method which is as good as the tgd,s but the installer using another method must be able to provide document evidence to prove compliance. or else the installation does not comply with building regs


  • Registered Users Posts: 9,776 ✭✭✭antoinolachtnai


    Yanu, are you going to end up with a pressurised hot water tank? This is certainly feasible, but it is important that the tank is easily accessible and that it is regularly serviced. This is also quite an expensive setup. You should also consider whether noise from the pump will be acceptable. It might make sense to locate the pump away from the living area.


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  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,233 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    dathi wrote: »
    the technical guidance document is not about "best practice"it is the prima fascia method of complying with the building regs which is a legal requirement . it doesn't preclude using an other method which is as good as the tgd,s but the installer using another method must be able to provide document evidence to prove compliance. or else the installation does not comply with building regs

    This isn't me looking for an argument, just information. You seem to be well up on this stuff. Do you know if in the case outlined, "should" should be interpreted the same as "must"?

    Please follow site and charter rules. "Resistance is futile"



  • Hosted Moderators Posts: 3,496 ✭✭✭DGOBS


    You don't comply with TDG, only regulations, hence 'should' allows you to achieve the regulation by an alternative method.
    TGD's are industry best practice suggested to achieve it


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,391 ✭✭✭dathi


    DGOBS wrote: »
    You don't comply with TDG, only regulations, hence 'should' allows you to achieve the regulation by an alternative method.
    TGD's are industry best practice suggested to achieve it

    correct but the designer or installer must be be able to show documentary proof of compliance if they deviate from the TGD,s


  • Hosted Moderators Posts: 3,496 ✭✭✭DGOBS


    Installed as per certified (CE marked) appliance in accordance with the manufacturers instructions.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,391 ✭✭✭dathi


    DGOBS wrote: »
    Installed as per certified (CE marked) appliance in accordance with the manufacturers instructions.
    and you will always find on the manufactures instructions something similar to this which is taken from ariston
    Benchmark places responsibilities on both manufacturers and installers. The purpose is to ensure that customers
    are provided with the correct equipment for their needs, that it is installed, commissioned and serviced in
    accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions by competent persons and that it meets the requirements of
    the appropriate Building Regulations.


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