Roof problem help !

badbuild

It's

Cerco

Photos would be really helpful. Picture worth 100 words or is it a 1000?
Just noticed you may not have enough posts to include pics.
Maybe someone can help!

the_pen_turner

notchs are a must.
what you mean about the tiles, that the way theyre suposed to be

badbuild

Cerco wrote: »

Photos would be really helpful. Picture worth 100 words or is it a 1000?
Just noticed you may not have enough posts to include pics.
Maybe someone can help!

It's all covered up anyway plastered and being used etc. A pitched roof ..

muffler

Get a local professional (engineer, building surveyor, technician or architect) to inspect the structure and prepare a written report outlining the defects and recommending whatever remedial works are necessary. Send a copy of that to whoever carried out the works and request them, in writing, to confirm that they will comply with the recommendations.

If that doesnt work take the report to a solicitor.

badbuild

muffler wrote: »

Get a local professional (engineer, building surveyor, technician or architect) to inspect the structure and prepare

iwillhtfu

badbuild wrote: »

Tiles are not staggered so that there is a joint half way over each tile. They are one directly over the other ..yes as they should be but not staggered . Ok notches a must but how can I fix it now?,

How is your roof not peeing in water?

Are the tiles seriously placed in a column? :eek: That would leave a gap from the ridge to the eaves of the roof. Also it would be quite easy for the wind to get under and lift up the tiles.

muffler

What about the mice?

badbuild

N

badbuild

A

iwillhtfu

badbuild wrote: »

They are lagan concrete tile. Rang manufacturer they said it's OK like that . Shouldn't b a problem. Just from a distance it's all lines if u know what I mean. Up 18mnths now never a drop of rain thank God

This kind of thing so I guess?

iwillhtfu

badbuild wrote: »

More like this

They must have some kind of hidden edge between the tile. I've never seen tiles like that laid that way but then my experience wouldn't be much.

I see from there website some kind of interlocking edge but all their samples have staggered tiles. It must work though as you say 18 months no leaks.

mickdw

if I understand correctly, you have rafters just left onto the corner of the wall plate.
That is a shoddy detail for numerous reasons and will likely cause problems.
It's also likely that this has caused a slightly uneven surface as there will be variation in the timber depths and sitting varying timber onto a perfectly true wallpaper means top surface is uneven. With the notching, the top can be kept flat and any variation is on the underside .
I don't know what kind of fixing you have a that point but it is a very bad and poorly secured detail compared to notching the timber to the wall plate.
There are some reasonable options available if you have not closed up ceiling internally.

badbuild

K

Cerco

The tiles are your first line of defence against rain. The second is the membrane under the tiles. This will keep the rain from penetrating if it gets through gaps in the tiles. The tiles look to me like they are interlocking so the they do overlap. Whether this is sufficient I will leave to the experts.

the_pen_turner

tiles are perfectly fitted.

rafters are a disaster waiting to happen.
get an engineer in asap. seriously its cowboy builder time


how to fix
i would strip off 4+ rows off the bottom (easily done)
then bolt all the joists to the rafters,
install a second set of collars to every rafter and bolt them as well
install threaded bar from one sde to the other to hold the roof together . every second rafter should be ok
if the timbers a 6x2 s i would get some 9x2s by 6 foot long and cut them so they create a birds mouth and fit in around the wall plate and the joists etc.
then glue and bolt the 9x2s onto every rafter



this is the minium i would be happy with if it was my house.

badbuild

the_pen_turner wrote: »

tiles are perfectly fitted.

rafters are a disaster waiting to happen.
get an engineer in asap. seriously its cowboy builder time


how to fix
i would strip off 4+ rows off the bottom (easily done)
then bolt all the joists to the rafters,
install a second set of collars to every rafter and bolt them as well
install threaded bar from one sde to the other to hold the roof together . every second rafter should be ok
if the timbers a 6x2 s i would get some 9x2s by 6 foot long and cut them so they create a birds mouth and fit in around the wall plate and the joists etc.
then glue and bolt the 9x2s onto every rafter



this is the minium i would be happy with if it was my house.

How does that work if everything is plastered internally? And glue?

the_pen_turner

badbuild wrote: »

How does that work if everything is plastered internally? And glue?

work from outside. thats the best part about tiles.
polyurithane glue

badbuild

the_pen_turner wrote: »

work

the_pen_turner

badbuild wrote: »

The thing is its a vaulted ceiling with rafters and collar ties ..not joists?

oh thats even worse

badbuild

the_pen_turner wrote: »

oh thats even worse

Great ! Il cry now then.

the_pen_turner

badbuild wrote: »

Great ! Il cry now then.

what size is the room.

mikeymouse

badbuild wrote: »

The thing is its a vaulted ceiling with rafters and collar ties ..not joists?

How are the rafters fixed to the top wallplate?

badbuild

the_pen_turner wrote: »

what size is the room.

15ft x 15ft

badbuild

mikeymouse wrote: »

How are the rafters fixed to the top wallplate?

Nailed on plate ..strapped inside from rafters to wall

the_pen_turner

i think you might need a series ofsomekind of steel a frame truss
problem it wouldd require takingall yhe tiles felt and battens off and would be expensive

the_pen_turner

how high is the vaulting above the wall plate height

mikeymouse

badbuild wrote: »

Nailed on plate ..strapped inside from rafters to wall

Sorry I meant the wall plate on the existing house , I'm assuming it's a lean to type extension.

badbuild

mikeymouse wrote: »

Sorry

badbuild

badbuild wrote: »

It's a single storey extension A roof off the kitchen like a sunroom really main house a standard 3 bed semi

Ridge just meeting window cill height of bedroom window on first floor

Alkers

You're looking at about 350e to get a structural engineer to come out and have a look and give an opinion. If he's happy, he will certify it and give you piece of mind. Don't bother with a surveyor, all they will do is recommend an engineer's inspection

badbuild

Thank you

TopTec

Reading this thread I am wondering when you will come to realise that the only way to be certain about this is to strip the roof and redo it. I would say it is almost more fiddly to try to correct the various cock ups than to start again.

Either way the internal ceiling plastering is going to require re-doing.

TT

badbuild

TT if u read the first post I am not in the position financially to rip it off and start over. Hence the reason I'm on boards. Thanks

massey265

badbuild wrote:

Thank you I'm off to cry myself to sleep now. Sorry I ever decided to go and build on. It's up 18mnths and no problem A carpenter today told me it's solid. But reading all these reviews I'm sick. Thanks all for help

Hi bad build, don't be taking this extreme advice here by some, no need to be worrying this much about a roof that hasn't budged in 18 months, it isn't good practice to not have birds mouth in rafters (notch) but the nails will hold for a long time and every thing is holding each other tight e.g. collars, lathes, plaster slab ect. Hope I help you from worrying.

eoinzy2000

massey265 wrote: »

Hi bad build, don't be taking this extreme advice here by some, no need to be worrying this much about a roof that hasn't budged in 18 months, it isn't good practice to not have birds mouth in rafters (notch) but the nails will hold for a long time and every thing is holding each other tight e.g. collars, lathes, plaster slab ect. Hope I help you from worrying.

Put in a ridge beam. Sorted. Couple of blocks off at gable. Slide it in, put on padstones and tidy up

Stone Deaf 4evr

badbuild wrote: »

Thank you
I'm off to cry myself to sleep now.
Sorry I ever decided to go and build on.
It's up 18mnths and no problem
A carpenter today told me it's solid.
But reading all these reviews I'm sick.
Thanks all for help

Not being funny, but you're upsetting yourself based on the opinions of strangers on the internet, of unverifiable qualification or experience, based on a couple of paragraphs of description by yourself.

The only way you'll put your mind at ease is by getting a professional in to have a look at it.
I'll put it to you this way, if you found a lump under your skin, would you rather people from the internet tell you it's probably nothing, or would you go and see a doctor?

badbuild

Thank you. I

eoinzy2000

badbuild wrote: »

Thank you. I need reassurance. I'm a woman and question everything. I've had so many views on it and have lost so much sleep from the stress of it. If I get an engineer how can they even see beyond the paint work etc and tiles.

Yes. Get an engineer, get them to look. Needs a ridge beam. That is your answer. With a ridge beam you can fix at ridge and then eaves spread is eliminated. Notching and strapping at wall plate is irrelevant then. At 2.25m rafter span on plan, your rafters would need to be prob 125x50 C16 at 400crs minimum. Thats assuming a 35degree pitch.

badbuild

eoinzy2000 wrote: »

Put in a ridge beam. Sorted. Couple of blocks off at gable. Slide it in, put on padstones and tidy up

Yes there is a ridge beam

eoinzy2000

badbuild wrote: »

Yes there is a ridge beam

Then your roof sounds structurally sound then. As long as its sized correctly. A steel beam?

Stone Deaf 4evr

badbuild wrote: »

Thank you. I need reassurance. I'm a woman and question everything. I've had so many views on it and have lost so much sleep from the stress of it. If I get an engineer how can they even see beyond the paint work etc and tiles.

Do you have any photos from when the build was being carried out? Lots of people take them purely for souvenirs / etc when builds are going on.
No engineer is going to be able to categorically stand over a job they didn't supervise, or give anything that will be definitive without opening up the ceiling to have a look at where the timbers land on the bricks.

If it were me who was asked to inspect it, I'd take into account the fact that it's been waterproof for the past year and half, then I'd look at the areas where the slabs meet the wall, areas over the window etc for any sign of cracking, movement etc.

18 months in, and with nothing showing, I'd be inclined to tell you not to worry.

badbuild

eoinzy2000 wrote: »

Then your roof sounds structurally sound then. As long as its sized correctly. A steel beam?

No timber

massey265

eoinzy2000 wrote:

Then your roof sounds structurally sound then. As long as its sized correctly. A steel beam?

No a roof off only this size doesn't need a steel beam on the ridge.

muffler

badbuild wrote: »

The thing is its a vaulted ceiling with rafters and collar ties ..not joists?

Drip feeding info into the thread isnt actually helping things.

1. Is this actually a vaulted ceiling in a standard apex or "A" type roof or is it a lean to roof?
2. Who designed/specified the timbers?
3. Had you details drawn up of the roof construction including the eaves detailing?
4. Why have you waited 18 months to express your concerns or is there something else you arent disclosing?
5. Given the shoddy roofing works are you sure that other structural elements are okay?

You arent going to find the solution to your problems here on an internet forum. If you are really concerned then you will need to open it up and have it checked by a professional.

badbuild

massey265 wrote: »

No a roof off only this size doesn't need a steel beam on the ridge.

What's your qualification ? If u don't mind me asking

massey265

badbuild wrote:

What's your qualification ? If u don't mind me asking

Pm sent

badbuild

massey265 wrote: »

Pm sent

Thanks Massey...

eoinzy2000

massey265 wrote: »

eoinzy2000 wrote:

Then your roof sounds structurally sound then. As long as its sized correctly. A steel beam?

No a roof off only this size doesn't need a steel beam on the ridge.

Doesnt have to be steel. Timber would be fine. 4.6m timber ridge beam is quite long. But saying a vaulted ceiling doesnt need support, even 4.6m wide, is a bit misleading. Id be careful saying such things.

mikeymouse

Badbuild ,Without all the details no one on here can tell you how best to proceed.
The best advice on here is to get proper advice; from a qualified engineer.
(not from anonymous people on the internet)
Whatever you have spent so far it worth spending whatever it costs to get the right advice.
If that advice is it's all fine. then the money is not wasted , you will have peace of mind.
If he recommends remedial work ,that will need to be done , for your own peace of mind.