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Best method to internally batten a steel shed?

  • 09-01-2017 12:19am
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 14,433 ✭✭✭✭ banie01


    Hey All,

    Just wondering what is the bestime way to internally batten a steeltech shed?
    The plan is to internally plasterboard and divide an 8mtr x 5mtr shed.
    Is it screwing wooden battens to the internal steel frame with self tapping screws? And framing out from there?
    Regarding the roof, is plasterboard an option here?

    As always and advice/input will be appreciated.


Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 30,654 ✭✭✭✭ listermint


    banie01 wrote: »
    Hey All,

    Just wondering what is the bestime way to internally batten a steeltech shed?
    The plan is to internally plasterboard and divide an 8mtr x 5mtr shed.
    Is it screwing wooden battens to the internal steel frame with self tapping screws? And framing out from there?
    Regarding the roof, is plasterboard an option here?

    As always and advice/input will be appreciated.

    Any point in emailing steeltech?

    I would have thought self tapers would make it leak therfore perhaps adhesive like tech7 or similar for battens would be more appropriate


  • Registered Users Posts: 14,433 ✭✭✭✭ banie01


    listermint wrote: »
    Any point in emailing steeltech?

    I would have thought self tapers would make it leak therfore perhaps adhesive like tech7 or similar for battens would be more appropriate

    Im waiting on an update from them.
    I was proposing self tappers in to the frame rather than the panels, as i wouldnt want to peirce the panels.

    Thanks.


  • Registered Users Posts: 107 ✭✭ sphinxicus


    banie01 wrote: »
    Im waiting on an update from them.
    I was proposing self tappers in to the frame rather than the panels, as i wouldnt want to peirce the panels.

    Thanks.

    Did you hear back from them and what did you do in the end? Looking to do the same myself. Timber bolted to internal frame, stud frame from that and then plywood sheets on top.

    Thanks


  • Registered Users Posts: 45 ✭✭✭ tommo22


    I done something similar a while ago. I used self-drilling and tapping TEK screws, get the timber to steel version, they are countersunk with no washer:

    https://www.fixfactory.ie/collections/tek-screws-facade-screws-timber-to-steel-tek-screws-wing-drills

    Easy enough to fix 2x2 battons along the top and bottom rails, then use 3x2 uprights at 400mm centres to take the plasterboard. Alternatively use 600mm centres and finish with 1/2 inch WBP plywood, use masonry paint to finish.


  • Registered Users Posts: 107 ✭✭ sphinxicus


    tommo22 wrote: »
    I done something similar a while ago. I used self-drilling and tapping TEK screws, get the timber to steel version, they are countersunk with no washer:

    https://www.fixfactory.ie/collections/tek-screws-facade-screws-timber-to-steel-tek-screws-wing-drills

    Easy enough to fix 2x2 battons along the top and bottom rails, then use 3x2 uprights at 400mm centres to take the plasterboard. Alternatively use 600mm centres and finish with 1/2 inch WBP plywood, use masonry paint to finish.

    That would deffo have been the quicker and simpler option that if i knew what i was really doing, i'm sure i would have done :P

    Instead i probably went a bit overkill and ended up buying a load of 2x4's and framing each panel with them. The 2x4's handily fit into the metal frame in certain areas so aids to stability/strength of the frame (at lest thats my thinking).

    I have some steel braces to attach the 2x4's to the frame in other areas which leaves space above them to run some electrics across the top and then vertically down to plug sockets. Plus i can use the 2x4's to mount heavy items that i need to hang.

    I've attached an image showing where I'm at now (they are just sitting in place and not attached to each other or the shed yet).



    I was going to prime/paint and attach some 11mm OSB to those 2x4's but perhaps 12mm marine ply would be better from a water resistance perspective?


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  • Registered Users Posts: 45 ✭✭✭ tommo22


    WBP will be fine, no need for marine ply. 1/2inch WBP is quite cheap and has a lovely finish.
    No need for primer or paint on the 2x4, the steel sheds are very reliable and well ventilated behind the plywood so moisture will not be an issue.
    Also, I just used weathershield masonry paint on the plywood, gave it 2 coats and looks fab. I originally wanted to paint it white so it will reflect light (making all areas of the shed nice and bright), but got magnolia coz it was on offer in woodies. It actually looks lovely in magnolia now, and in hindsight I reckon white paint would have had a very cold feel to it.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 390 ✭✭ tradesman


    +1 on the WBP. Also put another couple of vertical timbers between what you have already for support to the board. You can use 2" x 2" this time. If using WBP why not think of using Ronseal ultra tough hardglaze varnish - will give a nice finish to the WBP.


  • Registered Users Posts: 107 ✭✭ sphinxicus


    tradesman wrote: »
    +1 on the WBP. Also put another couple of vertical timbers between what you have already for support to the board.


    So a year later I have finished installing the frame for the WSB. (Had some health issues and had to rest up for months :( ). I've got my WSB sheets (12mm) and man its heavy. I had a boat load of 38mm KREG coarse thread screws left over from another project where is was using pocket hole joins that i was going to use to glue and screw the board to the wood frame but feeling the weight of the WSB im concerned that they wont be a strong enough hold. Do you think a screw every foot or so would be enough to hold it securely? Or should i be looking at something else? Didn't want to go buying a box of new wood screws if these are god enough.


    Thanks


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,379 ✭✭✭ BobbyT28


    Hi, I’m about to do my steeltech shed in plywood in the month or so. Would you mind linking the plywood you used and the screws you used to drill into the metal frame or did you drill them into the wooden batons you installed between the metal frame?

    Gonna paint the plywood and the wallpaper one end of the shed with brick affect wallpaper and hang a TV up for my pain cave (zwift)

    thanks in advance

    BobbyT28



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,379 ✭✭✭ BobbyT28


    Sorry just realised this is an old thread but plenty of great info. So sorry for bringing up a old thread.


    my floor is concrete in the shed. I was gonna just late heavy dury rubber squares on the ground and then plywood on walls so I can hang shelves and maybe some bikes.


    I would really appreciate if anyone could recommend flooring like this for a shed that will mostly be used for gym exercise and zwift but with the odd bit of diy stuff.


    thanks in advance

    BobbyT28



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