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Toyota Landcruiser Colorado SWB (90 Series)

  • 05-01-2017 2:26am
    #1
    laurpat
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 211 ✭✭



    I picked up a very clean 00 LC Colorado SWB. It has 199K Miles and is the 3.0 TD model. The jeep is incredibly tight and is on the button.

    I’ve it up on the lift and will be carrying out the following work over the coming days

    - Replacing worn lower ball joint and tracking arm (one side only)

    - Oil, Fuel and Air filter

    - Change Oils and Coolant

    - Change Gearbox & Diff fluids

    - Replace rear half shaft seal

    - Replace Front Fog lights as the current ones are filled with dirt

    - Replacing rear light cluster (upper) to offer brake and signal at eye level

    - Sealing the whole undercarriage. As it stands it’s the only that I have come across rust free

    Other work than I’m considering

    - Tyres. In reality I need 4 new tyres. My local garage is offering me Hifly A/T’s at €80 each fitted balanced and tracked. Are the Hifly worth getting? Any other recommendation on tyres?

    - Wheels. There is a small element of corrosion on the alloys, this need to be treated. Who and where should I go to get blasted / painted.

    - Replace Steering wheel. The current wheel is ravelling. What other wheel fits the LC? The other option is to get the current one reconditioned.

    - Seats . Is there a leather replacement that can be used in the LC 90 series?

    - Timing belt. As I do not have the history as to when the belt was changed, do I need to change water pump and timing belt. I understand there is a light on the dash but is it effective

    Any advice or other work that should be considered please do let me know…
    Thanks in advance


Comments

  • #2
    CJhaughey
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,907 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    T-belt lights are simple to change, in fact the dash T-Belt light reset takes longer to do than the belt change.
    Change all fluids, diff transfer etc, front diff especially should be changed more often than other due to its small capacity 1.2 litres and hot location.
    Don't bother with Hiflys, BF Goodrich ATKO are the best I ever used on my 90 series. last about 2x what other brands will last.
    Is it auto or manual?
    Auto's radiators leak where the ATF fluid is cooled in the radiator and the autobox gets contaminated with ATF and water.
    If its still OK, think about a separate ATF fluid cooler.
    Rad might need changing at that age, I did mine at 130 miles as the temp would rise on the motorway.
    I sold mine a few years ago with 275k on it and it was a tight sweet driver, the guy I sold it too is still driving it and loves it.


  • #3
    laurpat
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 211 ✭✭laurpat


    CJhaughey wrote: »
    r brands will last.
    Is it auto or manual?
    Auto's radiators leak where the ATF fluid is cooled in the radiator and the autobox gets contaminated with ATF and water.
    If its still OK, think about a separate ATF fluid cooler.
    Rad might need changing at that age, I did mine at 130 miles as the temp would rise on the motorway.

    It's a manual thankfully. Have been reading about the problems with the Auto box cooling system.

    Are intercoolers worth looking at?


  • #4
    CJhaughey
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,907 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    laurpat wrote: »
    It's a manual thankfully. Have been reading about the problems with the Auto box cooling system.

    Are intercoolers worth looking at?

    Yes, if you could find one.
    I had one lined up but didn't follow up on it.
    Jap imports probably easiest to get one out of.


  • #5
    CJhaughey
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,907 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    laurpat wrote: »
    It's a manual thankfully. Have been reading about the problems with the Auto box cooling system.

    Are intercoolers worth looking at?

    Yes, if you could find one.
    I had one lined up but didn't follow up on it.
    Jap imports probably easiest to get one out of.


  • #6
    TrailerBob
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,519 ✭✭✭TrailerBob


    At that mileage I would have a look over the following too.

    Steering rack bushes.. easy to change for poly bushes available from the UK despite what a dealer will tell you

    Rear calipers tend to seize up around that time.. easy change again.

    Corrosion on the rear bumper light clusters.. they are very exposed (I have all the upper lamps working and think they should all be that way!)

    I put an eBay stitch-on steering wheel cover when mine started crumbling and it's actually very good. Will spare the few quid for a recon at some stage.

    I would avoid cheap tyres for such a large vehicle. I run Michelin cross on mine at around the same as the BF Goodrich price wise.. €170 per tyre... but they are worth it. 85,000 miles from the rear two, 60,000 from the fronts, and superb handling in all conditions.

    You seem into the cruiser so I suggest you check out https://landcruiserclub.net/community/forums/

    A lot of UK based posters and a wealth of info from a friendly site.

    Other than that, enjoy cruiser driving, plenty of life in that one yet


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