Leaking pipe

budgemook

Hi,

While investigation a problem with my heating I found a leaking t shaped pipe in the wall which I assume leads upstairs to the radiators. It's only a slight drop but my wife said that it got much worse today when she had the heating on. There's a lot of rust on the pipe so I guess it's been there a long time (We just moved in). I tightened it this evening too tightly and the narrow nut thing snapped. A slight leak remains.

Can someone advise on how to fix this? I'm thinking that I should go to the hardware for new nuts and/or plumbing tape, turn off the water using the valve handle under the kitchen sink and then just put on the tape or new nuts.

I've attached a photo showing the drip and broken nut. Apologies for any incorrect terminology!

listermint

That's a blanking nut or blank.

Is there a shutoff valve on the black pipe? If so which side

Tom44

That is a (prehistoric vintage) pressure release safety valve for the heating.
Nothing anybody can fix.

Heating has to be drained and a new modern 1/2" 3bar safety valve fitted.

Cracked small ring is not important, it is just a locking nut to keep outer nut tightening in the one position on the spring.
Rust doesn't look bad.

budgemook

listermint wrote: »

That's a blanking nut or blank.

Is there a shutoff valve on the black pipe? If so which side

Thanks for the reply. The blank is the leaking nut is it? The thin one that broke is something else.

Not sure about shut off valve, attached a photo showing what I can see.

budgemook

Tom44 wrote: »

That is a (prehistoric vintage) pressure release safety valve for the heating.
Nothing anybody can fix.

Heating has to be drained and a new modern 1/2" 3bar safety valve fitted.

I see. Can you tell me a little bit about why?
(Just read your edit, thanks)

So just the valve needs replacing, not the pipes? I will replace that rusty pipe when I can but I just moved in and am a bit tight on cash.

Tom44

See my previous edit.




Ooops,
Second photo of rust is not great, but it takes a lot of rusting to get critical.
When and if your replacing pipes, alter pipe layout so that you have easy access to replace that pump if it's ever required.

budgemook

Tom44 wrote: »

See my edit.

Thanks again. Just wondering why I can't just replace the nut though? What causes these to leak in the first place?

Tom44

budgemook wrote: »

Thanks again. Just wondering why I can't just replace the nut though? What causes these to leak in the first place?

It's not a nut, it's part of the safety valve keeping a spring under compression that's keeping a solid brass washer in place thats the safety release.
Its not the nut that's leaking, its the seal.
Its not repairable, but if you want to try, feel free.

budgemook

Tom44 wrote: »

It's not a nut, it's part of the safety valve keeping a spring under compression that's keeping a solid brass washer in place thats the safety release.
Its not the nut that's leaking, its the seal.
Its not repairable, but if you want to try, feel free.

That makes sense. So the whole t shaped valve needs to come out and a new one in on just that pipe.

You mentioned draining the heating, is that a big job?

Tom44

budgemook wrote: »

That makes sense. So the whole t shaped valve needs to come out and a new one in on just that pipe.

You mentioned draining the heating, is that a big job?

T doesn't need replacing, just the complete brass bit with the nut.

Not the easiest DIY job draining an iron heating system, especially if things go wrong.
So the only advice I can give is call a plumber.

budgemook

Tom44 wrote: »

T doesn't need replacing, just the complete brass bit with the nut.

Not the easiest DIY job draining an iron heating system, especially if things go wrong.
So the only advice I can give is call a plumber.

Thank you very much for your helpful advice.