Why brass valves up in attic header tank?

Andy From Sligo

Can I just ask why brass side entry valves are used in the attic header tank and not the plastic ones with black plastic arms and white plastic valve head as used in the the older type toilet cisterns. Is it because the brass ones are more reliable or more resistant to cold temperatures in the attic I am wondering?

Also as a side note , our mains cold water pressure to the house is very poor. Even with the kitchen cold tap fully turned to on it doesn't come to no more that a fast trickle . I think someone was mentioning to me it was because the reservoir was just at the back of our housing estate and that there is no gravity there to make the mains water powerful. So our header tank in the attic takes some time to fill up indeed when someone pulls a toilet chain or washes in the bathroom sink . ultimately later on when finances are better I might consider a whole house pump to boost the mains as well as the pipes coming out of the header tank, i have heard the whole house pumps are very good for bostiing pressure, but until then , how about if I considered replacing the brass valve in the header tank in the attic with a standard plastic side entry ones you get for toilet cistern and use the correct valve insert for low pressure (I can never remember if its the red or white insert for low pressure) would that be any better than the brass one (quieter, and quicker filling)?

anthonyos

Your like my 3 year old son for asking questions

K.Flyer

Brass ball-cocks are high pressure units and should not be replaced with cheaper inferior plastic ones, irrespective of the quality of the incoming mains water pressure.
Is your landlord happy with you making any of these proposed alterations to the plumbing system in His/ Her house?
Are you personally insured to cover losses in case anything was to go wrong as a result of any work you carry out in their house?
The reason I ask these questions is because the questions that you are asking here show your lack of knowledge, and, I presume, lack of experience,
If it was your own house, fine, knock yourself out, but its not, therefore you have no right to touch anything, especially if you don't know what you are doing.
Please take this as friendly advice ftom someone who has to deal with hundreds of rented properties and the fall out of inexperienced people messing with plumbing and heating systems.
If you want to convert the entire house to a pressurised system, firstly, you will need Written permission from your landlord.
Then you will need a contractor who knows what to do and is experienced in the installation of unvented cylinders.
Its can be expensive, you will need to agree with your landlord about who pays for what.
If you feel there are issues with the plumbing system, get in touch with your landlord and ask about having things rectified.

hatchman

Op are you renting ? I don't see any reference to owning or renting in your post.

Andy From Sligo

K.Flyer wrote:

Brass ball-cocks are high pressure units and should not be replaced with cheaper inferior plastic ones, irrespective of the quality of the incoming mains water pressure. Is your landlord happy with you making any of these proposed alterations to the plumbing system in His/ Her house? Are you personally insured to cover losses in case anything was to go wrong as a result of any work you carry out in their house? The reason I ask these questions is because the questions that you are asking here show your lack of knowledge, and, I presume, lack of experience, If it was your own house, fine, knock yourself out, but its not, therefore you have no right to touch anything, especially if you don't know what you are doing. Please take this as friendly advice ftom someone who has to deal with hundreds of rented properties and the fall out of inexperienced people messing with plumbing and heating systems. If you want to convert the entire house to a pressurised system, firstly, you will need Written permission from your landlord. Then you will need a contractor who knows what to do and is experienced in the installation of unvented cylinders. Its can be expensive, you will need to agree with your landlord about who pays for what. If you feel there are issues with the plumbing system, get in touch with your landlord and ask about having things rectified.

Dont worry, I won't be changing anything without permission first. I am just trying out views, seeing what people think and see if I can get any ideas or what is the best way to go.

Calahonda52

OP boosting the mains is verboten.

Andy From Sligo

Calahonda52 wrote: »

OP boosting the mains is verboten.

forbidden by the authorities?

tricky D

Mains pressure isn't constant which means plastic fittings are much more prone to fatigue than brass. If a plastic fitting is used for a mains connection it is more likely to fail when pressure is highest which is around 6am when you are probably asleep.

Story: This happened to me in my last rental where the downstairs toilet was connected directly to the mains with plastic but very fortunately I was up at the time. If I hadn't well there was a shop below with at least a high 6-figures worth of stock. Had to get an emergency plumber at a cost of €400 which is fairly standard for 6 in the morning because the cut-off was in a non-standard location ie. I couldn't find it. Landlord initially refused to pay until her handyman pointed out the awful plumbing, that I'd saved the carpets and the stock below.

Wearb

tricky D wrote: »

Story: This happened to me in my last rental where the downstairs toilet was connected directly to the mains with plastic but very fortunately I was up at the time. If I hadn't well there was a shop below with a at least a high 6-figures worth of stock. Had to get an emergency plumber at a cost of €400 which is fairly standard because the cut-off was in a non-standard location ie. I couldn't find it. Landlord initially refused to pay until her handyman pointed out the awful plumbing, that I'd saved the carpets and the stock below.

Would it not have just flowed down the toilet bowel?

tricky D

No the failed connection was at the side of the toilet cistern and the water was spraying around a good bit due to the mains pressure.

Andy From Sligo

Andy From Sligo wrote: »

...our mains cold water pressure to the house is very poor. Even with the kitchen cold tap fully turned to on it doesn't come to no more that a fast trickle . I think someone was mentioning to me it was because the reservoir was just at the back of our housing estate and that there is no gravity there to make the mains water powerful. So our header tank in the attic takes some time to fill up indeed when someone pulls a toilet chain or washes in the bathroom sink . ...

How about this I just found, its on UK site its a low pressure brass 1/2" valve

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Plumbing/d20/Toilet+Fittings/sd2835/Float+Valve+Part+1/p31280



Is 1/2" OK for Ireland or do we use 15mm pipe and compression fittings here?
Thanks

Andy From Sligo

All sorted now,

I took out the high pressure white cone out of the existing brass fitting in the header tank and replaced it with a low pressure red cone , now the header tank seems to fill up quicker now. - I don't know whether I should have replaced the washer or turned it around, because there was a dent/dimple made by the white cone, but ah sure I do that another time. It all seems to shut off the water from the valve at the right level anyway.

At least I didnt have to end up buying a whole brass (low pressure) fitting. I knew these white plastic toilet cistern valves had these red and white cones but i didnt think these brass header tank ballcock valves had these adaptors in them also.

K.Flyer

No they didn't come with alternative cones, just ensure that when the tank is full that the valve shuts off fully. I have seen where people have done as you have and the rubber seal was not large enough to fully cover the opening on the end of the orifice and it kept leaking.

Andy From Sligo

K.Flyer wrote: »

No they didn't come with alternative cones, just ensure that when the tank is full that the valve shuts off fully. I have seen where people have done as you have and the rubber seal was not large enough to fully cover the opening on the end of the orifice and it kept leaking.

ok thanks i will keep an eye on it.

I like the Idea of these ones you get in the toilet cisterns where the valve is full on open when the cistern is filling up and then shuts cleanly right off only at the end rather than 'dribbling' like these older ballcock valves do towards the end of filling up the cistern/tank - and I am pretty sure I saw once one designed for the header tank but I dont know where I saw it now. Maybe it was homebase or b&q or something or online.

K.Flyer

Fluidmaster Pro-75-B

Andy From Sligo

K.Flyer wrote: »

Fluidmaster Pro-75-B

that was it , thanks. - Shall have to start saving me pennies up ...

hatchman

Andy From Sligo wrote:

that was it , thanks. - Shall have to start saving me pennies up ...

Do they are well worth it !! That constant dribbling noise drives me crazy ! 21st century and Victorian plumbing still being installed !!

Andy From Sligo

hatchman wrote: »

Do they are well worth it !! That constant dribbling noise drives me crazy ! 21st century and Victorian plumbing still being installed !!

I was going to say also that the dribbling noise at then end drives me up the wall too but then I thought someone might reply that " I have nothing else to worry about!" - so I declined

£16.49 on Amazon UK - not bad price really, they used to be fierce price. Come down a lot