Stove/oil heating for a house

mashed13

Hi lads,

So I'm looking at the heating options for 80sq/m bungalow in the country, I've no access to gas mains and currently ongoing full renovation.

My thoughts were on the double heating system oil/stove as I always have quite a bit of wood to burn and would love aesthetics of the stove

Can I connect both stove and oil boiler to the same rad and underfloor heating system, without much trouble?

As well I was thinking about some kind of hot air heating (not sure how you call it) they do have them in the states, literally there would be hot air coming from the stove through the ducts underneath the floor to each of the rooms. If its feasible at all...:rolleyes: advice and thought on this much appreciated (or I might just stick with the first option...)

Thanks

OwenM

mashed13 wrote: »

Hi lads,

So I'm looking at the heating options for 80sq/m bungalow in the country, I've no access to gas mains and currently ongoing full renovation.

My thoughts were on the double heating system oil/stove as I always have quite a bit of wood to burn and would love aesthetics of the stove

Can I connect both stove and oil boiler to the same rad and underfloor heating system, without much trouble?

As well I was thinking about some kind of hot air heating (not sure how you call it) they do have them in the states, literally there would be hot air coming from the stove through the ducts underneath the floor to each of the rooms. If its feasible at all...:rolleyes: advice and thought on this much appreciated (or I might just stick with the first option...)

Thanks

I have a stove and an oil boiler connected to the same rads, it's quite common but I don't think you can do this with UHF because you cannot regulate the heat from the stove properly. Your oil boiler has a thermostat which stops it firing when the set temperature is reached but your solid fuel burner can only reduce the airflow, it will always be emitting some heat until the fuel supply runs out, I could be wrong and if I am I would love to know how it works.

Calahonda52

What is the energy demand calculation for the renovated house telling you need?
What is the expected hot water demand profile looking like?
Any renewable component?
When you say full reno, how full and at what stage is it?

quietsailor

mashed13 wrote: »

As well I was thinking about some kind of hot air heating (not sure how you call it) they do have them in the states, literally there would be hot air coming from the stove through the ducts underneath the floor to each of the rooms. If its feasible at all...:rolleyes: advice and thought on this much appreciated (or I might just stick with the first option...)

Thanks

What your talking about these is a ventilation with heat recovery system. Go to the construction forum here on boards and there will be good information on it,

Calahonda52

quietsailor wrote: »

What your talking about these is a ventilation with heat recovery system. Go to the construction forum here on boards and there will be good information on it,

Not quite quietsailor:D for what OP had described, which I think is blend of fiction and fact re what happens in US.
However the MHRV suggestion is thoughtful

mashed13

quietsailor
This system may be just the one I was talking about, thanks.
From what I've found so far it seems like budget wise MVHR might even work out cheaper to install(not talking about running it) than conventional oil central heating.

Calahonda52
I don't think I'll be able to answer all your questions
but As of full reno I was talking about, its just to keep in mind that there will be no extra costs/work involved in whatever system I decide to put in place and at least for a moment there is no plan to install any renewable sources, I may be looking into solar few years down the road.

OwenM
How is that working out few thoughts on it would be cool :rolleyes: and what do you mean by UHF?

Calahonda52

Mashed, no worries re info: it would help with the discussion here.
Just on this
This system may be just the one I was talking about, thanks.

You need to be careful about circulating hot air heated directly from around a flue leaving a solid fuel stove as there is a risk of CO as well as dust etc.

If it is run through a heat exchanger, like in the MHVR then fine.

CO is Carbon Monoxide, the silent killer.

UHF is ultra high frequency, except in this case it is under floor heating !

Keep well, signing off thread

OwenM

mashed13 wrote: »

quietsailor
This system may be just the one I was talking about, thanks.
From what I've found so far it seems like budget wise MVHR might even work out cheaper to install(not talking about running it) than conventional oil central heating.

Calahonda52
I don't think I'll be able to answer all your questions
but As of full reno I was talking about, its just to keep in mind that there will be no extra costs/work involved in whatever system I decide to put in place and at least for a moment there is no plan to install any renewable sources, I may be looking into solar few years down the road.

OwenM
How is that working out few thoughts on it would be cool :rolleyes: and what do you mean by UHF?

Thanks Calahonda, I did meant to write UFH not UHF.

It works great. I can still set my timer to kick the oil on and avoid coming home to a cold house, and then light the stove if I want. The stove is definitely cheaper to run though you do need a decent sized shed for wood and be prepared to fill it in April / May with split logs for a minimum of one summer. Green/wet firewood is a complete waste of time and it has taken me a while to find suppliers that reliably have wood under 20% moisture. I burned about 9m3 of wood last year. Filling the shed is work but I need the exercise.

If you have a largish open plan area you could also consider a dry stove, it would use a lot less fuel and no plumbing involved, trv's on the rads would switch off those rads a while after you light it and your oil boiler would keep the rads in the bedrooms ticking over.

mashed13

OwenM wrote: »

Thanks Calahonda, I did meant to write UFH not UHF.

It works great. I can still set my timer to kick the oil on and avoid coming home to a cold house, and then light the stove if I want. The stove is definitely cheaper to run though you do need a decent sized shed for wood and be prepared to fill it in April / May with split logs for a minimum of one summer. Green/wet firewood is a complete waste of time and it has taken me a while to find suppliers that reliably have wood under 20% moisture. I burned about 9m3 of wood last year. Filling the shed is work but I need the exercise.

If you have a largish open plan area you could also consider a dry stove, it would use a lot less fuel and no plumbing involved, trv's on the rads would switch off those rads a while after you light it and your oil boiler would keep the rads in the bedrooms ticking over.

Storage space should be no problem.. Of the topic may I ask how much you would be paying for a 1m3 of wood ?

currants

I get 2 m3 for 349 delivered, kiln dried, great quality wood. I did a bit of looking during the Summer and couldn't source decent air dried hardwood anywhere. I've a big shed so have cherry/apple drying in there for next year we took down out of family gardens. Decent seasoned softwood could be found but it was almost as expensive as the imported kiln dried and would give much less heat. If your rooms are the typical Irish small layout rather than open plan I'd look into another stove in the hall and an overhead fan that is reversible to direct the heat downwards, opening the bedroom doors would take the icy chill off but not good if you've young children or elderly people in the house.

Remember if your kitchen/living room is open plan you're not supposed to run a cooker extractor in the same room as a stove. You can put your airvents for a stove over 5kw into a suspended timber floor -wish I'd done that rather than knocking a hole in the wall, and if your transoms open you're in business for moving the air around the house. If I had open transoms I'd take out the glass and fit a small corner fan (amazon or ebay) but as it stands we just open the door and the heat is quickly dispersed to the freezing, drafty hall and takes the chill out there.

antoinolachtnai

349 euros a tonne is about 8.5c/kWh. It is not particularly cheap. You also have to dispose of ash and there is time and trouble for transport and storage.

currants

I agree burning wood is not cheap but it suits us as its much cleaner than even the smokeless coal. That was including delivery, wood ash, unlike coal, can be spread around the garden. Like the op I live in the countryside so storage space is not a problem. There really is an art to burning wood if you want to get the most out of it but if you just want to load the stove and forget about it for 5/6 hours then coal is the way to go.
I enjoy doing a bit of splitting too, its good exercise.

OwenM

antoinolachtnai wrote: »

349 euros a tonne is about 8.5c/kWh. It is not particularly cheap. You also have to dispose of ash and there is time and trouble for transport and storage.

Interested to know how did you calculate 1m3 of wood weighs a tonne and how did you arrive at 8.5c ?

Tks

OwenM

OwenM wrote: »

Interested to know how did you calculate 1m3 of wood weighs a tonne and how did you arrive at 8.5c ?

Tks

Typical density of hardwood @20% is about 650kg which is about 54c/kg.
Typical output from a kg is about 4.5kWh - 12c/kWh - now that's expensive.

I'm bulk buying air dried larch @ 17% moisture for €65/m3 -- 550kg - 12c/kg
I'm bulk buying air hardwood @ 20% moisture for €95/m3 -- 650kg - 15c/kg

Averaging about 3.1c/kw - a boiler stove at 75% efficiency gives me a delivered(consumed) cost of 4.1c/kWh. Kiln dried timber is fine for a display beside the chimney breast and looks pretty but for space heating it is an absolute rip off.

currants

Where are you getting the hardwood from Owen? I'd be very interested in using your supplier.

OwenM

currants wrote: »

Where are you getting the hardwood from Owen? I'd be very interested in using your supplier.

There are plenty on Donedeal.ie, it's a bit hit and miss but if you tell them you have your own moisture meter it does tend to put some of the messers off. Sometimes you have to accept that a fella with a truck load of wood at 26/28% has made a reasonable effort to dry it and I won't turn him away so that is why I stock the shed in April and give it another season to dry.

Some of my saved ads:
https://www.donedeal.co.uk/heating-for-sale/best-burn-firewood-ampturf-all-year-round-supply-/12244332

https://www.donedeal.co.uk/heating-for-sale/firewood-for-sale/14018928


I haven't bought off the second link yet and my softwood supplier doesn't advertise, sorry.