Whats the best finish for spalted beech

Hi all.

I'm making a mantel clock out of spalted beech (not turned) and I'm wondering what the best finish would be for it?

The wood is highly figured both in terms of the spalting and the grain so I'd like to make sure what ever I put on will not obscure this and will be durable.

Cheers.

Double Barrel

My tuppence,
I would use cellulose sanding sealer diluted down 50% with cellulose thinners.
2-3 good coats. Cutting each one back with 600 grit.

Then I would buff this with a cloth.

I like Renaissance wax. It is a micro-crystalline wax which was developed by the British museum to use on their artifact's.

It is not cheap but you apply 3 x very thin coats and buff by hand.

Liberon paste wax would be just fine also.

Good luck

Double Barrel

Double Barrel wrote: »

My tuppence,
I would use cellulose sanding sealer diluted down 50% with cellulose thinners.
2-3 good coats. Cutting each one back with 600 grit.

Then I would buff this with a cloth.

I like Renaissance wax. It is a micro-crystalline wax which was developed by the British museum to use on their artifact's.

It is not cheap but you apply 3 x very thin coats and buff by hand.

Liberon paste wax would be just fine also.

Good luck

Thanks for the reply,

In relation to the Liberon paste wax, would their beeswax finish also work, as that's available to me locally?

I was also told to try applying a coat or two of boiled linseed oil then finishing off with a coat of beeswax but I'm not sure if the BLO would darken the wood too much.

woodturner

Most oils will darken the wood as they tend to soak in. An acrylics lacquer may look better.

masseyno9

DubInMeath wrote: »

Thanks for the reply,

In relation to the Liberon paste wax, would their beeswax finish also work, as that's available to me locally?

I was also told to try applying a coat or two of boiled linseed oil then finishing off with a coat of beeswax but I'm not sure if the BLO would darken the wood too much.

Friend of mine who makes furniture here in Canada (I've helped him out from time to time) uses a boiled and cooled mixture of linseed oil and beeswax to finish almost everything from chopping boards, to serving platters, ornaments and even dining tables. I find it gives just the right balance between shiny and matte, while enhancing grain and providing adequate protection. He makes a big batch in a pot on the stove and gives a tiny jar of it with every item or a big jar with furniture pieces.
Look at campandcity.com  for a few photos. Hope this is ok. I don't expect there is really a viable market for his stuff in Ireland due to shipping etc. so hoping nobody thinks I'm advertising! Can get more details on what the mixture is if you like.

Grueller

masseyno9 wrote: »

Friend of mine who makes furniture here in Canada (I've helped him out from time to time) uses a boiled and cooled mixture of linseed oil and beeswax to finish almost everything from chopping boards, to serving platters, ornaments and even dining tables. I find it gives just the right balance between shiny and matte, while enhancing grain and providing adequate protection. He makes a big batch in a pot on the stove and gives a tiny jar of it with every item or a big jar with furniture pieces.
Look at campandcity.com  for a few photos. Hope this is ok. I don't expect there is really a viable market for his stuff in Ireland due to shipping etc. so hoping nobody thinks I'm advertising! Can get more details on what the mixture is if you like.

Please do get more details if possible. Pm if you would rather. I love hearing about these home brews. Thanks in advance.

woodturner

woodturner wrote: »

Most oils will darken the wood as they tend to soak in. An acrylics lacquer may look better.

Thanks for your reply. I wouldn't mind a little darkening of the piece as long as the spalting is not obscured.

I've used Danish oil in the past and thought it would be to dark, but I've never used BLO, hence the question, but I might try some on a scrap piece.

In relation to acrylic lacquer I've read that if applied in high humidity that it can leave moisture spots on the wood. Given that I work in an old garage with a tin roof it could be an issue, but I've never used them so can't confirm.