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Cooker wiring question

  • 22-11-2016 5:16pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 21,499 ✭✭✭✭


    I'm thinking of replacing an existing free-standing electric cooker with a new one, and pulled out the old one to take a look at how it was connected. Apart from years of dust, dead spiders and general muck, after a bit of cleaning I was confronted with this ...

    ok0953.jpg


    2sa0b60.jpg

    Is this a normal, usual, safe and/or legal way of connecting up a cooker, or should the cable, 6mm t+e as far as I can tell, which should be OK, have been chased into the wall and terminated in a cooker terminal box, and then another, maybe heatproof cable from there to the cooker, or doesn't it make any difference?

    The other concern is the burnt looking patch on the wall, which lines up with what looks like some kind of exhaust vent for the main oven on the back of the cooker, which also looks pretty manky, see below ...

    jaz485.jpg

    Obviously I'll give the whole wall a good tidy up and repaint before getting the new cooker put in, but what could have caused that? It looks heat related rather than just down to grease and cooking fumes from the oven, and I'd assume any oven would comply with any regulations there might be concerning distance from the rear wall of any such vent? It's a block dividing wall by the way.


Comments

  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators, Regional East Moderators Posts: 12,641 Mod ✭✭✭✭2011


    Looks like an issue with the old cooker to me. If possible I like to put lugs onto the cooker cable and other high current appliances when terminating them. This provides a more solid connection.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,054 ✭✭✭Tuco88


    The way its done there is not uncommon in older installations.The less cable exposed the better. I'd imagine that if chased down to a cooker conection unit would be the right job. They used to spec a 4mm^2 heat resistant flex from a joint box (instead of the C.C.U) one time.

    You you get a seprate hob and oven you have a different kettle of fish.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 21,499 ✭✭✭✭Alun


    Thanks, it just looks a bit shoddy to me that's all, but if it's OK I'll leave it. It's a bungalow built in 1995, and while some aspects of it were done well, including the plumbing, the electrics aren't great from a tidiness point of view.

    The current cable is a bit on the long side, so I'll probably shorten it a little when the new one goes in.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 21,499 ✭✭✭✭Alun


    2011 wrote: »
    If possible I like to put lugs onto the cooker cable and other high current appliances when terminating them. This provides a more solid connection.
    Thanks, are these a standard width for cooker terminal blocks do you know? the new cooker is likely to be an Electrolux one if that makes any difference.


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators, Regional East Moderators Posts: 12,641 Mod ✭✭✭✭2011


    Alun wrote: »
    Thanks, are these a standard width for cooker terminal blocks do you know?
    No such thing as standard :)

    Lugs are cheap. All you need to know is:
    1) Conductor size (6sq.)
    2) Hole size.
    3) Do I have a suitable crimper?
    4) Am I sufficiently competent?

    the new cooker is likely to be an Electrolux one if that makes any difference.
    No :)


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