Early 1800 farm house

Andrewcampbell

Hey folks, just thought I'd come on here to I suppose document, help if I can and also ask for help as in regards doing up what will be my partner,myself and my daughters home hopefully living in it this time next year. I've been doing all the work myself, just evenings and weekends, when we got the keys, I had to gut the place out from top to bottom, as regards furniture, inch lats an plaster off the first floor ceiling, remove studding up stairs and taken down the chimney to the ground, including the wall it was built in, joisting the whole lot came out, then I dug out the floor, put down radon and insulation, plumbing pipes, poured the the floor and rebuilt the wall and back to back fire place and chimney is up to jut under the rafter, will be a reclaimed brick for the finish or something similar. My Windows where wooden sash, single glazed obviously, I have my windows ordered off Munster, triple, upvc, I'm ready to start studding out my external walls now, they, like most houses built then are 500mm thick, I was intending on building my stud up on the ground, with 3 by 2's and putting 8mm ply on the back of it between my stud and existing wall, and form a cavity of about 25 to 30mm, fill with 80mm rigid insulation and then a 50mm insulated slab, then my windows will have trickle vents and I will be putting atleast six vents in the roof, fix up the slates patch up the lime render on the under side of them and spray foam between the rafters, just wondering if that would combat condensation or should I do more. Thanks. Andrew

BryanF

You should be doing a lot more to avoid mould, rot, leading to health issues

Your using non-breathable materials in an 1800 house.

I don't really no where to start.

Are getting any advice on the specification?

Andrewcampbell

Because I'm setting up a stud wall on the exterior walls it's effectively a house within a house, no old walls will be inside the stud work, would this not help combat mould and the likes? Andrew

Andrewcampbell

And also I will be treating timber, and as regards mould, and even moisture there is not a bit in it, I know it's hard to believe but there is no dampness in the house whatsoever, Andrew

BryanF

You need a vapour barrier taped and sealed on the inside. Is the wall lime plastered inside and out?

I recommend a breathable construction.

Andrewcampbell

I forgot to state that I will be putting a vapour barrier, and yes, it's lime plastered inside and out

BryanF

I would Avoid ply and foam/ rigid insulation

onrail

BryanF wrote: »

Are getting any advice on the specification?

Looking at doning something similar down my way. Any idea of a suitable professional for such a job? Have already posted in the sticky thread. Cheers

Andrewcampbell

So would you suggest spray foaming it all, as in stud work?

BryanF

Andrewcampbell wrote: »

So would you suggest spray foaming it all, as in stud work?

No

I'd probavly go with external insulation

Or hemplime

wayoutwest

Is'nt the standard external insulation non-breathable ?-if so, then like fitting plastic and PIR internally- the walls won't be able to shed any rising damp.
This looks like an interesting way of constructing breathable external insulation from U.K lime company
images-3.jpeg

Andrewcampbell

Before I put in my floor, I took out the first row of stone and put a block on flat and dpc in to stop rising damp, if the house is well insulated, ventilated and heated there should be no problems arising, should there? A lad that works along side me, he knows of a house renovated in Connemara, the same, an old stone house, he said the contractor put polythene on the walls and then fixed a slab, would the polythene not cause the walls to sweat

BryanF

wayoutwest wrote: »

Is'nt the standard external insulation non-breathable ?-if so, then like fitting plastic and PIR internally- the walls won't be able to shed any rising damp.
This looks like an interesting way of constructing breathable external insulation from U.K lime company
images-3.jpeg

There are breathable Ewi systems suitable for old stone walls

Internal insulation is not continuous your left with weak points at all internal wall/ceiling/floor junctions

BryanF

Andrewcampbell wrote: »

an old stone house, he said the contractor put polythene on the walls and then fixed a slab, would the polythene not cause the walls to sweat

Think due point (interstitial condensation)

I would not recommend this approach.