Flash Programmer 31031 Replacement

smjm

Hello All

I have an old FP124 Flash Programmer, functionally equivalent to the current Flash 31031 http://www.plumbingproducts.ie/time-clocks-ireland/3306-flash-31031-large-time-clock.html

It still works fine for 'constant' and 'off', but I can't use the 'timer' as the little hand on the clock won't turn.

I was going to buy a new 31031 and get someone who knows what they're doing to swap them, but I noticed that the old wiring diagram shows five wiring points - N N L 1 2 - and the new one only has four - N N L 1. Would this be a problem at all? Or would it be simpler to just switch the clocks between the new and old units, i.e. is the clock wired at the back or does it simply slot in to a backplate?

(Also, out of interest, the clock has a 'manual override knob' in the bottom left hand corner. Any idea what this actually does?)

Any help appreciated.

agusta

You can swap the new clock onto to old backplate if it is the same model. The N N L 1 2 is the wiring diagram for Flash 31032 [ FP 224 ] If not sure you could post a picture of the time clock

smjm

Thanks for the reply. I've attached a picture of the clock. Although it hasn't got a model number visible, the old wiring diagram I have is for models FP1, FP2 and FP3. I'm guessing that my very basic timer is the FP1, (which is equivalent to the newer 31031?), but I'm open to correction.

Anyway, the old wiring diagram shows 'N N L 1 2' for all the old FP models, whereas I gathered from a couple of sources, including a Boards post with the same problem, http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=67550111, that the 31031 has only 'N N L 1'.

I've attached a picture of the FP1 wiring diagram. Sorry it's a bit tatty, but it's very old! Maybe that has something to do with the confusion? The boiler is from 1986ish. The timer likely the same.

It might be that '2' on my old timer isn't used at all, but I'm too scared to pull the thing apart to check!

agusta

It would be best to buy the new timer and compare it to the old time clock when you remove it.if they are the same you can fit the new clock to the old back plate in a couple of mins

smjm

agusta wrote: »

It would be best to buy the new timer and compare it to the old time clock when you remove it.if they are the same you can fit the new clock to the old back plate in a couple of mins

Okay, that's grand. Do you know if there are any wires attached directly to the clock itself though, or is it simply a matter of unscrewing and pulling the old one out, and pushing the new one back in, presuming they look the same on comparison?

agusta

There is no wires connected directly to the clock.Unscrew the two screws and then gently push in the plastic lug on the side of the clock and the timer clock will come off the back plate

smjm

agusta wrote: »

There is no wires connected directly to the clock.Unscrew the two screws and then gently push in the plastic lug on the side of the clock and the timer clock will come off the back plate

Thanks for your help. I'll give it a go when I get the new timer.

smjm

Just in case anyone comes across this thread for future reference, I found more details of the 31000 series timers here (p23) http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Hager-OEMcatalog_EN.pdf

which indicates that the 31031 has wiring points '1 2 N L' (and not, as I thought, 'N N L 1')

Lex Luthor

Sorry for digging up an old thread, but just wanted to check about replacing a Flash Immermat 31031 with a Sonoff TH16

Does the 31031 have a L & N going to it or does it just switch the Live wire internally?

The Sonoff devices need a L & N to operate

Thanks

Wearb

I can't remember for certain, but I expect it needs a neutral to drive the clock. So should be easy to fit sonoff.

Btw Are you using the temperature function of the TH 16?

Lex Luthor

Wearb wrote: »

I can't remember for certain, but I expect it needs a neutral to drive the clock. So should be easy to fit sonoff.

Btw Are you using the temperature function of the TH 16?

yes thats the plan anyway

Wearb

Lex Luthor wrote: »

yes thats the plan anyway

Perhaps they have updated the firmware since I used one. Back then the hysteresis was a bit broad for my liking. My way around it was to set on and off temperature the same and the hysteresis for the off and on times did the switching with a less noticeable room temp variation.

Lex Luthor

Wearb wrote: »

Perhaps they have updated the firmware since I used one. Back then the hysteresis was a bit broad for my liking. My way around it was to set on and off temperature the same and the hysteresis for the off and on times did the switching with a less noticeable room temp variation.

Thanks for the heads up
Will play around with it once it’s installed

Lex Luthor

I've just seen on Itead website they are now selling Zigbee Sonoff products
They have a temp.hum sensor for zigbee which will allow wireless control once a Zigbee bridge is installed
This is much better than a wire with a long cable running from the TH16 unit

Wearb

Lex Luthor wrote: »

I've just seen on Itead website they are now selling Zigbee Sonoff products
They have a temp.hum sensor for zigbee which will allow wireless control once a Zigbee bridge is installed
This is much better than a wire with a long cable running from the TH16 unit

You will still need power to the zigbee unit?

Lex Luthor

Wearb wrote: »

You will still need power to the zigbee unit?

from what I can see the temp/hum device is battery operated

The bridge is just mini usb and I have some old phone chargers that I can use and put that in the bedroom or hidden away

Wearb

Lex Luthor wrote: »

from what I can see the temp/hum device is battery operated

The bridge is just mini usb and I have some old phone chargers that I can use and put that in the bedroom or hidden away

Perhaps post here how it all worked out when finished.

Lex Luthor

will do, its for a friends house, I'm happy enough with my netatmo unit

Wearb

Lex Luthor wrote: »

will do, its for a friends house, I'm happy enough with my netatmo unit

I swapped out my sonoff for this wifi stat. Not perfect, but adequate.

Captsx1

Lex Luthor wrote: »

Sorry for digging up an old thread, but just wanted to check about replacing a Flash Immermat 31031 with a Sonoff TH16

Does the 31031 have a L & N going to it or does it just switch the Live wire internally?

The Sonoff devices need a L & N to operate

Thanks

Hi, did you fit the Sonoff device in place of your 31031? Looking to replace mine for something more programmable and maybe connected.

Thanks
Captsx1

Lex Luthor

Captsx1 wrote: »

Hi, did you fit the Sonoff device in place of your 31031? Looking to replace mine for something more programmable and maybe connected.

Thanks
Captsx1

it was for a friends house and he never got going with it

I dont have the TH Sonoff but many others of their products and they are really great

I think I might get one for the immersion though