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Partial or full attic flooring for storage?

  • 02-11-2016 8:53am
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 754 ✭✭✭


    Looking to floor the attic for storage and get an attic stairs. Think attic is 37 sq meters (never been up in our attic but someone told us the size of the attic is roughly size of the perimeter of the house with a meter taken off each side).

    t would be costly to get someone in to floor the whole space and wondering if there is any merit in only flooring part of the attic or is it better to get it all done in one go?

    Would it make much difference price wise? Also maybe it would be better because it limits the amount of weight we will store there and also won’t affect the insulation as much etc?


Comments

  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 40,339 Mod ✭✭✭✭Gumbo


    add the stairs, you create an additional storey and all the associated regulations that go with it.
    Fire detectin
    Fire door
    structural, fire rated floor.
    means of escape.

    I'd budget 20k for a typical attic conversion.
    Ignore the advice you received about the 1m perimeter.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 294 ✭✭Bad_alibi


    By attic stair I assume he means a fold down ladder not a full attic conversion

    Very rough cost :
    Sheet of OSB3 €20ish (you'll need about 13 for 37sqm €260) that's fixing directly to the joists up there. If you want to add extra insulation or not compress the insulation already up there, you'll need to add batons to the joists to raise the height of the floor. The sheets will have to be ripped down to fit through the opening.
    Labour will be two lads for two days €250-€400
    Folding attic stairs €100-€200
    May need a plasterer to make good around the attic opening another €100

    All in you won't be to far wrong at €1000


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,655 ✭✭✭draiochtanois


    This post has been deleted.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 808 ✭✭✭Angry bird


    I manage fine with a step ladder, plywood along a section of the attic space and a light. Cost SFA and does the storage job fine.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 6,751 ✭✭✭mirrorwall14


    We just got a staire in for 449. Opening is perfect. Quoted approx 1k to floor the whole thing (3 Bed semi), that's not happening. Now the stairs is in we'll do it ourselves. Plenty carpenter skills in the extended family


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 754 ✭✭✭Weyhey


    Unfortunately no diyers in my family.
    Was told to get OSB and make sure it is not tongue and groove (in case any need to come up to look at pipes or wiring underneath).

    My main issue is should I get all the attic floored or just some of the 37sq meters? If I floor all will I end up filling the attic with weight that the floor is not meant to support and also feck up the insulation unnecessarily etc.

    kceire - Definitely a pull down stairs and for storage only


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,329 ✭✭✭✭loyatemu


    you probably don't need to floor the whole thing for storage - we only have the central section of ours floored and its loads of space. Definitely get a Stira-style wooden steps installed though rather than a fold-out metal ladder. It makes it much easier to get things in and out and reduces the chance of you taking a tumble.


  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 40,339 Mod ✭✭✭✭Gumbo


    Weyhey wrote: »
    Unfortunately no diyers in my family.
    Was told to get OSB and make sure it is not tongue and groove (in case any need to come up to look at pipes or wiring underneath).

    My main issue is should I get all the attic floored or just some of the 37sq meters? If I floor all will I end up filling the attic with weight that the floor is not meant to support and also feck up the insulation unnecessarily etc.

    kceire - Definitely a pull down stairs and for storage only

    That changes it then.
    There is always a deal on groupon for attic flooring and the same guy does the fold down ladder and light. You could get a good deal for it to be done all in one go.

    When you have him out, get the cost of doing a section against the cost of doing the full lot.

    Now you have to worry about condensing the existing insulation between the joists. Depending on what you have there will determine the best approach.

    Can you photograph the existing attic?


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 390 ✭✭tradesman


    I think its best to use loft storage stilts. B & Q & other builders merchants sell them. Don't quote me but I think they are approx. €1.50 each.
    They sit down on top of the joist & you screw them to the joist. Then lay the flooring sheets on top & screw to the stilt. Using the stilts does not compress the insulation which keeps the insulation working properly.
    I used them for a customer & very easy to fit. Just space them correctly. My advice just do a section you think will be large enough then add more as required.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 754 ✭✭✭Weyhey


    Looks like half the floor would be best bet.....

    One last thing folks - I got 3 quotes but all for tongue and groove. Roughly around 1k for large opening, wooden stairs and 250 sq feet raised OSB.

    I was led to believe that tongue and groove was a pain if you needed to get at wires or pipes etc but fitters said non T&G is too bouncy and it is easy enough to cut sections out?

    Anyone any opinions?


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 754 ✭✭✭Weyhey


    tradesman wrote: »
    I think its best to use loft storage stilts. B & Q & other builders merchants sell them. Don't quote me but I think they are approx. €1.50 each.
    They sit down on top of the joist & you screw them to the joist. Then lay the flooring sheets on top & screw to the stilt. Using the stilts does not compress the insulation which keeps the insulation working properly.
    I used them for a customer & very easy to fit. Just space them correctly. My advice just do a section you think will be large enough then add more as required.

    Thanks tradesman for this. Fitters mentioned they remove all of the insulation to fit a platform for a raised floor then they will add the insulation back in. Is this different or less preferable to the stilts?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 754 ✭✭✭Weyhey


    T&G or no T&G?

    Also is it worth getting a 76mm hatch / door over the 26mm one to protect heat loss? The cost is 200e difference.


  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 40,339 Mod ✭✭✭✭Gumbo


    Weyhey wrote: »
    T&G or no T&G?

    Also is it worth getting a 76mm hatch / door over the 26mm one to protect heat loss? The cost is 200e difference.

    Do it right once.
    I would.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,373 ✭✭✭iwillhtfu


    T&G definitely

    Hatch door I'd just go with the standard door and insulate with a piece of kingspan or similar like that multi layer foil insualtion.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 754 ✭✭✭Weyhey


    iwillhtfu wrote: »
    T&G definitely

    Hatch door I'd just go with the standard door and insulate with a piece of kingspan or similar like that multi layer foil insualtion.

    Thanks for this iwillhtfu. Any reason of preferring the T& G over non T&G?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 754 ✭✭✭Weyhey


    kceire wrote: »
    Do it right once.
    I would.

    I agree. But what is right - thicker hatch or is like iwillthu says a layer of kingspan just as good. And T&G or non T&G?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,373 ✭✭✭iwillhtfu


    Weyhey wrote: »
    Thanks for this iwillhtfu. Any reason of preferring the T& G over non T&G?

    T&G gives a much more solid base particularly on a raised floor as it it supported on all sides.

    Yes it can be a pain if something has to be accessed underneath but if this is required then you're basically ripping a line down a sheet of T&G creating a standard non T&G sheet.

    The likelihood of you ever having to access the underside of the floor is slim. How many times have you had to access under the floor boards on the 1st floor which if a new house are probably T&G floor boards. :)


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