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Underfloor heating & Nest

  • 27-10-2016 12:54pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 452 ✭✭


    Hello,
    We're aiming to move into a new build in February next year. The shell of the house is built now so starting to think about Kitchen layout etc.
    Would like to do underfloor heating for under the tiles in the kitchen / hall area but am abit clueless about pros / cons - anyone got advice.
    I'd also like to incorporate the Nest heating control - looks great but don't know that much about it. Again - any advice?


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 702 ✭✭✭JonathonS


    NEDDURC wrote: »
    I'd also like to incorporate the Nest heating control - looks great but don't know that much about it. Again - any advice?

    I spoke to 2 guys from Electric Irl HQ at the Ploughing who were experts on Nest and the other system that they sell. One was Jim, the other Odhran. If you phone EI you might get them.

    I'm not sure Nest will work with UFH. Its a proximity control system, it senses if you are away from home and turns the heat off, and back on when you return. That's fine with a fast-acting rad heating, not so good with ufh. I spoke to a chap at the self-build show who said an on-off timer was best for ufh.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 379 ✭✭garbeth


    You can disable the auto away function in nest


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 228 ✭✭blast06


    NEDDURC wrote: »
    Hello,
    We're aiming to move into a new build in February next year. The shell of the house is built now so starting to think about Kitchen layout etc.
    Would like to do underfloor heating for under the tiles in the kitchen / hall area but am abit clueless about pros / cons - anyone got advice.
    I'd also like to incorporate the Nest heating control - looks great but don't know that much about it. Again - any advice?

    You're building a new house and thus i presume you have to be part L compliant and thus with the level of insulation you will have, the (i presume) MHRV and airtightness then you will have a low-energy requirement and Nest would be completely unnecessary ... i.e.: you're house will be ~20 degrees 24/7/365.

    Note, if the shell of the house is done and you are now only thinking about putting in UFH then it sounds like you put the cart before the horse a little bit, i.e.: in a new build, UFH piping would usually be put in before walls are built


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 376 ✭✭delfagio


    blast06 wrote:
    Note, if the shell of the house is done and you are now only thinking about putting in UFH then it sounds like you put the cart before the horse a little bit, i.e.: in a new build, UFH piping would usually be put in before walls are built


    Not true, majority of houses been built put the UFH in after house is built and plastered internally.

    Allowances are made for the floor to come up 200mm - 225mm or so, i.e. 150my insulation with UFH pipes and then 50mm liquid screed or 75mm sand and cement


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 228 ✭✭blast06


    delfagio wrote: »
    Not true, majority of houses been built put the UFH in after house is built and plastered internally.

    Allowances are made for the floor to come up 200mm - 225mm or so, i.e. 150my insulation with UFH pipes and then 50mm liquid screed or 75mm sand and cement

    So when do you part your radon barrier in ?
    I would consider the cleanest and easiest way of doing it is to put the insulation, underfloor pipes and screed in before building blocks (of course the blocks up finished floor level would be built first).
    I say that as one who didn't do that (direct build) and engineer was pretty pissed off with it .... I had a couple of thousand blocks built when he called to site and asked "what the fcuk are you doing" !


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 376 ✭✭delfagio


    blast06 wrote:
    So when do you part your radon barrier in ? I would consider the cleanest and easiest way of doing it is to put the insulation, underfloor pipes and screed in before building blocks (of course the blocks up finished floor level would be built first). I say that as one who didn't do that (direct build) and engineer was pretty pissed off with it .... I had a couple of thousand blocks built when he called to site and asked "what the fcuk are you doing" !


    Depends on your build I suppose, but usually the Radon Barrier goes in under the concrete subfloor.

    You can do insulation and UFH before or after the house is built. Different strokes for different folks I suppose


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 702 ✭✭✭JonathonS


    garbeth wrote: »
    You can disable the auto away function in nest

    True. You can also disable all auto functionality, and just use it as a timer. But that kinda negates the point of it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 452 ✭✭NEDDURC


    Thanks for all the replies.


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