Struggling to get used to new car

languagenerd

Hi all,

I was learning to drive in my mother's car and she recently traded it in for a new one right after I had booked a test (it was gonna need an expensive service soon so she was better off trading it in). Buuut, a few weeks later, it's now less than a month to that test and I'm still struggling to get used to her new car. It's petrol - the previous one was diesel - and the clutch feels particularly "soft" compared to the other 3 cars I've ever driven. I keep conking out on hills/at traffic lights and I'm told I'm not changing gear quick enough. I've been out in it a good 10 times now & I still haven't had a drive without cutting out at least twice.

It's so frustrating because I was finally starting to feel like a driver in the old car - my instructor said I was just about ready for the test - and now my confidence is completely gone. Does anyone have any tips on changing cars? (I realise I probably wasn't doing the clutch/gears right all along but the diesel car was masking it...)

punisher5112

languagenerd wrote: »

Hi all,

I was learning to drive in my mother's car and she recently traded it in a new one right after I had booked a test. A few weeks later, it's now less than a month to that test and I'm still struggling to get used to her new car. It's petrol - the previous one was diesel - and the clutch feels particularly "soft" compared to the other 3 cars I've ever driven. I keep conking out on hills/at traffic lights and I'm told I'm not changing gear quick enough. I've been out in it a good 10 times now & I still haven't had a drive without conking at least twice.

It's so frustrating because I was finally starting to feel like a driver in the old car - my instructor said I was just about ready for the test - and now my confidence is completely gone. Does anyone have any tips on changing cars? (I realise I probably wasn't doing the clutch/gears right all along but the diesel car was masking it...)

Try and get a car that's diesel from a instructor and rent it for the test.

cantdecide

The clutch isn't the problem, I reckon. What I think you need to do is manage the throttle a bit better. This is something I mention to people on this forum from time to time

Alanstrainor

cantdecide wrote: »

The clutch isn't the problem, I reckon. What I think you need to do is manage the throttle a bit better. This is something I mention to people on this forum from time to time

+1 on this. Spot on.

Diesels and petrols are very different to drive (as you well know!). A diesel is very forgiving off the clutch and you generally need little throttle to get the car moving. However most petrols just aren't as torque-y and need a bit of accelerator to get moving.

Consider a flat road, moving off scenario. You're method should be to slowly release the clutch, feel the biting point and continue to release while gently accelerating. Did you stall? Try again with more throttle. Did you make a lot of noise and move off okay? Try a little less throttle.

I'd advise you to go to an empty car park and practise this 50 times. You'll get it! It is mostly a case of familiarity at this point!

draiochtanois

This post has been deleted.

J_R

Hi,

Rev the engine to a nice "happy sound" before finding the "Bite" or the "Holding Point"

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lBJSVb1fimQ

A car is actually not designed to move off without increasing the power. To minimise fuel consumption, air and noise pollution car manufacturers set the idling revs at the very bare minimum. But with a safety margin so that even if all the ancillary equipment is running the engine still "ticks over" smoothly.

If moving off without increasing the power it is this "safety margin" that is being used to move almost a ton dead weight. Hence tendency to stall.

(The engineers have surpassed themselves on the upmarket cars, thy switch themselves off when put into neutral so zero fuel, air pollution)

The characteristics of a diesel engine is that they generate a lot more power at low revs than a petrol so much less likely to stall. (Reason why diesel Opel Corsa are so popular with driving instructors)

Look on the accelerator as a "Power" switch not simply a speed control. What you do with that power you decide by the gears or the clutch.

Moving off you need POWER, rev the engine, use the clutch to control how much of that power you transfer to the wheels.


A lot of instructors wrongly believe that revving the engine will prematurely burn out the clutch. It won't as having more power to play with you can let up the clutch quicker thereby getting up to cruising speed quicker.

From my notes

Our Objective: To move off from the side of the road safely and under full control

Status of Car: Engine running, in neutral and handbrake on.

Depress the clutch and select 1st gear. (Palm facing away)

Set the power of the engine, that is rev the engine slightly to a nice "Happy Sound".

Now let the clutch up very slowly, until you hear the sound of the engine deepen.

Stop at this point, you have found the bite or the holding point. Now hold both feet still.

Check to the front of the car, left mirror, interior mirror, right mirror and over your right shoulder for the blind spot.

If safe and clear, indicate

Release the handbrake and return your hand to the steering wheel.

Let the clutch up very slightly

The car should now start moving slowly forward.

Wait for a second or so until the car has gained a little momentum.

Increase gas, let the clutch up smoothly all the way

languagenerd

Thanks for all the replies. I had a better drive yesterday using some of the ideas here It's likely that my technique/pedal control was bad in the first place but the diesel engine hid a lot of it as it's less likely to cut out anyway. (And it was a more robust car so it was harder to hear the angry engine noises!)

It'll take a lot more practice than I thought but I suppose it's better to fix it now than months down the line!