How much does a shop charge to replace pedals?

Galego

It is a road bike and I have the new pedals a!ready myself and was wondering what the fee may be.

Thanks.

Cee-Jay-Cee

Have you a 17mm spanner? Do it yourself, it's a simple job but if you have to get a shop to do it then it shouldn't be anymore than €5 as it's a 2 minute job.

saccades

Could also be a 8mm allenkey job.

Galego

Cee-Jay-Cee wrote: »

Have you a 17mm spanner? Do it yourself, it's a simple job but if you have to get a shop to do it then it shouldn't be anymore than €5 as it's a 2 minute job.

I've no grease for new pedals. Is that essential?

Carawaystick

Chain on the big ring first

funnights74

Galego wrote: »

It is a road bike and I have the new pedals a!ready myself and was wondering what the fee may be.

Thanks.

Extremely simple job, takes 2 mins max. Just have grease for the threads. Plenty of clips on you tube and you're sorted.

Galego

funnights74 wrote: »

Extremely simple job, takes 2 mins max. Just have grease for the threads. Plenty of clips on you tube and you're sorted.

I've no grease for new pedals. Is that essential? Can I get grease cheap enough from any diy store?

Galego

Galego wrote: »

I've no grease for new pedals. Is that essential?

That depends, are you fond of removing your pedals?

Galego

ronoc wrote: »

That depends, are you fond of removing your pedals?

No. Replacing the ones which came with the bike to put clipless ones.

Galego

Galego wrote: »

No. Replacing the ones which came with the bike to put clipless ones.

Sorry that was meant to be sarcastic.

You will want some lithium grease to prevent your pedals seizing in the threads and preventing eventual replacement.

Smokeyskelton

Once the original pedals aren't seized / fused in the cranks it is an easy job (especially for a mechanic, but also for the home mechanic).

However, if they are seized, it could be a little more tricky. The likelihood is that they will be easily replaced and only cost a few euro if you go to a shop (may even be free if you are buying something or getting another job done).

It will probably be cheaper and easier to get a mechanic to do it if it is a one-off job. However, if you are likely to change your pedals more than a few times, then a pedal spanner / allen key and some grease are reasonably cheap.

Good luck with the clipless pedals, remember to clip out early coming when coming to a stop!

robyntmorton

Smokeyskelton wrote: »

Good luck with the clipless pedals, remember to clip out early coming when coming to a stop!

Better idea: Forget to clip out just once. You'll never forget again :P

DanDublin1982

Its the type of thing you might not want to do very often but you still don't want to have the hassle of going to the bike shop for every time you do want to do it. YouTube helped me figure it out and once you've done it once you'll be grand.

Wait it out til you have the grease.

halvis

No need for the grease right away, just fit them and buy the grease in the next week or two. The pedals should still come off easily enough in that time, apply the grease and you will be fine.

Mr. Grieves

Galego wrote: »

I've no grease for new pedals. Is that essential?

Buy some lithium grease, it's not expensive and a tube will last 10 years.

tuxy

Watch this and spend your money on the grease, it will come in handy for other components at some stage anyway

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YmPkYMPVqQU

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ie/en/weldtite-tf2-lithium-grease/rp-prod5959

Eamonnator

Carawaystick wrote: »

Chain on the big ring first

Best advice so far.

Wishbone Ash

Eamonnator wrote: »

Best advice so far.

Only an issue for those who break the rules by turning their bike upside down. I've never felt the need!

A 17mm spanner was mentioned earlier - shouldn't that be 15mm?

OP - if you give your approx location there may be some here who would be happy to get you sorted.

Cee-Jay-Cee

Galego wrote: »

I've no grease for new pedals. Is that essential? Can I get grease cheap enough from any diy store?

If you have it handy, use Vaseline. It does the job perfectly well.

tuxy

Cee-Jay-Cee wrote: »

If you have it handy, use Vaseline. It does the job perfectly well.

Vaseline is petrol based so I imagine it will evaporate at room temperature. I don't see how it could keep the thread lubricated over a long period of time. These thing can be a nightmare to remove if they seize, I wouldn't be taking any chances.

StevieGriff

Cee-Jay-Cee wrote: »

Have you a 17mm spanner? Do it yourself, it's a simple job but if you have to get a shop to do it then it shouldn't be anymore than €5 as it's a 2 minute job.

15mm

Galego

Wishbone Ash wrote: »

Only an issue for those who break the rules by turning their bike upside down. I've never felt the need!

A 17mm spanner was mentioned earlier - shouldn't that be 15mm?

OP - if you give your approx location there may be some here who would be happy to get you sorted.

I am in Dunshaughlin if anyone is around and willing to help.

My major issue is the grease. I've some 3 in 1 multiple purpose oil. Could that be any good? (apologies in advance if the question sounds very silly).

Cee-Jay-Cee

tuxy wrote: »

Vaseline is petrol based so I imagine it will evaporate at room temperature. I don't see how it could keep the thread lubricated over a long period of time. These thing can be a nightmare to remove if they seize, I wouldn't be taking any chances.

No, it doesn't really evaporate, well at not least in the time frames we're talking about. Its petroleum based but is a mixture of natural mineral oils and waxes. Some of the petroleum based ingredients may evaporate over a long period but the waxes and mineral oils remain and its absolutely fine to use on threads on the likes of pedals etc etc obviously not as good as specific lithium grease but does the job perfectly well.

I fitted a set of 105 pedals on my winter bike in early 2013 and put Vaseline on the threads, they have never been off it since. I went out to the garage last night just to check them and they came off so easily. The threads were very clean and bright and there was no signs of any corrosion. That bike has been used exclusively since 2013 as a wet/winter bike and gets used all year round given our wet climate.

Galego wrote: »

I am in Dunshaughlin if anyone is around and willing to help.

My major issue is the grease. I've some 3 in 1 multiple purpose oil. Could that be any good? (apologies in advance if the question sounds very silly).

Use the 3 in 1 oil for now and get some proper grease (or Vaseline) when ever you can and take them off again, clean them and grease them up and refit. They're not going to seize that quickly.

Wishbone Ash

Galego wrote: »

I am in Dunshaughlin if anyone is around and willing to help.

My major issue is the grease. I've some 3 in 1 multiple purpose oil. Could that be any good? (apologies in advance if the question sounds very silly).

3 in 1 oil is too thin and will dry out fairly quickly. Grease is thicker and can withstand a lot more abuse. As has been said, ungreased pedals will fuse with the cranks over time making them very difficult to remove should you wish to change pedals or put the bike in a bike box for travel.

You don't have to use lithium grease. I've always used ordinary mechanics grease and never have had any problems with it. If you know anyone involved in agriculture, they'll have loads of it.

(PS - oil will be ok as a temporary measure).

mloc123

I can't believe there is a thread with 24 replies about swapping pedals...

crosstownk

mloc123 wrote: »

I can't believe there is a thread with 24 replies about swapping pedals...

And not one mention that the thread direction is different for each pedal.

Fian

Carawaystick wrote: »

Chain on the big ring first

OP, just in case it is too opaque - when Carawaystick said put the chain on the big ring first he was not making some kind of inside joke. This is to protect your knuckles/hand if the pedal wrench slips off the pedals, you do not want the cogs of the big ring exposed to smash into.

Remember that the pedals do not screw on like normal nuts, they screw in in directions opposite to each other. this is so that the pedaling action operates to tighten each of them rather than loosening one of them.

Removing the old pedals can be a bitch if they are left on too long/inadequately greased. I found it impossible with the first bike i tried to replace pedals on, spent loads of time using as much leverage as I could manage.

Bike shop down the road from me (Joe Daly's in Dundrum) had a better pedal spanner and the mechanic there did it for me while I watched, refused to charge me as well.

Darkglasses

crosstownk wrote: »

And not one mention that the thread direction is different for each pedal.

Nor the best way to extend the length of the spanner!

I echo the advice of putting the chain on the big ring first. Hand slipped once and got a big cut off the teeth

uck51js9zml2yt

OP , buy the grease linked to earlier. You'll have it in a day or 2 and away you go.

tomasrojo

I was told a handy way to remember which way to screw on/off the pedals.

Imagine the spanner on the pedal stem with the handle pointing to the ceiling. "To go forward, you'll need pedals installed", so the spanner is turned forwards (towards the front wheel) to install the pedals. So tightening means turning anti-clockwise on the left and clockwise on the right.

Well, I found it handy.

ford2600

On grease this is good (for pedals it won't matter but for bearing it probably will)
http://forum.cyclinguk.org/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=42374#p341163

Old thread and couldn't find a mobil equivalent available now but this seems similar
https://www.pli-petronas.com/assets/pdf/products/iml/grease/petronas-grease-lix-syn-1-1500.pdf

brocbrocach

One thing: A pedal spanner can cost up to €20 and a normal 15' spanner is much much cheaper but it's a pain in the howl for this job usually (if it works at all). Still it's enjoyable to fit them and once you've done it once you'll have it forever.

check_six

Darkglasses wrote: »

Nor the best way to extend the length of the spanner!

Bit of pipe to fit over the spanner is useful for removing the old pedals (they will be sticky). An old seat post does the job quite nicely. (Do not use a carbon seat post!). Your current seat post will do if nothing else is available.

tomasrojo wrote: »

I was told a handy way to remember which way to screw on/off the pedals.

Imagine the spanner on the pedal stem with the handle pointing to the ceiling. "To go forward, you'll need pedals installed", so the spanner is turned forwards (towards the front wheel) to install the pedals. So tightening means turning anti-clockwise on the left and clockwise on the right.

Well, I found it handy.

Non-drive side is wrong way thread. I always struggle to remember this when actually doing the job, but writing it down seems straightforward enough.

But what if the omens are bad and the bike is upside down, and there is a full moon, and a two headed calf has just been born? What then? :eek::eek:

Consult your local shaman in all cases.

tomasrojo

I've a very visual memory, and I never forget using the "pedal spanner pointing up" mnemonic. Bizarrely, I can't remember "non-drive side is wrong way". It's liable to turn into "drive side is wrong way".

crosstownk

tomasrojo wrote: »

Bizarrely, I can't remember "non-drive side is wrong way".

I can never remember which is which either and I've given up trying to remember. I just use Google before I start swinging spanners.

brocbrocach wrote:

A pedal spanner can cost up to €20 and a normal 15' spanner is much much cheaper but it's a pain in the howl for this job usually (if it works at all).

A normal 15mm spanner may be too thick for some pedals which require the narrower pedal spanner.

I can't remember why exactly but Dura Ace 9000 pedals can ony be fitted/removed with an allen key.

jive

brocbrocach wrote: »

One thing: A pedal spanner can cost up to €20 and a normal 15' spanner is much much cheaper but it's a pain in the howl for this job usually (if it works at all). Still it's enjoyable to fit them and once you've done it once you'll have it forever.

You can pick them up for about €5 online (a thin 15mm for pedals).

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ie/en/x-tools-cone-spanner/rp-prod10200

Just buy another €6 worth of crap to make it up to the €9 free delivery threshold.

Grease:
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ie/en/weldtite-tf2-lithium-grease/rp-prod5959

Socks:
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ie/en/one-industries-one-no-show-socks/rp-prod137344

€3.49 + €3.49 + €2.49 = €9.47

happytramp

Both pedals tighten by turning them toward the front of the bike.. Easy.

cdaly_

tomasrojo wrote: »

I've a very visual memory, and I never forget using the "pedal spanner pointing up" mnemonic. Bizarrely, I can't remember "non-drive side is wrong way". It's liable to turn into "drive side is wrong way".

"Undo is backpedal".

This of course means that you cannot use the bike to lever against when trying to undo a seized pedal...

tomasrojo

happytramp wrote: »

Both pedals tighten by turning them toward the front of the bike.. Easy.

... unless your spanner is pointing towards the ground to begin with.

tomasrojo

cdaly_ wrote: »

"Undo is backpedal".

This of course means that you cannot use the bike to lever against when trying to undo a seized pedal...

I always place the spanner so it forms an acute angle with the crank and use both hands to squeeze the spanner and the crank together. No nasty sudden jolts. Probably too little force for a seized pedal though.

brocbrocach

jive wrote: »

You can pick them up for about €5 online (a thin 15mm for pedals).

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ie/en/x-tools-cone-spanner/rp-prod10200

Just buy another €6 worth of crap to make it up to the €9 free delivery threshold.

Grease:
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ie/en/weldtite-tf2-lithium-grease/rp-prod5959

Socks:
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ie/en/one-industries-one-no-show-socks/rp-prod137344

€3.49 + €3.49 + €2.49 = €9.47

I could never really work out the function of a cone spanner as opposed to a pedal spanner. Is the cone spanner strong enough for pedals?

cython

brocbrocach wrote: »

I could never really work out the function of a cone spanner as opposed to a pedal spanner. Is the cone spanner strong enough for pedals?

Typically not for removing tightly stuck pedals (the spanner itself may bend before the pedals move), as they are even thinner. They might do a job to install pedals though, I guess?

jive

brocbrocach wrote: »

I could never really work out the function of a cone spanner as opposed to a pedal spanner. Is the cone spanner strong enough for pedals?

I actually have this one:

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ie/en/x-tools-pedal-spanner/rp-prod10190

Cost €1 more. I didn't realise I had linked a cone spanner - I have used a cone spanner in the past and it was grand though. Only difference I've noticed is that a cone spanner is thinner and weaker and generally shorter so you get less leverage.

I'd imagine go for a pedal spanner rather than cone as it's fit for purpose and only €1 in the difference. If this is a one-time job and the pedals aren't absolutely wedged then cone spanner might be sufficient.

horslips

I remember by thinking that the right hand pedal goes the "right" way, i.e. like a normal thread.

Watch out if you flip the bike upside down to reverse the sides.

cdaly_

brocbrocach wrote: »

I could never really work out the function of a cone spanner as opposed to a pedal spanner. Is the cone spanner strong enough for pedals?

Cone spanner is for adjusting cup and cone bearings. It's so thin because a standard spanner won't fit behind the lock nut. It should never be used with much force in the first place.

Wishbone Ash

crosstownk wrote: »

... Dura Ace 9000 pedals can ony be fitted/removed with an allen key.

Look pedals also require an allen key.

Planet X

This thread is unreal

Galego

Thanks everyone for taking your time and giving me very good tips.

I removed the strap metal pedals the bike came with and fitted some Shimano r450 (using some grease on it).

Now time for me to get used to the clipless pedals! :-)

letape

horslips wrote: »

I remember by thinking that the right hand pedal goes the "right" way, i.e. like a normal thread.

Watch out if you flip the bike upside down to reverse the sides.

That's how I have always remembered myself - the right hand pedal goes the "right" way (clockwise to tighten) and the left pedal goes the "wrong" way.