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UnderFloor Heating and increase room height

  • 14-10-2016 1:52pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3


    Dear Friends, I want to increase the ground floor height and do underfloor heating. It is in Lucan and have around 800 Sqft ground floor area. The floor is using carpet now and under the carpet there is concrete with around 18CM thickness. I want to dig 6-7 CM concrete down + and do underfloor heating. This is a semidetached house and the floor including kitchen,livingroom and dining room. Any Idea how much it will Cost
    Thanks in Advance Eoin


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,373 ✭✭✭893bet


    What insulation is currently under the floor?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3 thomasjvi


    Looks like there is no insulation.. Thick wood(around 2-3 cm) and then carpet on top of that. The problem is digging the concrete for 6-7 cm all around 800 Sq.Ft and levelling the floor.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,373 ✭✭✭893bet


    If there is no insulation under the floor then there is little point with under floor heating. I suspect you will need to dig down 10-12 inches to provide 120-150mm insulation and then put in the underfloor heating.

    Little point just putting it in as it stands.


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 10,146 Mod ✭✭✭✭BryanF


    Move out, find somewhere to rent,
    Turn of gas, water, electricity,plug drains,
    Remove and Store all doors, protect pretty much everything, (be prepared to replace or at least temporarily remove everything allowing for % breakage) skirting/architraves/ sockets, wiring, plumbing, kitchen, etc

    Get skip,
    Dig out floor,
    Remove down ~400 mm
    Assuming ground is ok, install sump system, add layer of hardcore, followed by sand, radon barrier, 150mm PIR insulation, ufh system, install concrete screed. Then let it slowly dry out.

    DIY maybe 5k and two months labour

    Contractor depending on access 10/15k

    Both excluding (heating system, and all decoration)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3 thomasjvi


    Further investigation looks like there is some kind of insulation under the concrete(not sure as I bought this a year before). The current concrete under the carpet has 17-18 cm thickness. My main question is, can I dig out and remove 7-8 cm and keep remaining 10cm thickness of concrete as it is ,so that I will get a better room height. Will this cause any structural damage? If so , for removing 8cm thickness of concrete how much I need to expect ? A ballpark figure..


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  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 40,340 Mod ✭✭✭✭Gumbo


    thomasjvi wrote: »
    Further investigation looks like there is some kind of insulation under the concrete(not sure as I bought this a year before). The current concrete under the carpet has 17-18 cm thickness. My main question is, can I dig out and remove 7-8 cm and keep remaining 10cm thickness of concrete as it is ,so that I will get a better room height. Will this cause any structural damage? If so , for removing 8cm thickness of concrete how much I need to expect ? A ballpark figure..

    You want to reduce a 180mm concrete floor slab down to 100mm?
    Serious breach of Part A of the Building Regulations in my opinion as the span of the slab may mean the thickness is too little and may not comply with the original design parameters.

    What has your engineer said?


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 10,146 Mod ✭✭✭✭BryanF


    thomasjvi wrote: »
    Further investigation looks like there is some kind of insulation under the concrete(not sure as I bought this a year before). The current concrete under the carpet has 17-18 cm thickness.


    My main question is, can I dig out and remove 7-8 cm and keep remaining 10cm thickness of concrete as it is ,so that I will get a better room height.
    .
    No! forget it, how would even go about doing this? Without making sh1te of everything?

    .

    Will this cause any structural damage? .
    Yes.

    If so , for removing 8cm thickness of concrete how much I need to expect ? A ballpark figure..
    did you read my earlier post?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,725 ✭✭✭Metric Tensor


    It could be a non structural screed but it could be a structural slab. You need an engineer to check this ....

    BUT.

    It's a mad plan anyway:

    You'd balls up your stairs.
    All your doors would be a non-standard height
    Your fire escape windows (if they exist) might no longer comply with the fire standards.
    Your new floor level might be subject to dampness depending on the wall construction.
    Have you got a fireplace? What will you do with the hearth?

    It's not a runner unless you are totally gutting the house top to bottom and even then it had a huge amount of knock on problems.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,610 ✭✭✭adam88


    Bear with me here guys. I'm doing something similiar. Totally gutting a 1970's bungalow. Want to put underfloor heating throughout the house. Just at the start of this project but don't want to ask a plumber face to face incase I look like a total numpty. But do you need a special boiler for underfloor heating or will your regular boiler used for normal radiators do you ???


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,049 ✭✭✭✭murphaph


    adam88 wrote: »
    Bear with me here guys. I'm doing something similiar. Totally gutting a 1970's bungalow. Want to put underfloor heating throughout the house. Just at the start of this project but don't want to ask a plumber face to face incase I look like a total numpty. But do you need a special boiler for underfloor heating or will your regular boiler used for normal radiators do you ???
    You can use any heat source you like more or less including a gas or oil boiler but look at models that modulate. Be sure to use narrow enough pipe spacing in your UFH so you retain the option of going low temp even if you don't at the beginning. I used 100mm spacing throughout for our low temp system.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,834 ✭✭✭air


    You can retain the existing boiler but will need to install a mixing valve to reduce the flow temperature.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,610 ✭✭✭adam88


    Debating whether to go fully ufh or just ufh in the large living space and rads in the B/rooms. Only reason I'd put rads in the rooms is to be able to put in towel rads in the bathrooms and ensuites


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,610 ✭✭✭adam88


    murphaph wrote: »
    You can use any heat source you like more or less including a gas or oil boiler but look at models that modulate. Be sure to use narrow enough pipe spacing in your UFH so you retain the option of going low temp even if you don't at the beginning. I used 100mm spacing throughout for our low temp system.

    When you say low temp do you mean the actual room temp or the temp that the boiler heats the water at?

    I'm not a fan of hot rooms and I really only like to take the chill out of the room so that it's comfortable and your not close to sweating


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 702 ✭✭✭JonathonS


    adam88 wrote: »
    Debating whether to go fully ufh or just ufh in the large living space and rads in the B/rooms. Only reason I'd put rads in the rooms is to be able to put in towel rads in the bathrooms and ensuites

    Depending on how your house is configured and how airtight and well insulated it is you may not need rads in the bedrooms. Sufficient heat will rise from the ground floor area. In that case you could run a UFH loop to the towel rail.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,049 ✭✭✭✭murphaph


    adam88 wrote: »
    When you say low temp do you mean the actual room temp or the temp that the boiler heats the water at?
    The flow temp of the water. Please note a low temp system will require you to have a well insulated house with good airtightness, but you are completely renovating so this should be on the agenda anyway and should take precedence over any heating system stuff.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 702 ✭✭✭JonathonS


    BryanF wrote: »
    ...install sump system

    Bryan, this is something I have not seen mentioned before when looking at retro-fit UFH. Please expand - what is the purpose and what is involved in installation?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,049 ✭✭✭✭murphaph


    JonathonS wrote: »
    Depending on how your house is configured and how airtight and well insulated it is you may not need rads in the bedrooms. Sufficient heat will rise from the ground floor area. In that case you could run a UFH loop to the towel rail.
    I decided against this. I didn't want a steel rad rusting slowly into my otherwise (almost) completely plastic and stainless steel system. I also read that low temps encourage rust.

    Even if I had done it it wouldn't have worked too well because the flow temps are well below body temp they'd never warm a towel anyway.

    I'd keep it all separate and use an oil filled towel rail with immersion element on a timer to heat towels before bath time if towel rails are important.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,610 ✭✭✭adam88


    Can you use all types of floor covering with ufh I.e. Carpet, vinyl

    I know wood and tiles are ideal


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 10,146 Mod ✭✭✭✭BryanF


    JonathonS wrote: »
    Bryan, this is something I have not seen mentioned before when looking at retro-fit UFH. Please expand - what is the purpose and what is involved in installation?

    Radon. Building regs. http://www.housing.gov.ie/sites/default/files/migrated-files/en/Publications/DevelopmentandHousing/BuildingStandards/FileDownLoad%2C1642%2Cen.pdf

    Nothing to do with ufh, it's to do with lifting and reinstating concrete floors.


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