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CH Circulating pump/potential capacitor problem

  • 11-10-2016 11:22pm
    #1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 3,601 ✭✭✭


    As the title says, having an issue with the circulating pump,
    I got it going by starting it with a screwdriver and it ran away fine until the stat turned it off. At that point it wouldn't restart again so I think its the capacitor, looking at it, its a 2.5 Microfarad (400v 10000hr/class B).

    I cant see anything about the type, but I thought it was an electrolytic capacitor and only in the start winding as it runs away fine otherwise. I enquired with Radionics and they have a 2.5 MicroFarad capacitor but they say its polypropelene (film) which I mostly associated with run windings?

    Are the capacitors in CH pumps as I suspect? part of the start winding? and electrolytic.
    I read electromotors in Glasnevin? could be an option to get a capacitor.

    I cant take the pump off to check if it has some problem at the impellor as the valves are seized at either end and the screw projections seem like they will snap off if I try put anymore pressure on them.

    Id like to replace the capacitor as a first option, if that still doesnt do it I suspect there might be some other additional problem with the pump and just replace the whole unit, in that case I was thinking of replacing the valves with a gate valve/handwheel operated type of valve.


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,565 ✭✭✭K.Flyer


    If you add up all your time and effort tracking down and going off to fetch and fit a suitable capacitor, would it not be more cost effective to just buy a new pump to replace the tired and quite possibly worn out one that you have. Just sayin'.
    And while you are at it fit decent gate valve type pump isolation valves.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,601 ✭✭✭cerastes


    I some ways I agree, but I was just trying to sort the problem in the interim until getting opinions on pumps (looking at a DAB or a brand sold by heatmerchants)
    But as the current set up has two crappy pump valves in place, that doesnt make a relatively easy task straightforward. It would be convenient for me to replace the capacitor right now, have the heating working and then tackle the pump later when I've everything in place to do that.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 262 ✭✭RJF


    What is the make and model of your existing pump ?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,601 ✭✭✭cerastes


    Wasn't online for a few days, Its a DAB VA55/130.
    I presume this means its a 5.5m head? from looking at other pumps online, it appears the 130 is the mm distance between the fittings,
    again looking online, it seems a lot of pumps are a 6m head, dont know if this would cause any other problems

    any ideas on the capacitor? ie where to get a specific replacement, I was fairly sure a start capacitor was electrolytic, but Ive located a polypropelene film type in RS. It'd be handy if I dont have to replace the pump immediately as its getting cold and it isn't as easily removed as it could be if the valves either side worked, that and the fact there is only a gravity fill from the tank, Im not convinced this will make represuurising it convenient.
    Simply putting a capacitor may be only kicking the problem down the road, but at the moment that suits me right now.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,404 ✭✭✭corkgsxr


    Replace it with the dab again. Reliable pumps


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,601 ✭✭✭cerastes


    I havent actually seen a DAB around for sale
    where would I get one and how much?

    I see a few in heatmerchants (didnt notice the brandnames in the sidebar).
    I'm wondering if I should get some system cleaner and get it into the system and pump it around with the old pump before swapping it out. There is no means to add chemicals at the moment but there is an old header tank for the heating in the attic which is disconnected (not sure why this was done as it seems an ideal set up to fill/refill or top up chemicals you wouldnt want mixed in with the tank water). Most valves are seized too so it's hard to say which are fully closed or not.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,601 ✭✭✭cerastes


    Where can I get a a DAB evosta? it seems they (DAB) are as a good as other makes? but cost less, the DAB thats in place has lasted a long time. I found one place that advertised them but upon calling they dont stock them anymore, rather than trawl everywhere, anyone know where I can locate one in Dublin?


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