Toilet blockage & Tap Adadpter Queries

VUDuo2

Apologies in advance for the following, embarrassing queries;

It appears that our house and all other houses in our estate, were built with the same plumbing design flaw.

The upstairs internal en-suite waste pipe travels approx 15 feet before it turns 90 degrees, it then goes another 20 feet before it reaches the external wall –were it drops below.

We have had constant toilet blockages and leaks down through the kitchen ceiling since moving in.

We’ve been advised to fit a saniflo macerator, to pump the poo etc out.
We’ve already had our floors/ceiling taken down twice already to resolve leaks so fitting a saniflo, at the moment, is financially very difficult.

Is that the way to go to resolve this issue ??

As a temporary measure, once a month, I’m thinking of putting a garden hose down the toilet and to either connect it directly to the sink tap ( pic attached) or use a pressure washer ( is that possible / necessary ??) to push the stuff out.

To connect the hose / pressure washer to the tap, does the spout have to come off, does it come off !!

Would something like this adapter do link

K.Flyer

I would first look at the volume of water you have per flush. Some newer cisterns are less than 6 litres and on a run as you described its probably not enough.

VUDuo2

K.Flyer wrote: »

I would first look at the volume of water you have per flush. Some newer cisterns are less than 6 litres and on a run as you described its probably not enough.

Thanks for that K.Flyer.

What cistern size would suit ?

K.Flyer

VUDuo2 wrote: »

Thanks for that K.Flyer.

What cistern size would suit ?

Its not so much the size of the cistern, more the volume of water being flushed.
Let your cistern fill, mark where the water line is, tie up the ballcock and flush the toilet. Re-fill the cistern using a measuring jug or similar to the line and that will tell you what volume is being flushed.
Also check to see if the cistern is emptying completely and filling fully. Newer flush valves can be adjusted to increase the flush volume and filling valves adjusted to allow more water in.
Ideally you need a minimum of 6 litres, but in your case it might be better if its closer to 7 or 8 litres.
Measure first before anything.

antoinolachtnai

I would try to Find any alternative to a macerator. It will work but it should be a last resort. Apart from the excellent suggestion above there are lots of things that could help, like replacing the 90 degree bend with two 45's and making sure there is sufficient fall on both sides of the bend. Small changes could make a big difference.

VUDuo2

K.Flyer wrote: »

Its not so much the size of the cistern, more the volume of water being flushed.
Let your cistern fill, mark where the water line is, tie up the ballcock and flush the toilet. Re-fill the cistern using a measuring jug or similar to the line and that will tell you what volume is being flushed.
Also check to see if the cistern is emptying completely and filling fully. Newer flush valves can be adjusted to increase the flush volume and filling valves adjusted to allow more water in.
Ideally you need a minimum of 6 litres, but in your case it might be better if its closer to 7 or 8 litres.
Measure first before anything.

Thanks again K.Flyer.

I'm not one bit a DIY head but I managed, eventually, to do the above and can confirm there's 9 litre's of water being flushed.

The cistern empities completely.

VUDuo2

antoinolachtnai wrote: »

I would try to Find any alternative to a macerator. It will work but it should be a last resort. Apart from the excellent suggestion above there are lots of things that could help, like replacing the 90 degree bend with two 45's and making sure there is sufficient fall on both sides of the bend. Small changes could make a big difference.

I suppose replacing the 90dg bend with 2 x 45's involves removing / replacing 2 ceilings etc - something I really want to aovid.

antoinolachtnai

It's really not as bad as it sounds for a decent tradesman, especially if it is accessible through a ceiling. Cut a hole, make the changes, cover the hole with new plasterboard, bit of filler and paint, job done for once and for all. Macerators require continuous care and attention. Trust me, if opening the ceiling and fitting the two 45's or a curve will solve the problem, it is much handier than the macerator. The cost will be about the same, providing the access is that straightforward.

It is obviously critical that there is enough fall on the pipe.

If you fit the macerator, you will still have to run a pipe somewhere and there could be significant hole drilling involved.

Let us know how it goes, whatever you decide.