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Trying to train a highly reactive dog

  • 28-09-2016 5:19pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,648 ✭✭✭


    As the thread title indicates:

    My wife and I adopted a seven-year-old lurcher cross a couple of months ago, and we knew going in that she was extremely reactive to other animals (dogs, cats, birds...) We've been trying to train her to react less aggressively, but the guides we've found all tend to suggest using treats as the reward. This doesn't work with her, as she wears a muzzle on walks and doesn't pay any attention to food when we're out.

    I know we may not ever be able to train her out of it, but is there any alternative approach we could take? At the moment, she's even trying to bite the television if a cow appears on the screen.


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,053 ✭✭✭Bells21


    Fair play to ye for adopting and for trying to tackle the issue however I think it may be time to involve a professional. Maybe let people know where you're based and people could suggest a good positive force free trainer.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,648 ✭✭✭desertcircus


    Thanks for the suggestion - we're in Dublin 8.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,611 ✭✭✭muddypaws


    If she's too over threshold to take treats, then you need to work with her before she starts reacting. Sounds easy hey! ;)

    There is a great website, CARE for reactive dogs http://careforreactivedogs.com/

    If you check out the APDT website, there will be a list of their registered trainers near you. And they are also holding a seminar on 8th/9th October in Port Laoise called Click to Calm by Emma Parsons, might be worth checking out. http://apdt.ie/

    Well done for giving her a chance and best of luck


  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 9,790 Mod ✭✭✭✭DBB


    ^ that seminar/workshop is specifically aimed at reactive dogs op. If there's any chance you could get to it, even for one day, I think you'll learn much of what you need to know... There will be some real problem dogs being used to demo the training techniques... Which are all dog-friendly methods.
    For the record, it is extremely common for reactive dogs not to accept food when confronted with another dog/cat/horse/human etc... The majority of reactive dogs are the way they are due to fear... And who wants to eat when you're feeling scared? There is a tendency amongst people to advise throwing treats around, which is great... As long as the dog will take them! You need to get a little more creative if the dog won't accept treats.

    So... If you've a fearful dog in the presence of something that scares it, what does the fearful dog want most?
    Food? Usually not.
    Praise? Usually not.
    To obtain distance from the scary thing? YES!

    So, you can use "escape from the scary thing" as a reward.... But only in exchange for something positive from her. This is where keeping your distance (at first) really kicks in. Food rewards can still be used later in the sequence, but the first and most powerful reward is to gain distance.
    It's also where having a good behaviourist to show you everything kicks in... It's a little too detailed to go into here, and every dog is different, but to give you a taster, look up Grisha Stewart's Behaviour Adjustment Training (BAT), she has a fair collection of videos on YouTube :)
    Iza Arrieta of The InterPeter is based in south Dublin, she's got a good behavioural qualification ;)


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 1,442 ✭✭✭Choc Chip


    Hey OP, this comment from your post struck me: 'This doesn't work with her, as she wears a muzzle on walks'.

    What type of muzzle is she wearing? If its a basket one then you can feed treats through the bars (once you work through the info in the above posts enough to get her there).

    It's harder to feed treats through the tight nylon muzzles and she wont be able to pant while walking if it keeps her mouth closed which can lead to overheating. I might have interpreted your comment totally wrong, but if its a nylon muzzle its maybe worth getting a basket muzzle to replace it. Sorry, obv not solving your problem but hopefully useful in the long run.

    Eta: I've only mentioned 2 types of muzzle above but there are LOADS out there that might suit. Have a quick google for reviews if (say) you do have a basket but still cant feed treats in a low stress situation.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,422 ✭✭✭Ms Doubtfire1


    hey,
    I have a lurcher too and he was the same. I also have +/- 20 cats and horses.
    He was immedeatly exposed to all kinds of small furries, and there were some hair raising moments but no incidents. I figured out what he finds more interesting than small furries - which was toys. Specifically, a soft, squeaky ball. So, I started walking him outside with the ball, and every time he was inclined to take off, a loud squeak from the ball took his attention away from the other animals. These days, he pays no attention to any small furries. Except for crows.He HATES crows. :D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,611 ✭✭✭muddypaws


    Choc Chip wrote: »
    Hey OP, this comment from your post struck me: 'This doesn't work with her, as she wears a muzzle on walks'.

    What type of muzzle is she wearing? If its a basket one then you can feed treats through the bars (once you work through the info in the above posts enough to get her there).

    It's harder to feed treats through the tight nylon muzzles and she wont be able to pant while walking if it keeps her mouth closed which can lead to overheating. I might have interpreted your comment totally wrong, but if its a nylon muzzle its maybe worth getting a basket muzzle to replace it. Sorry, obv not solving your problem but hopefully useful in the long run.

    Eta: I've only mentioned 2 types of muzzle above but there are LOADS out there that might suit. Have a quick google for reviews if (say) you do have a basket but still cant feed treats in a low stress situation.


    Yeah, I use a basket muzzle on my very reactive boy, and I use the tubes of pate for his treat, they fit through the gaps very nicely, and he absolutely loves them. And squeezy cheese, which isn't the easiest thing to find around here.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 813 ✭✭✭kathleen37


    muddypaws wrote: »
    . And squeezy cheese, which isn't the easiest thing to find around here.

    Primula has been a life saver for me. You can crush up meds and mix it in with it too. And squeeze it into cong toys. AND it's just lovely.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,062 ✭✭✭✭tk123


    muddypaws wrote: »
    Yeah, I use a basket muzzle on my very reactive boy, and I use the tubes of pate for his treat, they fit through the gaps very nicely, and he absolutely loves them. And squeezy cheese, which isn't the easiest thing to find around here.

    Kong Stuff'n would be worth a try too and the nozzle would fit thru the muzzle! It's obviously more artificial than the tubes of paste because it doesn't go off like they do lol! :P

    http://www.zooplus.ie/shop/dogs/dog_toys_dog_training/kongs/kong_stuffpaste/129788


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 861 ✭✭✭ElKavo


    I would second, third, fourth the APDT seminar. I am actually getting the chance to work with my Shadow ( My Dog, not my actual shadow :-) ) on the day, She is highly reactive. I cant wait!


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,648 ✭✭✭desertcircus


    Thanks so much for all the suggestions - we won't be able to make it to the seminar, but the list of trainers on the APDT site is a huge help. We didn't really know where to start!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,062 ✭✭✭✭tk123


    My boy isn't reactive but we've had a few issues to deal with.. Getting somebody to come and look at what's happening is SO helpful and saves so much time because they can tell you what you're doing right and what you're doing wrong/need to improve on where you mightn't even realise yourself.


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