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Applying new paint to paint chips - any advice?

  • 06-09-2016 9:55am
    #1
    yllw.ldbttr
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,678 ✭✭✭


    Does anyone have any advice on what brush or applicator to use?
    I drive 50 km motorway most days and have a few chips on the front of the car. The main dealer gave me a small tub of paint, and said I wouldn't need lacquer.

    I'm not convinced.

    Does anyone have any advice or suggestions on the best way to apply the the paint to ensure a good repair?


Comments

  • #2
    Curran
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    Firstly, its a job you want to have a lot of patience for....do it half arsed, and the spots you 'repair' will look as bad as the stone chips!!

    Pick up a very fine brush - seem a cheap set in Woodies for face painting and one of the brushes looked ideal.
    Treat the chip with rust inhibitor. Layer the paint up in tiny amounts; think filling it with 3 or 4 coats...so you'll need patience. The ideal situation would be to layer it slightly higher than the current paintwork, sand it back slightly and polish up to a near perfect finish.


  • #3
    sebastianlieken
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,778 ✭✭✭sebastianlieken


    Curran wrote: »
    Firstly, its a job you want to have a lot of patience for....do it half arsed, and the spots you 'repair' will look as bad as the stone chips!!

    Pick up a very fine brush - seem a cheap set in Woodies for face painting and one of the brushes looked ideal.
    Treat the chip with rust inhibitor. Layer the paint up in tiny amounts; think filling it with 3 or 4 coats...so you'll need patience. The ideal situation would be to layer it slightly higher than the current paintwork, sand it back slightly and polish up to a near perfect finish.

    Just wanna throw in my two cents of additional info for what has worked well for me;

    before carrying out any repair, clean the area of the stone chip the conventional way and then with an alcohol wipe. alcohol wipe will get rid of any moisture, any wax residue, any grime etc that will ensure the new paint get's the best surface for adhesion.

    secondly, if using a rust inhibitor (only use if you can see bare metal) make sure that this layer is well below the surface of the original paint. If the stone chip is only at the primer, skip the rust inhibitor

    when you have the paint chip filled in with new paint, try keep it *just* above the original paint level, if it's too high above or below it will be a pain / impossible to get flush again.

    wait at least an hour before sanding, give the paint a chance to cure. when sanding, use the highest grade (finest) sandpaper you can get away with to attain a flush surface (use a sanding block or sponge as backing to get even pressure distribution)

    last step is to polish, ideally you'll want a rotary or dual action with a corrective polish (scratch x 2.0 or similar will do) or use the stuff by hand but be prepared to be patient.

    then wait at least 24 hrs before applying a wax again as the paint will still be curing and off gassing.


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