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leisure wiring question for a Freda

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  • 26-08-2016 10:49am
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 6,458 ✭✭✭


    I have 12v starter battery in the freda. I want to add a leisure battery, that will charge from the starter system, but also charge from a 240 hook up when on site. The leisure battery will run the interior lights, fridge/coolbox, 12v tv (eventually) and mabe some usb chargers etc. there shouldnt be a huge draw and I probably wont wild camp, so a 110ah battery should be more than sufficient for when I am not plugged in.

    I was thinking of something like the following set up:

    leisure battery connected to starter via split charge relay, powering the 12v gubbins via a fused control panel with battery level display. Leisure battery connected to a trickle charger, powered by an rcd'd 240v connection when on site.

    Any one have any thoughts on this? (Awaits sirliamalot) :)


Comments

  • Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Gorsh I'ma sucker ferana' lectrical problem.

    You don't actually need a battery if you are usually hooked up. You could probably get by with a few camp lights on rechargeable alkalines.
    All the entry level upper market chargers (Ctek, Victron, Sterling etc..) have load supply mode these days and can do the job of an absent battery on a campsite.

    Better off connecting the habitation battery to the alternator across a relay instead of the starter battery. It'll regulate better but nobody does...myself included :o

    You'll get some charge from the engine with a standard relay setup but really I'd advise cables as fat as your little finger and a relay big enough to hold them.

    I like a manual split charge switch but it's customary to use the D+ to switch it.

    Split_Charge_1.jpg

    [Edit] indicated diode on the D+ is already present on the alternator or in the fuse box. It's there to indicate the circuit but you can ignore it for wiring purposes.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,816 ✭✭✭Alkers


    Only concern would.be the fridge which will use a lot of juice.

    You can get wiring kits from a guy called Karl Chadwick (rooster) online which are reasonably priced and work great for installing a leisure battery, having it power the vehicle lights and charge via a relay. You'd have to talk to him about the hook up functionality though.


  • Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Strictly speaking wiring 240v in a camper is a gig for an electrician accorcingly to the land of the land....

    Requirements are that all cable is 3 core flex of CSA 1.5mm² and all protective switchgear is double pole (polarity insensitive...cos France :rolleyes:)

    395452.jpg

    Without having seen your friend's kits Simona and not knocking a businessman for making a living...every kit I see online is woefully inadequate and doesn't carry a battery monitor. It's all just very small cable and switchgear with too high impedance for a proper charging system. These kits do serve a purpose and they're so bad at charging not being able to handle high currents is never an issue.

    I'm running cables this fat between my batteries and getting 20A average from a 150A alternator.


    DSC_0714_zpsbc7bf7f2.jpg

    90mm² next to 3 x 1.5mm²
    Simona1986 wrote: »
    Only concern would.be the fridge which will use a lot of juice.

    The only way it won't do that is if you don't use it! :pac:

    I mostly power mine with the inverter..it works far better, no burnt up high current switch, no voltage drop, automatic thermostat.


  • Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    395455.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,458 ✭✭✭lennymc


    so I bought a kit online

    s-l1600.jpg

    Also, for the 240v hook I was going to use this (with a shortened lead and a flappy 240v inlet thingy on the van)

    s-l225.jpg


    And got a zig marque1 panel.


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  • Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    That kit looks the business, what gauge are the cables? I'd upgade the contactor

    s-l225.jpg

    and get a ratcheting crimp tool.

    41LPCfJRQXL.jpg




    Mains:

    s-l225.jpg


    Garage Consumer Unit


    If you get a larger consumer unit enclosure you can retrofit a changeover relay on the DIN rail later and fit double pole MCBs, or you can use a separate 4U enclosure for the relay and have two neat 4U enclosures.

    8U Enclosure;
    2U: 16A RCBO B-type 30mA,
    2U: 6A RCBO B-type 30mA,
    2U: Changeover Relay DPDT
    2U: Wiring wiggle room


    mains_inlet.jpg


    Latching Flush Fit Mains Inlet



    sgamain01.gif


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,458 ✭✭✭lennymc


    thanks sir liamalot - will have a look at those now.

    ebay link to kit - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261494971188

    Contents.

    12v heavy duty 100amp relay.
    3mtrs 42amp 6mm2 Thin wall red cable to charge your Leisure battery(s)
    1mtr 42 amp 6mm2 Thin wall black cable to earth your leisure battery(s)
    2mtrs of 9amp red cable to switch your relay on.
    2mtres of 9amp black cable to earth your relay.
    2 x Fuse holders & Fuses including a 2 spares.
    Crimp or Solder Terminals to connect everything together.
    Heat shrink to protect all the connections.
    15 x Cable ties + 10 x adhesive cable tie fixings to keep everything tidy.
    15 x fixing screws
    Drill bit
    2 x sticky pads to use if required
    2mtr Split conduit to protect cables in Engine bay.
    Easy to understand Fitting Instructions, wiring Diagram + after sales support if required


  • Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    I prefer 35mm² for the battery to relay to battery link, welding cable. I'd use the 6mm² for the appliances.

    Screw down the cable tie fixings they're not vibration proof.


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