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Pocket hole vs dowel - which jig to buy

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  • 23-08-2016 2:24pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 109 ✭✭


    Hi all,

    Which might be a better option to have as my first jig purchase?

    Both seem similar, is either more versatile?

    I am a budget hobbyist/functional wood worker and i'm trying to build up some tools to make life easier.

    Looking at some of the Kreg jigs, or something like the Wolfcraft - B4640 Dowelmaster or the Joint Genie
    I'll be working on fitting a mini workshop and a few outdoor projects (benches etc)

    I'd be willing to splash a bit of cash (up to €100) if it'd be worth it.

    Any thoughts? Or recommendations on units/places to buy?

    Your opinions would be appreciated! :)
    Tagged:


Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 3,695 ✭✭✭galwaydude18


    Kreg jig all the way. It's a strong joint and pulls joints together as well without clamps


  • Registered Users Posts: 109 ✭✭eoinp11


    which version you get? so far it seems amazon is the best place for it.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,124 ✭✭✭jonon9


    Personalty I prefer dowels over pocket holes I think their stronger almost like a mortice but that really depends on what your making. Stuff for home I chose dowels, stuff for the workshop pocket holes just my two cents.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,804 ✭✭✭recipio


    The Kreg jig is invaluable ( have a look at the Axminster UJK range as well ) . You can do box units and shelving etc very quickly as long as you don't mind the pocket holes on display - there are plastic and wooden plugs for them.
    Dowel joints are stronger no doubt but you need a set of sash clamps to pull them together. They are also finicky in use and most woodworkers move on to a biscuit joiner when funds allow.


  • Registered Users Posts: 879 ✭✭✭woodturner


    They both have their place. You'd probably use the pocket hole jig a lot more but you'll come across situations where dowels could only work. It really depends on the size of the pieces to be joined. If they were very narrow a pocket screw could split the wood and a biscuit jointer would be out of the equation altogether.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,577 ✭✭✭Bonzo Delaney


    Her indoors bought me the trend pocket hole jig kit as a birthday present about 2007 still going strong both the jig and herself.
    A great piece of kit just had to buy a new stepped drill bit after it got blunt very useful on site where items have to be made up quickly and put together with out cramps. Invaluable in any finishing carpenters/joiners tool box imo


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,804 ✭✭✭recipio


    You can get a 3/8" plug cutter from Rutlands which cuts the pocket hole plugs from the wood you are working with. It makes an exact match.


  • Registered Users Posts: 378 ✭✭Fingalian


    I have been using the UJK pocket hole jig for the last two years. Great bit of kit. Very handy for face frames and generally knocking stuff up quickly. I have a Miles craft dowel jig but find it a bit fiddly. Horses for courses though. Bought the pocket jig here:

    http://www.goughtools.com/


  • Registered Users Posts: 109 ✭✭eoinp11


    With the pocket jig, would it be a good idea to get the clamp that they sell for actually screwing it together?

    Like a face clamp or a right angle clamp?

    Is there much difference between the 2? I would imagine a face clamp would work much like a regular clamp, but a right angle clamp would be special to the pocket jig? (so it can go in the pocket hole)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 9,764 ✭✭✭my3cents


    You definitely need to clamp the jig to make a good joint but you don't need to waste money on the Kreg clamp. I do use it sometimes without a clamp but only on rough work like a stud partition. Also no need to buy the different screws they sell I use the Kreg R3 https://www.amazon.co.uk/Kreg-185823-Jig-R3/dp/B0088CPBRE/ a good bit and use mainly 50mm PZ2 chipboard screws with it. Depending on the current bit system you use and chuck (how fat it is) on your drill/driver you may also need an extension to use std screws.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 109 ✭✭eoinp11


    Yea the R3 is now what i am looking at! What is the diameter of the circle with the kreg clamp? I have a clamp with a circular face, maybe that'll slot in nice.. would a regular clamp do the job you reckon?

    How about for when you are screwing the wood together. just hold it and hope it remains flush?

    As for screws, no splitting with regular screws? I heard it needs a flat/wide head (like a washer) as in this video here

    Do you have a place for good value screws? I've been getting them from amazon.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,804 ✭✭✭recipio


    eoinp11 wrote: »
    Yea the R3 is now what i am looking at! What is the diameter of the circle with the kreg clamp? I have a clamp with a circular face, maybe that'll slot in nice.. would a regular clamp do the job you reckon?

    How about for when you are screwing the wood together. just hold it and hope it remains flush?

    As for screws, no splitting with regular screws? I heard it needs a flat/wide head (like a washer) as in this video here

    Do you have a place for good value screws? I've been getting them from amazon.

    I'd save up and get a lever action jig - doesn't matter what brand. When you are making something with a lot of joints like a face frame its good to have the jig calibrated for depth and the lines on the jig give a quick reference for placing the wood. Personally I like the UJK clamps from Axminster - they have round disks on both sides and are useful for all kinds of clamping without marking the wood.
    I'ts also important to have coarse threads for man made boards and fine threads for hardwoods. 25 and 30mm are all you are ever likely to use.


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