Convert to single chainring - advice wanted

Joey Joe-Joe Jr

My commuter has a 2x9 setup. Its a flat commute and a few months back, when I snapped the front gear cable, I decided to use the trim screw to hold the front mech to the big ring position.
The gearing is working out fine for me so now I'd like to just get rid of the front mech altogether. (I do use the full range on the 9 speed block so i get some chain rub on the mech in 1st and 9th)
Not sure how to approach this. Is it possible to convert the existing chainset or should I get a dedicated single chainset?

Any advice welcome. (I'm currently away so I cant actually look at the existing one to see whats possible.)
Its a Truvative Elita - http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ie/en/truvativ-elita-2-1-compact-9sp-double-chainset/rp-prod105889

lennymc

go for a narrow wide chainring up front - you can get them for 110 bcd, some narrower chainring bolts and do away with the shifter and derailler and cables.

superstar components sell them and sometimes have discount on their facebook page. I use one on my cx bike and it has been fine.

Joey Joe-Joe Jr

Top man Lenny.
I had never heard of a narrow wide chainring before. For a second I thought it was a "glass hammer" "can of stripey paint" type thing!!:D

So if I understand correctly, I undo the 5 bolts, remove the two existing rings, install the narrow wide chainring using the shorter bolts. So the shorter bolts pull the ring (and thus the chain) into a more central position. Right?

Alek

You don't need N/W ring for a commute, unless you go off road

Narrow/wide design prevents the chain from dropping when you hit the ground / root/ grass hard, on the road its not that necessary.

I run 1x10 setup for everything except touring and initially used a normal 36T middle chainring. And even managed get through 2 CX races (very bumpy stuff!) on it, with maybe 1 chain drop.

Now on Superstar 38T N/W btw.

Joey Joe-Joe Jr

Thanks for the info Alek.

A lot of my commute is along the Dodder path from Rathfarnham out to Tallaght so there are some bumpy bits and a few dismounts/remounts at gates, etc. so I might go with the narrow wide for extra reassurance. I retired from CX after a very short but very glorious career.
Maybe the comeback is on...

lennymc

You don't neeeed gears for a commute either alek n/w isn't a necessity but if you get a 38 it will give you a nice range of gears plus it will look infinitely better and gain extra kudos. I also raced cx on a 32 road ring but it dropped a few times. The n/w hasn't dropped yet.

rtmie

Apologies if I am hijacking here.
I have been toying with a similar idea for ages but do not have the understanding to proceed. In my case there is a triple fsa tempo crankset and the middle ring is a 42. At no stage on my commute have I ever been on any ring other than the middle, and the bike is only used for commute.
Would it be realistic to just remove the inner and outer rings and the front derailleur or would I keep losing the chain.

lennymc

you may lose the chain depending on how rough the commute is. If you wanted to removed the outer ring you would still need the narrower crank bolts. N/W is designed to grab the chain and prevent droppage.

http://www.bicycling.com/bikes-gear/reviews/should-you-get-1x-drivetrain-your-road-bike some info on 1*x
I like it on the cx bike, but I think it would be restrictive (for me) on my commute. Not low enough gearing for downhill stuff and not high enough for uphill stuff.

rtmie

So ,and do pardon my ignorance, is the solution to remove all 3 rings and add something like: http://www.superstarcomponents.com/en/cyclocross-io-chainring-narrow-wide-style.htm

Or do I need to replace crankset?

Alek

Lenny - I dropped the chain 3 times from the Superstar ring in the Kilternan race last year. It was super muddy and it turned out that mud literally lifts the chain from the teeth... I finished running :-)

Wolftooth components is openly saing that n/w rings do not work in a mudfest like that.

Mr. Grieves

OP, buy some short chairing bolts, take off your derailleur and other chairing(s) and try it out for a few days. If you find you're dropping the chain, look at getting the narrow wide. You may also decide you want a different size. Somewhere around 38 to 42 is good in my experience.

Alek

lennymc wrote:

some info on 1*x I like it on the cx bike, but I think it would be restrictive (for me) on my commute. Not low enough gearing for downhill stuff and not high enough for uphill stuff.

38 + 11-32 can take me anywhere on this island :-) But then I spin out at 55kph or thereabouts. I'd say 42 + 11-36 would be ideal if not so incredibly gappy.

Joey Joe-Joe Jr

Thanks for all the help folks.

I believe in Mr Grieves ... so I'll get some shorter bolts and get rid of the small ring and see how I go.

BTW, I'm currently using a 48 with a 28/11 - How many extra kudos do i get? 8-)

lennymc

@ alek - i dont think anything is guaranteed to survive a mudfest. Even with chain catchers and guides and stuff, if the mud is getting between the chain and ring it is gonna come off.

@rtmie, you shouldnt need a new crank