Need help with new light switch, (L-IN, Out-A)

tandcapply

Hi, I've a five year old 1 Gang light switch (see old.jpg). The following cables are connected:
L1 - one brown wire.
L2 - empty.
Common - two brown wire.
*In the box but not connected anywhere are two blue wires and earth (yellow/green)

The new light switch has N-IN, L-IN, OUT-A and OUT-B (see new.jpg).

Can the new switch work with the existing wires/wiring?
If so, what way should it be wired (I've already tried moving the two cables as is to Out-A/L-IN and L-IN/Out-A without any power.

I'm using light saver CFL if it matters.

brightspark

Where did you get the switch?

Skihunta13

tandcapply wrote: »

Hi, I've a five year old 1 Gang light switch (see old.jpg). The following cables are connected:
L1 - one brown wire.
L2 - empty.
Common - two brown wire.
*In the box but not connected anywhere are two blue wires and earth (yellow/green)

The new light switch has N-IN, L-IN, OUT-A and OUT-B (see new.jpg).

Can the new switch work with the existing wires/wiring?
If so, what way should it be wired (I've already tried moving the two cables as is to Out-A/L-IN and L-IN/Out-A without any power.

I'm using light saver CFL if it matters.

Hi. Is there a neon on the new switch or a sensor?
The blue cables that are joined at the back of box should go into N-in. The 2 Browns that was in the common should go into L-in. Then the brown that was in L1 should go to A-out. Isolate power at board. If it is a sensor switch you may need to set up.

tandcapply

brightspark wrote: »

Where did you get the switch?

Hi, I got it from Ebay:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-Channel-RF-Digital-Wireless-Remote-Control-Switch-Power-for-Lighting-220V-50HZ-/291308755389?hash=item43d35ad9bd:g:ukUAAOSw~gRV6pHe

tandcapply

Skihunta13 wrote: »

Hi. Is there a neon on the new switch or a sensor?
The blue cables that are joined at the back of box should go into N-in. The 2 Browns that was in the common should go into L-in. Then the brown that was in L1 should go to A-out. Isolate power at board. If it is a sensor switch you may need to set up.

It's a remote controlled light switch. Here's what it looks like:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-Channel-RF-Digital-Wireless-Remote-Control-Switch-Power-for-Lighting-220V-50HZ-/291308755389?hash=item43d35ad9bd:g:ukUAAOSw~gRV6pHe

Skihunta13

You will need to connect your neutrals to that switch for it to work.

brightspark

Can't find any info about that switch as already stated it probably needs a neutral. (The blue wires? But no certainty that the blue wires are neutral conductors)

It's also possible that the switch isn't suitable for cfls.

tandcapply

brightspark wrote: »

Can't find any info about that switch as already stated it probably needs a neutral. (The blue wires? But no certainty that the blue wires are neutral conductors)

It's also possible that the switch isn't suitable for cfls.

Thanks, there are three blue wires on the connector (see attached). Should the three go into the N-IN maybe?

brightspark

tandcapply wrote: »

Thanks, there are three blue wires on the connector (see attached). Should the three go into the N-IN maybe?

Most likely yes, but as I can't measure it with a multimeter I have no way to be certain!

Edit.


Don't open that connection unless you have all the power off. You can get a shock from neutral wires.

tandcapply

brightspark wrote: »

Most likely yes, but as I can't measure it with a multimeter I have no way to be certain!

Edit.


Don't open that connection unless you have all the power off. You can get a shock from neutral wires.

Thanks, the good news is that I got it to work.
The only issue now is that the box isn't deep enough for it

brightspark

Far too much copper exposed!

tandcapply

brightspark wrote: »

Far too much copper exposed!

Thanks,
I replaced it back until I figure out box extender.

tandcapply

I bought a box extender and have wired it back up.

Is it okay if I used the connector with 3xblue Neutral wires on one side and 1xWhite cable on the other going into the switch box?

Now the flipping remote control doesn't work but I'll sort it out.

Skihunta13

tandcapply wrote: »

I bought a box extender and have wired it back up.

Is it okay if I used the connector with 3xblue Neutral wires on one side and 1xWhite cable on the other going into the switch box?

Now the flipping remote control doesn't work but I'll sort it out.

You should be using blue cable rated for 230v. Can't make out what that white cable is, may not be rated for 230 volt. You can do the joint in the recessed box and pass the cables through the surface box. The surface box looks too shallow to fit the switch into. You could be putting those connections under pressure.

tandcapply

Skihunta13 wrote: »

You should be using blue cable rated for 230v. Can't make out what that white cable is, may not be rated for 230 volt. You can do the joint in the recessed box and pass the cables through the surface box. The surface box looks too shallow to fit the switch into. You could be putting those connections under pressure.

Cheers, The white wire came from a leftover wire that had brown,black , yellow/green and blue wires, looks the same to me but I'll check as nothing written on the wire.

The (25mm) extender box is mounted directly onto the recessed one (16mm) using 50mm screws, I broke the back of the Extender box so all the wires are hidden well behind the switch box.

I've included pictures of the wire and the mounted switch.

Skihunta13

tandcapply wrote: »

Cheers, The white wire came from a leftover wire that had brown,black , yellow/green and blue wires, looks the same to me but I'll check as nothing written on the wire.

The (25mm) extender box is mounted directly onto the recessed one (16mm) using 50mm screws, I broke the back of the Extender box so all the wires are hidden well behind the switch box.

I've included pictures of the wire and the mounted switch.

That's the job now. It's the grey core from a NYMJ cable. It's ok for 230v but would be preferable to use the blue core instead of the grey. Grey is a phase colour and may confuse the next person to look at it.

tandcapply

Skihunta13 wrote: »

That's the job now. It's the grey core from a NYMJ cable. It's ok for 230v but would be preferable to use the blue core instead of the grey. Grey is a phase colour and may confuse the next person to look at it.

Thanks