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Altea airbag light

  • 28-07-2016 9:39am
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 501 ✭✭✭


    Folks,

    Light has been on for a while now, my own fault due to a lack of time getting it sorted!

    I've been told that it's the connection under the passenger seat and to cut off the connector, join the wires without solder as this puts resistance in the circuit and just heat shrink them when completed.

    Just wondering, is there any fear of setting off the bags, should I disconnect the battery......what steps should be taken??

    Thanks!!


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,594 ✭✭✭tossy


    FR85 wrote: »
    Folks,

    Light has been on for a while now, my own fault due to a lack of time getting it sorted!

    I've been told that it's the connection under the passenger seat and to cut off the connector, join the wires without solder as this puts resistance in the circuit and just heat shrink them when completed.

    Just wondering, is there any fear of setting off the bags, should I disconnect the battery......what steps should be taken??

    Thanks!!

    Have you had the car scanned to determine that it's the passenger side airbag?

    Usually disconnecting the plug and cleaning the contacts will have the same effect.

    I wouldn't do what was advised to you at all. I'd rather cut off the connector blocks and splice them together. Air bags work off resistance and the solder might impede that, but cleaning the plug is a better option

    Either way you will still need to have the light cleared with some diagnostic software to make it go off.

    Where are you based?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 501 ✭✭✭FR85


    I work in Dublin but am living in Sallins.

    The car was scanned and codes cleared, light stayed out for a year or so then the seat was moved to fit a lanky chap in the back and on the light came again. The same guy who looked at it the first time said the connections were prone to going and that eliminating the connection and joining the wires was the cleanest way to go.

    Seat Ireland have been no help as per usual and it was a well known and helpful northern dealer who also pointed me in this direction....

    I have been looking out for two front seats anyway as the drivers seat has a rip in it but FR seats are hard to come by!!!


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 7,569 ✭✭✭Special Circumstances


    FR85 wrote: »
    join the wires without solder as this puts resistance in the circuit and just heat shrink them when completed.

    24808BP.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 706 ✭✭✭the boss of me


    I had the same problem with my old Octavia. Any time I stuck a rag or anything in under the driver seat the light came on. I bought a diagnostic tool for about 20 euro from Amazon and switched the light off. It seems to be a common problem on the VAG cars.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,594 ✭✭✭tossy


    FR85 wrote: »
    I work in Dublin but am living in Sallins.

    The car was scanned and codes cleared, light stayed out for a year or so then the seat was moved to fit a lanky chap in the back and on the light came again. The same guy who looked at it the first time said the connections were prone to going and that eliminating the connection and joining the wires was the cleanest way to go.

    Seat Ireland have been no help as per usual and it was a well known and helpful northern dealer who also pointed me in this direction....

    I have been looking out for two front seats anyway as the drivers seat has a rip in it but FR seats are hard to come by!!!

    I live just outside Newbridge, i travel through Sallins a fair bit. If you want me to show you how to clean the connectors and clear the fault for you some evening give me a shout.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 81,220 ✭✭✭✭biko


    Image
    Instead of being funny and not helping OP, how about you explain why this is not a good idea instead? That would actually help OP.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 501 ✭✭✭FR85


    biko wrote: »
    Instead of being funny and not helping OP, how about you explain why this is not a good idea instead? That would actually help OP.

    I had been wondering that myself! Cheers!

    Tossy, that would be super cool!! Will pop you a pm at some stage, hectic in work and my evening don't seem to be my own anymore but that would be cool!!


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 7,569 ✭✭✭Special Circumstances


    biko wrote: »
    Instead of being funny and not helping OP, how about you explain why this is not a good idea instead? That would actually help OP.

    It's personal preference I suppose - personally I don't like ("no me gusta") the "twisht em up an tape em lad" approach.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 501 ✭✭✭FR85


    It's personal preference I suppose - personally I don't like ("no me gusta") the "twisht em up an tape em lad" approach.

    That is what a reliable source told me to do, the connectors are prone to dying and solder adds to the problem........uhhh I dunno!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 81,220 ✭✭✭✭biko


    Yeah I've no particular problem with that approach either.

    I usually go for number 5 in this image but all can be used


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,594 ✭✭✭tossy


    biko wrote: »
    Yeah I've no particular problem with that approach either.

    I usually go for number 5 in this image but all can be used

    Which would probably be the worst way to splice an airbag connector. 1 or 2 with a heat shrink is what i've used when splicing on a new connector block in the past.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 7,569 ✭✭✭Special Circumstances


    I totally did not foresee the age old "best way to join two wires" debate opening up here again. Ay ay ay, no es bueno.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 81,220 ✭✭✭✭biko


    Hah, can of worms is open :D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 501 ✭✭✭FR85


    And it's all my fault....mods, lifetime ban!!! :D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,488 ✭✭✭Bazzy


    number 5 is the best twisting the copper together can affect resistance


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 81,220 ✭✭✭✭biko


    The reason I use 5 is that it is strongest, and less like to come apart ever if there is pulling at the ends for whatever reason.
    If someone can convince me otherwise I'm happy to change my ways.


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