How to hang wooden beams from wall to wall in my garage

armabelle

Hi there

I have a real easy DIY question. I have a garage that is 6 meters X 3 meters about and want to convert it into a studio. I need to create a ceiling which I will fill with insulation. What I need to do is to hang wooden beams across the width of the garage about 50cm below the actual ceiling as in the diagram and staple fabric across it. I then intend to stuff it with insulation.

What is the easiest way to do this? It doesn't need to support a lot of weight as the insulation is light but it should be sturdy.

THanks in advance for any help!

Steve

Ask about joist hangers in your local builders providers.

RobAMerc

what ceiling is currently there ?

Could you not just fix insulated plasterboard directly to the current ceiling ?

You'll have an instant surface to skim and finish.

armabelle

RobAMerc wrote: »

what ceiling is currently there ?

Could you not just fix insulated plasterboard directly to the current ceiling ?

You'll have an instant surface to skim and finish.

there is a plywood ceiling and an attic above

I won't be putting plasterboard up, just the insulation with fabric over it. For the acoustic treatment to be effective

1) there needs to be an air gap behind the insulation
2) the insulation needs to cover the entire area with only a breathable fabric covering the insulation
3) The insulation should not be compressed nor sag (This shouldn't be a problam in my case as the insulation will be laid down vertically in sheets)

armabelle

Steve wrote: »

Ask about joist hangers in your local builders providers.

This seems like what I am looking for. Do you think the beams will keep straight over a 2.9meter width or do you think they might sag slightly in the middle?

thank you!

Calahonda52

50mm by 20mm far too light for such a span, even with noggins at the third or quarter points..
For us to learn more, what is the objective here and what is the exact spec u have to work from/with
are u working above or below the ply ceiling?

armabelle

Calahonda52 wrote: »

50mm by 20mm far too light for such a span, even with noggins at the third or quarter points..
For us to learn more, what is the objective here and what is the exact spec u have to work from/with
are u working above or below the ply ceiling?

Ok so I have a garage. I want to use it as a recording space. The ceiling is too low for recording music so we add absorptive material spanning the entire ceiling. This absorptive material is normal insulation but it can't be attached directly to the ceiling. The insulation must be covered with fabric which can be stapled to the wooden beams which would sit around 500mm below the actual ceiling as mentioned in OP. In between the beams and plywood ceiling would be insulation. Did this clarify?

Stheno

Do you own the garage?

armabelle

Stheno wrote: »

Do you own the garage?

Why do you ask?

Stheno

armabelle wrote: »

Why do you ask?

Because if you rent it or it's part of a rented property, you need to get the landlords agreement to do what you want to do

Calahonda52

armabelle wrote: »

Ok so I have a garage. I want to use it as a recording space. The ceiling is too low for recording music so we add absorptive material spanning the entire ceiling. This absorptive material is normal insulation but it can't be attached directly to the ceiling. The insulation must be covered with fabric which can be stapled to the wooden beams which would sit around 500mm below the actual ceiling as mentioned in OP. In between the beams and plywood ceiling would be insulation. Did this clarify?

Sound out:D

Insulation that is used for sound attenuation tends to be heavy so yo need to get the death planned and the density from the supplier so as you can do a loading calculation.
The denser the material the better.

I have my doubts re the degree of sound attenuation this setup will achieve as you are doing nothing to stop air movement and are "hoping" enough insulation will do that.

Perhaps you need to rethink it a bit.
Anyway 50 by 20 way too light and if you do go stapling the fabric, I would suggest augmenting it with strips of timber screwed to the underside of the joists

I would use something like the attached and thing of screwing some denser material to the underside.

armabelle

Stheno wrote: »

Because if you rent it or it's part of a rented property, you need to get the landlords agreement to do what you want to do

thank you for your concern, but let me worry about that

armabelle

Calahonda52 wrote: »

Sound out:D

Insulation that is used for sound attenuation tends to be heavy so yo need to get the death planned and the density from the supplier so as you can do a loading calculation.
The denser the material the better.

I have my doubts re the degree of sound attenuation this setup will achieve as you are doing nothing to stop air movement and are "hoping" enough insulation will do that.

Perhaps you need to rethink it a bit.
Anyway 50 by 20 way too light and if you do go stapling the fabric, I would suggest augmenting it with strips of timber screwed to the underside of the joists

I would use something like the attached and thing of screwing some denser material to the underside.

thanks but the insulation is really lightweight material and as far as acoustical properties are concerned, I know what I am doing. Just need help on getting the beams up.

Thanks for your idea, very helpful indeed!

regi3457

I think you may have to use thicker timber and perhaps have the beam sideways rather than flat if that makes sense so it doesn't dip in the middle. The first posters idea was probably the simplest. I would go with that. Good luck with the music!

Calahonda52

Happy to HEAR that... No problem, there are also I joists which will also sit into the right size hanger.
What you MAY find easier is to fit a trimmer timber to the wall at each end and then screw/nail the joist hangers to them, much easier to do than onto the concrete: you could put a trip of acoustic rubber between the trimmer and the wall to help with sound transmission.
Keep well, over and out

armabelle

Calahonda52 wrote: »

Happy to HEAR that... No problem, there are also I joists which will also sit into the right size hanger.
What you MAY find easier is to fit a trimmer timber to the wall at each end and then screw/nail the joist hangers to them, much easier to do than onto the concrete: you could put a trip of acoustic rubber between the trimmer and the wall to help with sound transmission.
Keep well, over and out

Yeah that sounds like a great plan. How would you attach the timber to the wall though? Do you get specific masonry screws for this?

Calahonda52

armabelle wrote: »

Yeah that sounds like a great plan. How would you attach the timber to the wall though? Do you get specific masonry screws for this?

What are the blocks walls, hollow block or cavity block.
THIS IS NOT A DESIGN:D
If cavity wall
I would use compress nails in pairs, top and bottom of the trimmer beam.
maybe 10 or 12 mm diameter at 600 centres.
Maybe some others have other ideas

ps compress nails are one way so you had better be sure....

armabelle

Steve wrote: »

Ask about joist hangers in your local builders providers.

Hi Steve, I followed your advice and got me some joist hangers however a problem dawned upon me. The joist hangers are fine so long as there is space for the fixing. If you look at my diagram (diagram 2) you will see the two beams flush with the wall on either end. The joist hangers wouldn't work there. What can I do about these two studs?

GrumpyMe

You can get various types like

Steve

What GrumpyMe said - or - just bolt the joist to the end wall directly.

armabelle

Steve wrote: »

What GrumpyMe said - or - just bolt the joist to the end wall directly.

Could I use something like this to screw the joist to the wall directly? I would drill with a masonry bit first right?

armabelle

GrumpyMe wrote: »

You can get various types like

never saw these at my diy store but will go back and check

cheers!