Need advice on what to do.

dasa29

Here is the story my 01 Yaris (76700mls) failed the nct and needs work. According to the garage the following needs to be done.

2 rear shoes
2rear wheel cylinders
rear equalizer valve
2 rear shocks
rear hand brake cables
total cost including labour and vat €970

most of the cost is the rear equalizer valve which is €350 on its own. From what i understand one of the mechanics at the garage had the same problem he managed to get 2 second hand ones but in the end he still had to get a new part as they did not work out.

my opinions are
1 fix car get through nct and save up to get new car next year

2 trade the car plus a loan from the credit union to get a new car but am not working so not sure how much i will get for loan.

Atlantic Dawn

Option 3 would be to get the work done and keep the car until it fails on something else major hopefully not for a few years.

colm_mcm

Or option 3, get as much of that stuff as you can second hand.

robtri

what did the NCT say was wrong with the car??

bear1

If you aren't working then id honestly stay well away from a loan.
I dont think you'd even get one at this stage.
Take it to another garage for another opinion.
If it works out cheaper get it done and let it continue on until the next thing goes and get rid.
Or flog it for 400e with the nct fail sheet and let it be someone else's issue.

savagethegoat

robtri wrote: »

what did the NCT say was wrong with the car??

this put it through NCT and see what it actually fails on , then decide.

colm_mcm

Id imagine it's already failed on rear brakes. I'd transplant hubs, cables and all off a different car.

dasa29

Atlantic Dawn wrote: »

Option 3 would be to get the work done and keep the car until it fails on something else major hopefully not for a few years.

Just in now was busy I think given the fact I am not working and have been put in with ceetec for the year I might get it fixed and start putting what I can by in the credit union and maybe in a year or two try and get something new.

the car failed the nct on the 24/06/16
it failed on rear axle(shocks) the imbalance was 47%
it also failed on parking brake the imbalance was 89% and effort was 13%
thay stated that the near side rear brake was sticking.

I have till the 24/07/2016 for the retest, otherwise i would be paying for a full test again.

porsche boy

What garage quoted that?
The brake equaliser valve can be freed out if it's stuck. Have the rear shocks, shoes & cylinders replaced and the valve removed, cleaned & lubed. This should not cost more than €450ish.

dasa29

porsche boy wrote: »

What garage quoted that?
The brake equaliser valve can be freed out if it's stuck. Have the rear shocks, shoes & cylinders replaced and the valve removed, cleaned & lubed. This should not cost more than €450ish.

my local toyota garage gave me the quote. i asked about doing everything else and leave the brake equaliser valve, but he said if the imbalace was around 60% we might have got away with it. He is going to call me tomorrow so will see what he says about having it cleaned and lubed.

colm_mcm

don't bring an old car near a dealer. They have to do everything by the book. which is fine on a new car under warranty where Toyota are footing the bill for parts but is madness on an older car.

get a half decent mechanic who knows how to get you back on the road cheaply.

dasa29

colm_mcm wrote: »

don't bring an old car near a dealer. They have to do everything by the book. which is fine on a new car under warranty where Toyota are footing the bill for parts but is madness on an older car.

get a half decent mechanic who knows how to get you back on the road cheaply.

While you might be right they do have easier access to parts that might be hard to get. i have looked for the part for the last few days after i got the part number from the garage and have not found any for under the price they are asking.

going by its part number it is also known as brake pressure regulator.

colm_mcm

get one second hand.

dasa29

colm_mcm wrote: »

get one second hand.

From what i understand one of their mechanics had the same problem with his own yaris and got not 1 but 2 second hand brake equalizer valves for it. They did not work out and he still ended up having to get the part new.

FortySeven

dasa29 wrote: »

From what i understand one of their mechanics had the same problem with his own yaris and got not 1 but 2 second hand brake equalizer valves for it. They did not work out and he still ended up having to get the part new.

Take the advice op. Go secondhand or have the equaliser valve disassembled and cleaned, lubed.

Don't go near a dealer with a car that old. It is madness. Aftermarket parts for your car are cheap, there is nothing uncommon or hard to source except for that valve which as many have said, can be found at any scrapyard, there are a lot of yaris scrapped of your vintage. You might even get one on ebay with a bit of warranty. Get an indi to fit the parts. Pass NCT.

Remember that the dealership is a business. They do not have your interests at heart before their own.

Go to a motor factor with your reg, ask for firstline brake cables, mintex or blueprint shoes, mintex shoe fitting kit, kyb rear shocks and generic whatever cylinders. Then ask them for their best price. You will leave in a happier place.

dasa29

FortySeven wrote: »

Take the advice op. Go secondhand or have the equaliser valve disassembled and cleaned, lubed.

Don't go near a dealer with a car that old. It is madness. Aftermarket parts for your car are cheap, there is nothing uncommon or hard to source except for that valve which as many have said, can be found at any scrapyard, there are a lot of yaris scrapped of your vintage. You might even get one on ebay with a bit of warranty. Get an indi to fit the parts. Pass NCT.

Remember that the dealership is a business. They do not have your interests at heart before their own.

Go to a motor factor with your reg, ask for firstline brake cables, mintex or blueprint shoes, mintex shoe fitting kit, kyb rear shocks and generic whatever cylinders. Then ask them for their best price. You will leave in a happier place.

i understand what your saying and maybe your right. i have looked at different parts sites for the prices of the parts needed and i cant see much difference between them and the dealer. i got a breakdown of the costs from the garage. i will ask the lad i am dealing with in the morning if cleaning and lubeing would make a difference.

Esel

Sounds to me you are talking yourself into going with the main dealer, despite the advice to the contrary.

Boater123

Esel wrote: »

Sounds to me you are talking yourself into going with the main dealer, despite the advice to the contrary.

I agree.

Just bring it to an independent mechanic with the fail sheet and ask for a price to pass the NCT. Just see what they say, you're under no obligation to go with the indie, but it might give you a better choice.

dasa29

Just to update this.

Esel and Boater123 while you wore right about me talking myself into going with the main dealer, despite the advice to the contrary. I did talk to a lad I know who works in a garage and the only thing he thought I was being over charged on was the labour and he said an independent mechanic would have gone to Toyota for the rear equalizer valve as it was only place to get it.

So what happened was this.

I left the car in to Grange Motors (Toyota) first thing on Monday 18 July and they said it would be ready by that afternoon. I got a call from them about 3:30 to tell me it was taking longer than they thought to get the old parts off and it would not be ready till Tuesday morning. When I did not hear from them I called after lunch to be told they were just finished the work and had to do a few checks on things. I asked had the bill changed and was told no change. Got the final call that it was finished at 10 to 4 on Tuesday and they sent a car to pick me up. I went in to reception and got the bill which was for €950. So it ended up €20 less than I was quoted originally even though it took them the guts of two days to do it.

I put it trough the NCT retest today and it passed with flying colours.

wonski

I know it's your money and your call, but you could have saved couple of hundreds.

950 euro main dealer fix on 01 Yaris was not necessary imo.

colm_mcm

You'd buy another Yaris for that.

beauf

dasa29 wrote: »

...I did talk to a lad I know who works in a garage and the only thing he thought I was being over charged on was the labour and he said an independent mechanic would have gone to Toyota for the rear equalizer valve as it was only place to get it....

The only way to do this is to get a couple of quotes from different places independent and the dealer.

All you are doing is making up excuses for shopping around in the first place. I'm not saying that was wrong but, its choice you made to go the most expensive route.

If you have an older car you need to establish a relationship with a independent who you trust to look after the car.

Cheensbo

So the OP got advice from multiple different sources (people who know what they're talking about for sure) on here, ignored it, spoke to a lad who works in a garage and then took it to toyota themselves?

As colm says, you'd get another yaris for that, and to be honest you'd have had it fixed for probably less than half what you paid if following the advice on here.

If something else goes wrong now what happens? Does one pump loads more cash in or cut the (now huge) losses?

dasa29

Cheensbo wrote: »

So the OP got advice from multiple different sources (people who know what they're talking about for sure) on here, ignored it, spoke to a lad who works in a garage and then took it to toyota themselves?

As colm says, you'd get another yaris for that, and to be honest you'd have had it fixed for probably less than half what you paid if following the advice on here.

If something else goes wrong now what happens? Does one pump loads more cash in or cut the (now huge) losses?

While I understand what you are saying but would it make a difference that I left the car in just after 9am on Monday 18th July and I got the call to say it was finished at 3:50pm on Tuesday 19th July. I was surprised that even though it took them longer than they thought they did not add it to the bill.

punisher5112

dasa29 wrote: »

While I understand what you are saying but would it make a difference that I left the car in just after 9am on Monday 18th July and I got the call to say it was finished at 3:50pm on Tuesday 19th July. I was surprised that even though it took them longer than they thought they did not add it to the bill.

Add what to the bill. The car was probably worked on for 2 hours 1st day and another little bit the next day. They don't just take in one car and fix there and then.


You were advised to check with independent and job could be done just as well even possibly better.

Main dealers have huge overheads and the hourly rate is high.