Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie
Please note that it is not permitted to have referral links posted in your signature. Keep these links contained in the appropriate forum. Thank you.

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2055940817/signature-rules
Hi there,
There is an issue with role permissions that is being worked on at the moment.
If you are having trouble with access or permissions on regional forums please post here to get access: https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2058365403/you-do-not-have-permission-for-that#latest

2004 Avensis D4D intermittent power loss with black smoke

  • 03-06-2016 11:34am
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 567 ✭✭✭


    Hi all,

    I went to sell my old Avensis yesterday, but as soon as the buyer started to test drive it there was a loss of power and black smoke from the exhaust. The car still drove, but there was no power in it until the turbo kicked in at about 2k revs.

    This lasted a few minutes, then the car went back to normal for the 40 minute trip home.

    I'm going to tackle it this evening and see if I can find a fault.

    So far I was thinking:

    1. Blocked EGR
    2. Faulty MAF
    3. Injector sticking open causing reduced fuel pressure
    4. Turbo sticking
    5. Faulty fuel pressure regulation valve
    6. Fuel contamination.

    There are no EOBD fault codes being logged.

    Any ideas on where I should start?

    I have a leak off kit, but no high pressure rail pressure tester.

    Ken


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,866 ✭✭✭fancy pigeon


    Boost pressure sensor/split turbo pipe(going from airbox to turbo)/clogged EGR.

    Start with any of the above

    If it's a turbo pipe, buy new. They can be got from Toyota from €80 onwards


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 567 ✭✭✭Kencollins


    Thanks for the info!

    I checked both the air intake and outlet for the turbo, no leaks and the jubilee clips are tight and secure.

    I cleaned the MAF sensor with some (a lot) or break cleaner solvent. It didn't look dirty though.

    The EGR valve had 2 - 3 mm of build up inside both of the bores. The valve actuator was free to move though. I cleaned it out really well and refitted the lot.

    The car certainly is much better. There is no smoke at all from the exhaust then I red line at a standstill, and the usual "puff" of smoke on hard acceleration while driving is gone. The loss of power was only intermittent so i'm not sure if that is cured or not.

    Would 2 - 3 mm of crud in the EGR be enough to cause the performance issues?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,189 ✭✭✭PADRAIC.M


    It's your egr valve on this for sure, the actuator will stick intermittently, only real fix is replace it or "modify it" ( disconnect the motor part from the solenoid, leave wires connected and secured it to something with cable ties.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,859 ✭✭✭Duckjob


    No need to replace the EGR value unless it's actually faulty. Just give it a soak of carb cleaner in a tub, let it sit for a while and then clean with a soft brush and it will operate like new. I do this at least one a year and I'm always amazed at how it transforms my cars performance.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 567 ✭✭✭Kencollins


    I won't go replacing parts unless I really have to, i'm sick of throwing parts at cars!

    Hopefully the EGR clean-out that I did will be sufficient to get the car sold.

    Ken


  • Advertisement
Advertisement