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Cutting 25cm x 2cm section from steel bath

  • 29-05-2016 7:18pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 95 ✭✭


    Consider a standard 1700mm long by 700mm wide steel bath. If installed the bathroom door will just slightly hit it and so the door will not be able to go back to the wall when opened.

    All the bath would need is, from the corner, a nip out of the length of 25cm and going into the bath a distance of just 2cm.

    Has anyone had to do this, was just wondering if you had any comments.

    Thanks.


Comments

  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 1,570 ✭✭✭The Sidewards Man


    A grinder or con saw would be grand.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 95 ✭✭Possom1


    A grinder or con saw would be grand.
    Have you cut a steel bath like this before?

    [font=verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif]I realise the enamel would shatter if cut, however I've seen re-enameling products for baths, so perhaps this could be applied after it was cut?[/font]


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 1,570 ✭✭✭The Sidewards Man


    The bath would be cast iron so easily cut. I doubt very much enamel would shatter. It don't shatter when a bath gets broken up with a sledge anyway.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,838 ✭✭✭Markcheese


    Theres pressed steel and cast iron baths.. might be as well finding out which ,

    Slava ukraini 🇺🇦



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,298 ✭✭✭martinr5232


    Put masking tape on where you are cutting it will help stop the enamel chipping.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 17,190 ✭✭✭✭Sleeper12


    If you cut the edge off bath you won't be able to use classi seal, easy seal etc so the seal between the bath and tiles might not be as good


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,115 ✭✭✭wilser


    Would it not be easier to cut the wall?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 17,190 ✭✭✭✭Sleeper12


    wilser wrote:
    Would it not be easier to cut the wall?


    That's what I would do. Op you should re post or move this to plumbing section. You'll get answers from people who do this for a living.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,577 ✭✭✭Bonzo Delaney


    Sleeper12 wrote: »
    That's what I would do. Op you should re post or move this to plumbing section. You'll get answers from people who do this for a living.

    Probably get the same answers as most folk would frequent the same forums.

    Would cut the wall myself if it was possible ,at least the chase could be made big enough to accommodate the classic seal
    If not a grinder would cut it no problem once the notch doesn't hinder tap fittings or shower screen fitting. After that well sealed with tec 7 then tile over it then tec7 the joint again.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 95 ✭✭Possom1


    Markcheese wrote: »
    Theres pressed steel and cast iron baths.. might be as well finding out which ,
    The bath I would be installing would be pressed steel.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 95 ✭✭Possom1


    Do you think cutting 25cm along the length of the bath rim (2cm deep) would significantly weaken the bath structure?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,888 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    I would either work on the wall or the door/frame but would not touch the bath:
    Its not clear if this is a new build, refurb or an exam question:

    "Consider a standard 1700mm long by 700mm wide steel bath. If installed the bathroom door will just slightly hit it and so the door will not be able to go back to the wall when opened." Discuss:D

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 73,522 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    Could you hinge the door on the other side?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 95 ✭✭Possom1


    Its not clear if this is a new build, refurb or an exam question:

    "Consider a standard 1700mm long by 700mm wide steel bath. If installed the bathroom door will just slightly hit it and so the door will not be able to go back to the wall when opened." Discuss:D

    Too many exams...!

    One final alternative would be to cut a 20mm deep strip along the full length of the bath which is to go against the wall. Chipped enamel would then be hidden under tiles and sealant.

    It would mean not having to cut into the brickwork.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,565 ✭✭✭K.Flyer


    Possom1 wrote: »
    The bath I would be installing would be pressed steel.
    Possom1 wrote: »
    Do you think cutting 25cm along the length of the bath rim (2cm deep) would significantly weaken the bath structure?

    Where you Might get away with doing it on the wall side of a Cast Iron bath, Do Not attempt this on a pressed steel bath.
    If you look along and under the edge of the bath you will see that the steel is turned under. This is to give the side of the bath rigidity and to stop it from flexing. You are only asking for problems and you will have destroyed a good bath by attempting to cut it.
    Either chase into the wall (i.m.o. the better option) or figure something out with the door.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,153 ✭✭✭✭dodzy


    colm_mcm wrote: »
    Could you hinge the door on the other side?
    Easiest fix, if you have the room to accommodate the reversed door swing.


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