DIY idiot attempts first car service

PistolsAtDawn

Hi,

I have a 2005 BMW 320D (New Shape) and have decided to try my hand at servicing it on my own. Please note, I have never serviced a car before so hopefully if this turns out successful it may entice others with no experience attempt it.

From Volvoboy's sticky on here I seem to need the following:

(1) Oil
(2) Draining bucket (or cut out a side of a old oil bottle)
(3) 1/2 inch drive socket set (selection of sockets from 10mm to 21mm)
(4) Funnel (or 7up bottle)
(5) Airfilter
(6) Oilfilter
(7) Jack (in every car)
(8) Spark plugs
(9) Rags

Note: I already have (2) Draining bucket, (4) Funnel, (7) Jack, (9) Rags

Question:
If someone could explain to me what the '1/2 inch drive socket sets' means that would be helpful. Obviously I know what a socket set is, but don't understand the 1/2 inch drive business.

Step 1 (Changing oil and oil filter):
(1.1) Buying the correct oil:
By entering my car details into Halfords website I was suggested to purchase either 5L of Halfords own 5W30 Fully Synthetic oil (€50) OR 5L Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel 0W/40 (€58)

From a quick google search I have learned that the oil viscosity can be determined from the label, therefore the Mobil 1 oil has a lower cold temperature viscosity (i.e. 0 Vs 5 in winter (W)) than Halford's branded oil, and also has a higher viscosity at 100 degrees Celsius.

Which is better and does it really matter in your opinion?

SmartinMartin

Socket sets start at 1/4" for small jobs, 3/8" for everyday use, and 1/2" for more robust diy jobs. There are also 3/4" and 1", but to be honest it'll be a long time before you'll need stuff that size, if ever.
As to the oil, I'd go for the Mobil, seeing as there's only €8 in the difference.

(Make sure the oil conforms to the correct spec. For your car it should be BMW LL04 afaik)

doctorchopper

If its a 320d (diesel) you won't need spark plugs as diesels do not have them

Dr Turk Turkelton

There is a tray on the underside of your engine.Please do not use the jack supplied with your car to remove this or to open the sump plug.
By please I mean don't do it under any circumstances.
Get a trolley jack and axle stands.
A 1/2 drive socket set refers to the size of the ratchet.
I use Halfords oil in my e46 all the time but it's a petrol model and I get it in the sales at 15 euros for four litres.

SCOOP 64

Dont forget to put the sump plug back in before filling.

SmartinMartin

BTW, your required oil can be got much cheaper. For example it's €28 for 5 litres from micks garage;

http://www.micksgarage.com/search/engine%20oil/bmw/bmw%203-series/3%20series%202005%20to%202011/320d/163

beauf

I think you should do it under someone else supervision.

bliger

changing the oil so easy even for first timers- just take your time, lots of videos on youtube. its bit tricky to change air filter on bmw and stay away from unknown/chippo oil brands as bmw has a chain drive engine so oil is important.

Atlantic Dawn

If your near a BMW dealer I would go with genuine BMW parts and I'd buy a new sump plug too while your at it, probably €5 or so, you likely still have the original your car came with in use. Make sure you also get a new sump plug washer, sometimes these are included with the oil filter but sometimes they are not, most main dealers will include it with oil filter purchase, it's not a good idea to reuse the existing one. Not sure on the change interval for the fuel filter but on a diesel this needs to be changed too.

If it was me I would also fit a new pollen filter too, especially for this weather where the AC will be used.

The Backwards Man

I wouldn't be for anyone servicing a car for the first time without someone keeping an eye on them tbh. It's all fine and grand saying it's easy, everything is easy when you know what you're doing and what mistakes don't matter too much and what mistakes make for an expensive fix.

tomwaterford

If you have any reason to be using a jack....do not under any circumstances go under the car with putting an axle stand in place

Dale Parish

Have a spare sump plug. They don't like more than 25nm and will shear if you over-torque it.

Hal1

Make sure you recheck the oil level after a few miles of driving.

SCOOP 64

Fill it slowly ,give it time to drain down, when your near (not at) fill line run the engine for a couple of minutes and check again ,add more if necessary, so easy to over fill.
When your filling leave the dipstick out abit , don't push home,helps with pushing air out when filling.
put some oil in oil filter before screwing home,(mind you done spill it) that way the filter is nearly full already dosnt need to be pumped round helps when checking level and smear a little oil around the seal of the filter helps seal it well.

shietpilot

Check what kind of oil filter you need for your car. I'm pretty sure the 320D has an insert-type filter which means you need to have a socket to loosen the oil filter housing cover. I think BMWs have a small bolt holding it in place but other cars require big sockets like a 36MM to loosen the oil filter housing cover. You don't want to drain the oil and find out you don't have the right socket to take out the oil filter.

If it's a metal filter type I strongly recommend you buy yourself an oil filter wrench. I have this one:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Laser-2830-Filter-Wrench-Metal/dp/B003AMVZWC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464542436&sr=8-1&keywords=oil+filter+wrench

I've used it on many oil filters and also works good for fuel filters.

I also recommend you look into replacing the fuel filter and pollen (cabin) filter for your car, maybe do this another time since replacing the oil will be enough for one day :pac:

filbert the fox

PistolsAtDawn wrote: »

Hi,

I have a 2005 BMW 320D (New Shape) and have decided to try my hand at servicing it on my own. Please note, I have never serviced a car before so hopefully if this turns out successful it may entice others with no experience attempt it.

From Volvoboy's sticky on here I seem to need the following:

(1) Oil
(2) Draining bucket (or cut out a side of a old oil bottle)
(3) 1/2 inch drive socket set (selection of sockets from 10mm to 21mm)
(4) Funnel (or 7up bottle)
(5) Airfilter
(6) Oilfilter
(7) Jack (in every car)
(8) Spark plugs
(9) Rags

Note: I already have (2) Draining bucket, (4) Funnel, (7) Jack, (9) Rags

Question:
If someone could explain to me what the '1/2 inch drive socket sets' means that would be helpful. Obviously I know what a socket set is, but don't understand the 1/2 inch drive business.

Step 1 (Changing oil and oil filter):
(1.1) Buying the correct oil:
By entering my car details into Halfords website I was suggested to purchase either 5L of Halfords own 5W30 Fully Synthetic oil (€50) OR 5L Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel 0W/40 (€58)

From a quick google search I have learned that the oil viscosity can be determined from the label, therefore the Mobil 1 oil has a lower cold temperature viscosity (i.e. 0 Vs 5 in winter (W)) than Halford's branded oil, and also has a higher viscosity at 100 degrees Celsius.

Which is better and does it really matter in your opinion?

The title of your thread is somewhat informative. As a DIYer myself I like the idea of doing such jobs but......

The alternative is to get someone who is experienced at this to do it. There must be a garage in your area or alternatively is there a BMW offer on servicing which would give you peace of mind and an overall car check into the bargain?

biko

Where are you located OP, perhaps someone here can come over and help you out if you like?

PistolsAtDawn

Thanks for the responses. I am based in Limerick city. I'm aware of plenty of good garages in my area which I could bring the car to, but after hearing for years that the servicing of a car is not the most complex of tasks in the world I decided it was something I would like to try myself.

I ended up buying 'Castrol Edge 5W-30' Fully Synthetic engine oil.

Special Circumstances

There's 2 main types of oil filters. Spin on types where a metal unit with paper inside is replaced, or the drop in cartridge types.

You will need a pretty big spanner/socket/tool if you have the cartridge type.

oops should have caught up on new posts, shietpilot covered that better than I did.

shietpilot

PistolsAtDawn wrote: »

I ended up buying 'Castrol Edge 5W-30' Fully Synthetic engine oil.

You can't go wrong with any brand of fully synthetic oil with the right specifications. There is more to oil than the weight of it though, make sure it conforms to the BMW standards.

I think your car needs 5.5 litres or something, double check it using the Castrol Oil Selector or Mobil1 Oil Finder (Google one of those).

filbert the fox

PistolsAtDawn wrote: »

Thanks for the responses. I am based in Limerick city. I'm aware of plenty of good garages in my area which I could bring the car to, but after hearing for years that the servicing of a car is not the most complex of tasks in the world I decided it was something I would like to try myself.

I ended up buying 'Castrol Edge 5W-30' Fully Synthetic engine oil.

With respect, there are a plethora of other checks which are listed on main dealer lists carried out during servicing.

Don't forget:

coolant level

power steering fluid

brake fluid (some need replacement after 2 years)

Brakes (most important) disc wear, pad or shoe wear

handbrake,

tyre condition and legality

wear and tear on steering/suspension components

Shocks (hopefully not too many)

condition of hose pipes, oil/water/other leaks

Seat belts

glow plugs,

heating and ventilation system, a/c operation.

Uncle tomcobbley...

biko

I think an oil change is a great starter DIY.
It's not very difficult but still difficult enough that one feels like it's an achievement.

shietpilot

biko wrote: »

I think an oil change is a great starter DIY.
It's not very difficult but still difficult enough that one feels like it's an achievement.

Yep, basic starter job and you can only improve from there onwards. I remember when I did my first timing belt and the engine actually started and ran well and I had it timed right Welcome to €100~ timing belt changes from that point onwards.

Voodoomelon

8 years ago when I serviced my E38 for the first time, I snapped the sump plug head clean off when tightening it back in. I was super lucky in that I managed to unscrew it with a flat head screwdriver, otherwise it would have been a sump-off job to fix it.

Never over tighten any screw plug, all they need is pretty much finger tight and then a quick nip with a ratchet.

shietpilot

Voodoomelon wrote: »

8 years ago when I serviced my E38 for the first time, I snapped the sump plug head clean off when tightening it back in. I was super lucky in that I managed to unscrew it with a flat head screwdriver, otherwise it would have been a sump-off job to fix it.

Never over tighten any screw plug, all they need is pretty much finger tight and then a quick nip with a ratchet.

Unlucky there. I buy a new sump plug and seal and torque it by the book (36 Nm on the Focus). It feels like it will strip the threads and then the torque wrench goes tick :eek:

blackbox

All the talk of new sump plugs could make you paranoid. I know it would be a nasty thing to happen, but I've never heard of one coming out.

shietpilot

blackbox wrote: »

All the talk of new sump plugs could make you paranoid. I know it would be a nasty thing to happen, but I've never heard of one coming out.

For the price it costs, why wouldn't you though

Esel

blackbox wrote: »

All the talk of new sump plugs could make you paranoid. I know it would be a nasty thing to happen, but I've never heard of one coming out.

Or getting sheared.

Thought of getting one of those tap/valve plugs - any opinions?

Interslice

Its better to have it drip a bit from the bung or filter and just need to nip it up than to over tighten them. Leave the undertray off to check for leaks as it warms up and after a good drive. It's stripping threads or bolt heads that will turn a small job like this into a bigger one requiring more time and tools. Getting a feel for screwing things in and out without breaking anything is the key to most jobs. Some cars have a strong enough sump and bung that can take a good tightening, while on others either could be made of recycled tin foil.

Esel

Tighten the sump plug like you would a spark plug and it will be grand - as long as you use a new washer...

Remember, the longer the lever, the higher the effect. Don't be using a breaker bar...