Topping off concrete drive with decorative stone?

Betsy Og

Have gravel around the house, steep drive, water tracks, weeds and wear means it needs a revamp.

Thinking of coloured concrete (buff), wondering if anyone ever tapped decorative gravel into the concrete as it sets, I know it would be tricky in terms of timing it. Probably top off with the same loose decorative gravel.

Idea would be weed free, hard wearing gravel look. Would build in rain drains to stop channelling.

Would you bother with steel mesh in the concrete?, apart from the very occasional oil truck there would be no more weight than a car on it.

Any thoughts?, probably diy job in stages due to the dyed concrete (doubt you could get that by truck). Have electric mixer.

Betsy Og

Was thinking it should be quicker & easier to do most of it with the concrete truck, and leave the last inch??, to top off with the colour and stone? Suppose 2 to 3 inches, probably with steel mesh, and then another inch of decorative should be loads for domestic wear?

Any view on having different layers?, how thick the top layer should be etc. I also see comments/products about sealing concrete, not sure what is meant by this or why needed. Any concrete I have done in the past seemed to be fine without it (and down a good few years at this stage).

BryanF

What about a stabilising system with the loose stone infill. Think grascrete only with stone..

Betsy Og

I googled grasscrete so I know where you are going. Probably not cheap, and I think weeds would still be a concern in the longer run.

Think I might do the ground works (scrape off the lose stone, then take down the levels a bit) and then see what I think.

Safehands

Betsy Og wrote: »

Have gravel around the house, steep drive, water tracks, weeds and wear means it needs a revamp.

Thinking of coloured concrete (buff), wondering if anyone ever tapped decorative gravel into the concrete as it sets, I know it would be tricky in terms of timing it. Probably top off with the same loose decorative gravel.

Idea would be weed free, hard wearing gravel look. Would build in rain drains to stop channelling.

Would you bother with steel mesh in the concrete?, apart from the very occasional oil truck there would be no more weight than a car on it.

Any thoughts?, probably diy job in stages due to the dyed concrete (doubt you could get that by truck). Have electric mixer.

I think you are talking about "seeding" with decorative aggregate. Tricky to get right. You need to apply the extra aggregate on top of the concrete, trowel it in before it sets and then spray a retarder onto the surface. The next day wash off the retarded surface, leaving an exposed aggregate finish. Seal it when it has dried. Like I said, tricky to get right, but it can work.

Betsy Og

Thanks for that Safehands, some good tips there.

I'm thinking I should probably put the steel in, no point having a nice finish with a big crack down some corner of it. I usually put builders film (heavy gauge plastic) on the compacted hardcore before getting the concrete poured. Generally more for floors. Not sure there's much point when its just a slab exposed to the elements, but maybe it still has advantages.

Safehands

Betsy Og wrote: »

Thanks for that Safehands, some good tips there.

I'm thinking I should probably put the steel in, no point having a nice finish with a big crack down some corner of it. I usually put builders film (heavy gauge plastic) on the compacted hardcore before getting the concrete poured. Generally more for floors. Not sure there's much point when its just a slab exposed to the elements, but maybe it still has advantages.

Steel mesh, such as A142, stops cracking in the initial stages. How thick is this concrete going to be?. Where do you intend placing the mesh, near the top or in the middle? The heavy guage plastic is usually used as a DPC, which is not really that relevent on a footpath. A Geotextile may be more useful, if there is any question of subsidence, or if the ground is not too strong. Also, cutting joints can prevent cracking, but that has to happen after 24 hours for it to be effective.

Betsy Og

Maybe 3" of concrete base from the truck, mesh probably towards the top (I'm not the most exact on such matters...). Then about inch and a half on top with my own mixer and the buff colour, gravel etc.

Presume would want to rake the top of the base to leave it fairly rough to give a good tie with the top layer.

sconhome

I'd be worried about the top 1.5" cracking as the layers move in winter especially if it is a different mix to the base.

Safehands

sconhome wrote: »

I'd be worried about the top 1.5" cracking as the layers move in winter especially if it is a different mix to the base.

Yea, Really with that type of thin section topping I would be inclined to put a polymer in it. I think you need to bond it as well. That means probably leaving the sub floor to harden a bit.
I wouldn't be inclined to use a screed. It does probably mean pigmenting the whole thing, unless you were to lay it in layers, wet on wet. That is introducing a whole load of potential problems, with delamination etc.
Go for a colour in the whole mix, seed the surface with the stones and trowel them in. Then apply the retarder.
These people in the UK know about this type of thing. Look them up. www.colchem.co.uk

Betsy Og

I presume it is out of the question to get pigmentation in delivered concrete from the truck (how would he clean it properly for the next man).

Can do in smaller sections with my own mixer I suppose - a lot of labour & time but sure the right job is the right job.

5" with steel mesh be enough?

Safehands

Betsy Og wrote: »

I presume it is out of the question to get pigmentation in delivered concrete from the truck (how would he clean it properly for the next man).

Can do in smaller sections with my own mixer I suppose - a lot of labour & time but sure the right job is the right job.

5" with steel mesh be enough?

Some concrete companies do deliver coloured concrete. If you are doing it yourself, keep the water to a minimum. Excess water can ruin coloured concrete. Don't do it in the rain either, although you will be washing off the top few milimeters.