Cost of esb too run amains fencer?

Nobbies

Any one know how much it costs too run amains fencer for ayear?joule output say 6 or 7.thanks for any repleys

_Brian

No real answer to this as it really depends on the fence size and how many places it's earthed, more earths consume more power and more so on wet days.

Still, I'd guess ~€50 would run it for a year.

Maybe someone with a stand alone wan connection can say what the wan charge. But that will include a low usage fee.

patsy_mccabe

The simple answer is about €20 a year.
The problem with Fencers is they are rated in Joules, which is the measure of the charge stored in a fencer not the power. You need to find out the Wattage of the fencer. I have a M500 Gallagher, rated 5 Joules. The wattage is not rated on their site but I found this on another site.;

Lade- Energie: 5,2 Joule
Impuls-Energie: 4.0 Joule
Leistungsaufnahme: 7 Watt

http://www.weidezaun-experten.de/Gallagher_Netzgeraete/Gallagher_PowerPlus_M500/520090452.html

So 7 Watts. If a unit of electricity costs say 20cents. That's 24cents a week or €12 for the entire year. That's with the fencer on 24/7 all year around.

pms7

I was looking at this myself, as have one plugged into neighbours garage. As far as I know, same consumption earthing or not. Some units state watts, range 10 to 20 watts.
Say 20,
1000w = 1 unit at approx 20c
50 hours to use 1 unit
8760 hrs in year / 50 = 175 units @ 20c = €35 per year

TITANIUM.

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

The simple answer is about €20 a year.
The problem with Fencers is they are rated in Joules, which is the measure of the charge stored in a fencer not the power. You need to find out the Wattage of the fencer. I have a M500 Gallagher, rated 5 Joules. The wattage is not rated on their site but I found this on another site.;

Lade- Energie: 5,2 Joule
Impuls-Energie: 4.0 Joule
Leistungsaufnahme: 7 Watt

http://www.weidezaun-experten.de/Gallagher_Netzgeraete/Gallagher_PowerPlus_M500/520090452.html

So 7 Watts. If a unit of electricity costs say 20cents. That's 24cents a week or €12 for the entire year. That's with the fencer on 24/7 all year around.

Ya your not far off there. Tis very little anyway. A good while ago some fella on boards had it costed at 2 euro a month.
Ye won't be falling out over it anyway.

tractorporn

Nobbies wrote:

Any one know how much it costs too run amains fencer for ayear?joule output say 6 or 7.thanks for any repleys

AFAIK once the fence isn't earthing the fencer unit should be cycling the same pulse around the circuit each time it clicks. Now that's dependant on it being fenced in a full loop.

We have an outfarm done in this way and last year the fence only used 4 units of electricity. The vital thing is to keep it from earthing, once it starts earthing it will eat power cos every time the pulse enters the ground.

patsy_mccabe

tractorporn wrote: »

AFAIK once the fence isn't earthing the fencer unit should be cycling the same pulse around the circuit each time it clicks. Now that's dependant on it being fenced in a full loop.

We have an outfarm done in this way and last year the fence only used 4 units of electricity. The vital thing is to keep it from earthing, once it starts earthing it will eat power cos every time the pulse enters the ground.

If your fence is earthing through vegetation etc, it will reduce the effectiveness of the fence, but I can't see how it would cause it to use more power. After all doesn't the high voltage of the fence go to ground anyway as part of the normal cycle.

_Brian

tractorporn wrote: »

AFAIK once the fence isn't earthing the fencer unit should be cycling the same pulse around the circuit each time it clicks. Now that's dependant on it being fenced in a full loop.

We have an outfarm done in this way and last year the fence only used 4 units of electricity. The vital thing is to keep it from earthing, once it starts earthing it will eat power cos every time the pulse enters the ground.

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

If your fence is earthing through vegetation etc, it will reduce the effectiveness of the fence, but I can't see how it would cause it to use more power. After all doesn't the high voltage of the fence go to ground anyway as part of the normal cycle.

Guys, there is no pulse circulating and if well maintained a straight run of appropriate wire is as good as a loop. Now, there is a benefit of creating a loop similar to the ring main created by electricians on sockets in your house, it allows more paths for power to travel along the ring essentially traveling in both directions to any point. In theory you could use smaller gauge wire if running a loop than a single straight run and if one path breaks down the other will keep bringing power.

What a fencer does is generate a huge potential to deliver a short burst high voltage low current between the positive and ground, known as potential difference, measured in volts, typically a good mains fence might have a potential of 30,000volts, a battery fence about 7,000volts. If these are not connected together the potential to deliver this switches off and then back on with each cycle of the fencer but the potential is never delivered and so no power consumed..
Shorts, be they vegetation or an animal (or you) provide a path and the high voltage low current energy passes from the positive to ground via the short, each time the fence is shorted a very small amount of energy is used.
So a fence with zero shorts only uses the energy required to drive the internal circuitry which is very little. But the more shorts a fence has then the greater the load and so more and more energy is consumed with each cycle.

The other problems with shorts is that more and more paths for power to flow between the positive and ground stop the fence building up the huge potential difference between positive and ground and so the fence delivered less and less shock as more shorts are on the line.

Understanding this is very important for battery fencers, the battery will last way, way longer if the fence isnt delivering energy through loads of shorts, they will just eat up the battery.

I could never get any good answer why fencers use the "joule" measurement rather than "watts" which most people are used to seeing. A joule is essentially a measurement of work where a watt is an actual measurement of energy. A joule is basically watts per second, the amount of work done by an amount of watts per second.

And so ends useless information bulletin 164.

patsy_mccabe

You could be right about power lost through vegetation Brian, I don't know. I always thought it was just a capacitor discharging.
So what happens the 5000v between shocks ( or cycles). Where does that go? It can only go down the earth bar of the fencer.

_Brian

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

You could be right about power lost through vegetation Brian, I don't know. I always thought it was just a capacitor discharging.
So what happens the 5000v between shocks ( or cycles). Where does that go? It can only go down the earth bar of the fencer.

I'm not sure best description.
Think of power at end of extension lead with nothing plugged into it potential there but not being used. If you plug out the other end, the potential difference between positive/negative is just lost rather than being discharged anywhere.

Same in the fencer if no shorts exists, the circuitry just cuts off the potential and back on again each cycle.

patsy_mccabe

Ya understand what you're saying. I googled all this before but couldn't find it anywhere.

_Brian

Here's a tip for checking the earth bar.

Use your fence tester. Between the top of the earth bar to the ground it shouldn't show any lights/power. If it does then the earth bar isn't earthing properly and so will be affecting the power delivered by the fence.

You should be able to put your hand on the earth bar and feel nothing. But often it's a problem area.

Nobbies

Thanks for all that lads and lassies.i ask as i hope to ask aneighbour can i plug one in to his garage on a outfarm.

pms7

_Brian wrote: »

Guys, there is no pulse circulating and if well maintained a straight run of appropriate wire is as good as a loop. Now, there is a benefit of creating a loop similar to the ring main created by electricians on sockets in your house, it allows more paths for power to travel along the ring essentially traveling in both directions to any point. In theory you could use smaller gauge wire if running a loop than a single straight run and if one path breaks down the other will keep bringing power.

I remember someone telling me years ago that a loop was a bad idea for fencing. Not sure of the technical reason why... but over the years I did away with all loops here. The big benefit is when it comes to tracking down a bad short, you can disconnect different sections easily. Or if you know a section has a lot of overgrowth, and no cattle there for a while, I just disconnect it.