1" copper/brass/stainless T piece?

water-man

Hi,

Hope someone can help me out. In the attached pics is a 1" iron t piece. I believe this is causing my hot water to be "yellow". cold water is fine. It is taps after this point that water is "yellow".

Does anyone know where I could get an equivalent copper/brass/stainless T piece? Tried my 2 local plumbing shops and they didn't have any.

Space is a bit tight where this is but I open to modifying it if I can't get a straight out swap.

Thanks,

WM

corkgsxr

Going by the second picture with the auto air vents there on the heating side so won't be the issue.

Any picture further out

water-man

Hi,

Attached are 2 more pics:

Pic 1 is of the top of the Hot Water Tank.
Left most pipe is mains cold water in, then heated hot water out (goes through a heat exchanger inside tank), Heat pump return, HP hot water.

Pic 2 is of pipe work before the hot water tank.
Right most pipe is mains cold water. next pipe is Hot water, then grey water for toilets (comes from a tank in attic), Grey water up to tank in attic.

On pic 2, the mains cold water (right most pipe) has 2 pipes which T off and go into the attic. These are both closed and not connected to anything in attic.

Also note in pic 2 that the cold water has other T's which go to the cold water taps around the house. All these taps the water is nice and clear.

It is only the hot water which is yellow in colour.

To me it must be the iron t pieces in pic one. It is fresh (soft) water that is going through the t pieces.

WM

corkgsxr

I still think there heating pipes going into the cylinder. Why have auto air vents on them otherwise.

Turn on your hot water heating and see if they heat up.

water-man

Hi Corkgsxr,

Not sure what you mean by "heating pipes going into the cylinder"?

The HW tank is heated by my Heat Pump (one company did HP & UFH installation) and there is also an electric element which I never use. There is no solar, oil, back boiler or anything else.

I did the domestic (taps etc) plumbing work my self, although I'm not a plumber. The bleeders or air vents I installed as this is the highest point in the system and I thought they would be a good idea to prevent air locks, maybe they weren't needed.

Any other possibilities on what would be causing only the HW to be yellow? What happens is - say first thing in the morning I turn on a HW tap, cold water comes first (clear in colour), then as soon as the HW comes it is a yellow color, once taps run for a few seconds the water turns clear again.

I'd like to replace the iron t pieces to rule this out. But I can't find any stainless/brass/copper t pieces in 1".

Thanks,

WM

roy rodgers

water-man wrote: »

Hi Corkgsxr,

Not sure what you mean by "heating pipes going into the cylinder"?

The HW tank is heated by my Heat Pump (one company did HP & UFH installation) and there is also an electric element which I never use. There is no solar, oil, back boiler or anything else.

I did the domestic (taps etc) plumbing work my self, although I'm not a plumber. The bleeders or air vents I installed as this is the highest point in the system and I thought they would be a good idea to prevent air locks, maybe they weren't needed.

Any other possibilities on what would be causing only the HW to be yellow? What happens is - say first thing in the morning I turn on a HW tap, cold water comes first (clear in colour), then as soon as the HW comes it is a yellow color, once taps run for a few seconds the water turns clear again.

I'd like to replace the iron t pieces to rule this out. But I can't find any stainless/brass/copper t pieces in 1".

Thanks,

WM

Whats the cylinder made off. The anode might need replacing

Alucan

You can get that exact fitting in galvanised form. Any plumbing supplies place should have them

PK27

Not sure what's going on there, but I can safely say that any particular brass joint is not causing your hot water to turn yellow.

roy rodgers

Can you put a picture of the cylinder up.

I'm still thinking the anode will need to be replaced

water-man

PK27 wrote: »

Not sure what's going on there, but I can safely say that any particular brass joint is not causing your hot water to turn yellow.

Hi,

I think the iron T piece is the problem not brass fittings.

WM

water-man

roy rodgers wrote: »

Can you put a picture of the cylinder up.

I'm still thinking the anode will need to be replaced

Hi,

In my system the cold water goes through a coil and then comes out hot. This hot water never touches the water in the tank.

Will post a pic later.

WM.

nmacc

The plumbing is impressive, but black iron is not suitable for potable water and your need to change those tees.

I'm pretty sure they are available in brass, as I have several of them in 3/4" brass rattling around, but I haven't encountered them in 1", so I'm afraid I can't recommend a source.

If they are pressurised water flow and return then you don't need the auto vents. Therefore you don't need tees. I would suggest ditching the vents and replacing the tees with 317s, giving you a 1" FI thread pointing down and a compression fitting pointing backwards, per the first two photos. Obviously you'll have to redo some of the horizontal pipe lengths, as the overall length of the fittings will have changed.

I'm guessing all that pipework is metric?

Dtp1979

nmacc wrote: »

The plumbing is impressive, but black iron is not suitable for potable water and your need to change those tees.

I'm pretty sure they are available in brass, as I have several of them in 3/4" brass rattling around, but I haven't encountered them in 1", so I'm afraid I can't recommend a source.

If they are pressurised water flow and return then you don't need the auto vents. Therefore you don't need tees. I would suggest ditching the vents and replacing the tees with 317s, giving you a 1" FI thread pointing down and a compression fitting pointing backwards, per the first two photos. Obviously you'll have to redo some of the horizontal pipe lengths, as the overall length of the fittings will have changed.

I'm guessing all that pipework is metric?

He coujd use galvanised gb if that's the case but I think it's the heating pipes.
Op does the pressure drop on the heating side of things? I'm thinking leaking coil, central heatin water mixing with hot water.

water-man

Dtp1979 wrote: »

Op does the pressure drop on the heating side of things? I'm thinking leaking coil, central heatin water mixing with hot water.

Cold water pressure and hot pressure are equal, as far as can tell without putting a gauge on it.

I doubt a leaking coil pipe inside tank as the hot water tank is not "sealed" at the top so if my coil was leaking I'd expect this to over flow. The tank lid just sits on top of the tank.

WM

Dtp1979

water-man wrote: »

Cold water pressure and hot pressure are equal, as far as can tell without putting a gauge on it.

I doubt a leaking coil pipe inside tank as the hot water tank is not "sealed" at the top so if my coil was leaking I'd expect this to over flow. The tank lid just sits on top of the tank.

WM

Have you pressurised water in your bathrooms?