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Fix Brakes on Crystal or buy a new tractor

  • 13-04-2016 11:06pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,372 ✭✭✭


    I have an Ursus / Crystal.

    I,m not a heavy tractor user, spread fert, bring in round bales etc

    Brakes are poor and hand brake is not working.

    Tractor going ok but a bit rough

    Son who is 12 now likes driving the tractor in field etc

    I know the dangers involved and want him to be safe when driving.

    Am I better off getting brakes fixed or buying a new tractor. A 2 wheel drive would do me, I would be prepared to spend 8k


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,707 ✭✭✭20silkcut


    Tomjim wrote: »
    I have an Ursus / Crystal.

    I,m not a heavy tractor user, spread fert, bring in round bales etc

    Brakes are poor and hand brake is not working.

    Tractor going ok but a bit rough

    Son who is 12 now likes driving the tractor in field etc

    I know the dangers involved and want him to be safe when driving.

    Am I better off getting brakes fixed or buying a new tractor. A 2 wheel drive would do me, I would be prepared to spend 8k


    I drive a crystal as well. In reality 95% of stock farmers don't need anything more than a zetor crystal even today. But then a good Nissan Sentra from c1988 would do most families in Ireland today as well. Millions are spent on marketing making sure we ignore these realities.
    If you were a real cute hoor you would spend 2-300 of that 8K do a right good job on the brakes(handbrake a waste of time) and spend the balance on a few calves or some other stock which may actually bring in a few pound or take a holiday or something.
    But then again having a good comfortable tractor under your arse is a powerful attraction too which overcomes much financial pragmatism and cuteness.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 18,831 ✭✭✭✭_Brian


    20silkcut wrote: »
    I drive a crystal as well. In reality 95% of stock farmers don't need anything more than a zetor crystal even today. But then a good Nissan Sentra from c1988 would do most families in Ireland today as well. Millions are spent on marketing making sure we ignore these realities.
    If you were a real cute hoor you would spend 2-300 of that 8K do a right good job on the brakes(handbrake a waste of time) and spend the balance on a few calves or some other stock which may actually bring in a few pound or take a holiday or something.
    But then again having a good comfortable tractor under your arse is a powerful attraction too which overcomes much financial pragmatism and cuteness.

    How can a handbrake be a waste of time, awful handy to have a handbrake when pulling in to change an implement or something or jump down to open a gate. I Agree though. Spend few quid on the brakes and then maybe spend some Money tidying up other stuff and lastly a lick of paint.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 285 ✭✭raypallas


    Is it was good to start and lights were working in it i would chance it. As it sits its probably worth between 2000-4000 depending on condition with brakes closer to the top end. Have you priced it up? It may not be too bad. As you said he will only be learning so atleadt he would have a good lump of a tractor under him.
    Have one ourselves and its used for wrapping, drawing dung and a small bit of slurry lately. Couldn't see us changing it because its too handy until something serious goes in it and they are fairly bomb proof other that the brakes.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 492 ✭✭The Cuban


    Could you not buy the 8k tractor but use a loan and spread the payments over 5 years. Then depreciate the tractor over the 5 years and write the money off against Tax, and use the interest on the loan against Tax also.
    So you get to have a good tractor, reduce your Tax bill and keep your son interested in the farm!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,707 ✭✭✭20silkcut


    _Brian wrote: »
    How can a handbrake be a waste of time, awful handy to have a handbrake when pulling in to change an implement or something or jump down to open a gate. I Agree though. Spend few quid on the brakes and then maybe spend some Money tidying up other stuff and lastly a lick of paint.

    I spent 900 euro getting a service done on the crystal which included 9 and a half hours fixing the handbrake, back wheel had to come off, the handbrake lasted about a month after.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,416 ✭✭✭emaherx


    20silkcut wrote: »
    I spent 900 euro getting a service done on the crystal which included 9 and a half hours fixing the handbrake, back wheel had to come off, the handbrake lasted about a month after.

    Sounds like you need a better mechanic!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,416 ✭✭✭emaherx


    Tomjim wrote: »
    I have an Ursus / Crystal.

    I,m not a heavy tractor user, spread fert, bring in round bales etc

    Brakes are poor and hand brake is not working.

    Tractor going ok but a bit rough

    Son who is 12 now likes driving the tractor in field etc

    I know the dangers involved and want him to be safe when driving.

    Am I better off getting brakes fixed or buying a new tractor. A 2 wheel drive would do me, I would be prepared to spend 8k

    Like mentioned above, if the tractor you have could be put right for less than half that money I'd consider it. You could spend 8k on a tidy looking tractor only to find out it needs breaks or other work done a few months down the line.

    Personally I think hand break is a most especially with a young person at the wheel. What if tractor rolls over him as he is getting down. Also 12 is still quite young to be let loose with a tractor in any condition.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,271 ✭✭✭✭patsy_mccabe


    The Cuban wrote: »
    Could you not buy the 8k tractor but use a loan and spread the payments over 5 years. Then depreciate the tractor over the 5 years and write the money off against Tax, and use the interest on the loan against Tax also.
    So you get to have a good tractor, reduce your Tax bill and keep your son interested in the farm!

    Is it not 8 years to write off against tax?


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 875 ✭✭✭f140


    Tomjim wrote: »
    I have an Ursus / Crystal.

    I,m not a heavy tractor user, spread fert, bring in round bales etc

    Brakes are poor and hand brake is not working.

    Tractor going ok but a bit rough

    Son who is 12 now likes driving the tractor in field etc

    I know the dangers involved and want him to be safe when driving.

    Am I better off getting brakes fixed or buying a new tractor. A 2 wheel drive would do me, I would be prepared to spend 8k



    fix the breaks and the handbreak. Its better the devil you know. €8k might end up buying you a bigger crock. Id be inclined to keep the 8k for now and as the lad gets older maybe buy something better then to keep him interested in farming.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,559 ✭✭✭pedigree 6


    I'd say the op knows this already and he knows what condition the tractor is in except the brakes. But whatever you do always have a good handbrake.

    There's many a farmer been killed or injured for the sake of a handbrake including someone about 15 miles from here and he leaves behind a wife and young son. I don't care what it cost have a good handbrake.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,271 ✭✭✭✭patsy_mccabe


    I never trust my handbrake. I serviced it myself so know how it works. All it is, is a small wedge of metal sliding along a ratchet. Very easy for it to slip.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,416 ✭✭✭emaherx


    I never trust my handbrake. I serviced it myself so know how it works. All it is, is a small wedge of metal sliding along a ratchet. Very easy for it to slip.

    Em... pretty much the design in nearly every machine, personally I'd rather have one than not. Too many lads killed feedind silage for want of a hand break. If it slips very easily or looks like it might then you need a new hand break lever or at least the ratchet parts. But if you want to use the hand break, stop the engine and leave the tractor in gear with all attachments lowered and chock the wheels every time you dismount that should be safe enough. :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,372 ✭✭✭Tomjim


    If I get the brakes fixed, how long would they last ie work safely


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,416 ✭✭✭emaherx


    Tomjim wrote: »
    If I get the brakes fixed, how long would they last ie work safely

    They should last year's but you may need to learn how to set the correct adjustment on them from time to time.

    I have come across a few tractors where I have been told the breaks haven't worked in years or only worked for a short while since they were replaced only to find they only need adjusting.
    Adjustment normally requires a turn of a spanner.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,865 ✭✭✭9935452


    Tomjim wrote: »
    I have an Ursus / Crystal.

    I,m not a heavy tractor user, spread fert, bring in round bales etc

    Brakes are poor and hand brake is not working.

    Tractor going ok but a bit rough

    Son who is 12 now likes driving the tractor in field etc

    I know the dangers involved and want him to be safe when driving.

    Am I better off getting brakes fixed or buying a new tractor. A 2 wheel drive would do me, I would be prepared to spend 8k

    id say eithre way if you are changing the tractor or keeping it i would get the brakes done.
    If you are trading it or selling privately you will be knocked on the fact that it hasnt brakes. Sell it with brakes just done is a positive selling point


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,372 ✭✭✭Tomjim


    I haven't sold yet still exploring .....

    Know very little bout tractors, brakes is the biggest problem with this tractor.

    Was talking to a guy lately who had a crystal years ago and had problem with the brakes as well

    He told me that a guy reconfigured the brakes by putting in some kind of a iron bar to replace the brake system.

    Anyone know anything bout this does it work etc


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 6,497 ✭✭✭rangler1


    Tomjim wrote: »
    I haven't sold yet still exploring .....

    Know very little bout tractors, brakes is the biggest problem with this tractor.

    Was talking to a guy lately who had a crystal years ago and had problem with the brakes as well

    He told me that a guy reconfigured the brakes by putting in some kind of a iron bar to replace the brake system.

    Anyone know anything bout this does it work etc


    i find this hard to understand, have had three Crystals and apart from a few seals the brakes never gave trouble, all went outa here with more than 6k hrs and one a good bit more....Is it your mechanic thats the problem


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,416 ✭✭✭emaherx


    Tomjim wrote: »
    I haven't sold yet still exploring .....

    Know very little bout tractors, brakes is the biggest problem with this tractor.

    Was talking to a guy lately who had a crystal years ago and had problem with the brakes as well

    He told me that a guy reconfigured the brakes by putting in some kind of a iron bar to replace the brake system.

    Anyone know anything bout this does it work etc

    Think you may be missing a fair bit of information on what was done. All brakess on tractors or almost any vehicle rely on friction pads rubbing on either disks or drums.

    Not sure what type of brakes your tractor has, are they disk or drum brakes? Are they connected to the pedals by rods or hydraulic brakes like a car? If your breaks are not hydraulic then they will need to be adjusted manually fairly often with a spanner or screwdriver as the brakes wear. I have found many people with rod brakess complaining about poor performance for the want of 2 turns of a nut.

    The easiest upgrade will most likely be better quality pads. But in fairness if you had the pads replaced in the past and they were still bad, then your issue is most likely with the actuation of the brakes, a couple of worn bushings or just poorly adjusted breaks may well be all that is wrong.

    I have an MF 135 which we have had here since I was a kid. Several people replaced the brake pads and everyone said those yolks are notorious for bad brakes. I took on to fully restore it myself a few years ago and when I got to the brakes I found only the top pad on each side was worn. The reason was the bar for actuating the brakes which passes through the back of the drum had worn the holes oval, so when you put your foot on the break only half the brake moved. I welded in 2 new bushings and when you press the brakes now it will stick to the road.

    Don't underestimate the brakes on your tractor, they were designed to stop the tractor with a loaded trailer, so if they can't stop the tractor now without any load then they are obviously faulty. Just make sure the person who repairs them understands to whole system and doesn't just replace the pads. Also get them to show you how to adjust them if they are the type which requires regular adjustment.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 285 ✭✭raypallas


    Tomjim wrote:
    Anyone know anything bout this does it work etc


    Ours has hydraulic brakes as in brake fluid with master and slave cylinders. But i do think that some lads replaced with a rod/linkage system over the years not 100%. Its probably poor pads and or maybe a weak cylinder.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,865 ✭✭✭9935452


    Tomjim wrote: »
    I haven't sold yet still exploring .....

    Know very little bout tractors, brakes is the biggest problem with this tractor.

    Was talking to a guy lately who had a crystal years ago and had problem with the brakes as well

    He told me that a guy reconfigured the brakes by putting in some kind of a iron bar to replace the brake system.

    Anyone know anything bout this does it work etc

    That lad converted the brakes by taking out the master cylinder and slaves cylinders and replacing them with a rod going from the pedals to the brake actuator.
    The length /geometry of the rod has to be right or it can cause problems too or so im told.

    I think half the problem is when lads are doing the brakes they only half do them, ie change the discs only. We always change the springs too and the shaft seal. If the brakes are binding they will overheat and will destroy the seal. Overtime the seal leaks oil on the discs resulting in no brakes.
    I recently did the brakes on a 912 ursus.
    The right brake was binding and the left brake was non existant.
    It turned out the slave cylinder was seized on the right brake and on the left brake there was a few litres of water lubricating the discs.
    New discs springs, seals and new slave cylinders .
    Bleeding the brakes , the master cylinder gave up too.
    New master cylinders and the pipe going from the brake resevoir to the master cylinder gave up.
    250 euro in parts plus my labour


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,726 ✭✭✭maidhc


    Personally I'd let the Crystal go if it is rough. 8k will buy a tidy enough 2wd these days. Maybe something like a late 7610 with a 40 series engine or the likes.

    I wouldn't think replacing the original braking system with a diy system wise. Certainly not if the tractor is going to be used on the road or by an employee.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,928 ✭✭✭✭Bass Reeves


    I agree with madhic to let the Crystal go. For export it might be worth 3-4K. If you can put 10-12K withit you will get a flaking 2WD tractor with a shuttle. Something like this might scrape into trhat type of budget

    https://www.donedeal.ie/tractors-for-sale/tractor/13127511

    Know little about them whether they are a good or bad tractor also this fiat should be in the 10K bracket
    https://www.donedeal.ie/tractors-for-sale/fiat-70-90/12782419

    Slava Ukrainii



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,823 ✭✭✭White Clover


    maidhc wrote: »
    Personally I'd let the Crystal go if it is rough. 8k will buy a tidy enough 2wd these days. Maybe something like a late 7610 with a 40 series engine or the likes.

    I wouldn't think replacing the original braking system with a diy system wise. Certainly not if the tractor is going to be used on the road or by an employee.

    That would be a good tractor but as rare as hens teeth. I don't think I ever saw one for sale.


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