Stanley Erin store , wood burning problems

BoatMad

Hi I searched this forum , but didnt see a problem like mine

Ive just had a Erin stove installed ( we moved house) into an existing fireplace by a good competent installer ( as far as I can see), fully certified etc.

We are finding it difficult to get complete burn on wood. we are burning dry hardwoods, like sycamore etc ( local supplier)

what we are finding is that we have to generate big drafts ( leaving the ash door open etc) to get good combustion , yet even then the logs burn fiercely initially and then char and die leaving partially burnt logs in the grate.

if we close the ash door and just use the front vent , we get good initial burn but then again the flame dies back as the wood chars and goes out again leaving a blackened stump of wood, adding wood causes some additional burn, but agin die back and charred but not burnt timber

I dont think its draft per se, with the ash door open , theres so much draft that the ashes are actually being blown from the pan up into the grate ( not much but some )

Im perplexed at the issue , The wood looks fine , in pieces about 8 inches long and 4-6 inches thick

help ??

wayoutwest

Sounds like the wood that you are burning may not be fully seasoned.A €20 moisture meter is a good investment if you are going to be burning air-dried timber-then you can test your logs to make sure that the moisture content is 18% or less.You could try burning a small bag of expensive kiln-dried hardwood (that should be well below 18% M.C.) , and see if the same thing happens.
Burning timber only is a lot different to burning the odd log on top of a bed of coal. I find that there is a big difference between using 18%M.C and 23% M.C logs.

BoatMad

wayoutwest wrote: »

Sounds like the wood that you are burning may not be fully seasoned.A €20 moisture meter is a good investment if you are going to be burning air-dried timber-then you can test your logs to make sure that the moisture content is 18% or less.You could try burning a small bag of expensive kiln-dried hardwood (that should be well below 18% M.C.) , and see if the same thing happens.
Burning timber only is a lot different to burning the odd log on top of a bed of coal. I find that there is a big difference between using 18%M.C and 23% M.C logs.

Thanks , I'll do that and get a moisture meter.

I have found that I was setting too small a fire , I now find if I use a fair bit of kindling and get a good hot fire going and feed it well initially , the new timber now ignites quickly and then I can cut back the air supply and the fire burns well and the stove gets really hot.

wayoutwest

Thats the trick with 'wood only' fires - plenty of kindling and then smaller logs followed by larger logs.You need to quickly establish a heat core by using lots of small stuff -that will create a bed of charcoal that will help ignite the big logs rather than just singeing them.Glad you sussed it out

BoatMad

wayoutwest wrote: »

Thats the trick with 'wood only' fires - plenty of kindling and then smaller logs followed by larger logs.You need to quickly establish a heat core by using lots of small stuff -that will create a bed of charcoal that will help ignite the big logs rather than just singeing them.Glad you sussed it out

yes thanks , I was perplexed for a few days until I experimented , now Im hoary to say everything burns to ashes and the stove is piping hot