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Replacing Dry-Lining?

  • 16-03-2016 2:46pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 362 ✭✭


    We are taking the opportunity during house remedial works (pyrite issue) to remove the dry-lining on the inside of the external walls, both upstairs & downstairs.

    Complimentary to this will be to insulate the attic to at least SEAI standards and change the windows & doors to be A rated.

    We’ve spoken to a few contractors regarding the insulation work and 2 main options have surfaced:

    1. Strip back to the block-work (including removing battens) and mushroom fix on 100mm insulation board
    2. Strip back to the block-work (but don’t remove battens), spray foam in-between the 50mm battens and finish with 50mm insulation board.

    Our understanding is that option 2 should give a better “seal” all around, and be more thermally efficient.

    Our concern is that option 2 might cause a seal such as to cause damp or mould in the future, if there is not a flow/exchange of stale air to fresh air.
    We don’t wish to install any fans in the attic that are blowing air down into the house.

    Stats on the house:

    4 bedroom detached house, 1720 sq feet.
    Built in 1998.
    From outside in:
    • Pebble dash render and finish
    • 9-inch cavity block
    • 50 mm battens
    • Plaster boards.

    We’ve never had any damp or mould problems, as the house stands.

    Besides the cost element, how might we make a decision on option 1 versus 2?

    Thanks!


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,880 ✭✭✭MicktheMan


    Both options are poor, imo.

    Option 3:
    remove drylining, battens. Render the walls with airtight plaster (scratch + sand/cement render). Move windows out flush with external wall surface and external insulate, wrapping the frames of the new windows in the insulation. Airtighten the window frames to internal blockwork reveals and render over.
    And ventilate.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,216 ✭✭✭Paul Kiernan


    MicktheMan wrote: »
    Both options are poor, imo.

    Option 3:
    remove drylining, battens. Render the walls with airtight plaster (scratch + sand/cement render). Move windows out flush with external wall surface and external insulate, wrapping the frames of the new windows in the insulation. Airtighten the window frames to internal blockwork reveals and render over.
    And ventilate.

    +1 on this. To see the hazards of 1 and 2, look at "Room to Improve" from a few weeks back, about the house in Maynooth!

    Did 1998 Building Regs allow building external walls in cavity block?


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