New Shoes: New cleats

irishrover99

I just bought myself a pair of MTB shoes from Lidl. Before now i've only had 2 pairs of MTB shoes, both were the same Mavic shoe and both had the cleats put on by the shop. So now i've put the cleats on the Lidl shoes myself and done about 35 Km today in them over 2 rides. I've been a bit worried about this for a while as i don't want to end up injuring myself with the cleats positioned wrongly but i'm feeling a bit tender around my right heel/ankle area.

Not sure if this is all in my head but would that be too soon to feel pain?. Anyway looking for suggestions on how you's fit new cleats when changing shoe brand.

Cee-Jay-Cee

If they're completely different shoes then it's trial and error.

I changed from Shimano to Diadora shoes. I fitted the cleats roughly in the same position as they were on the old shoes and went for a cycle with an Allen key in my pocket and stopped every so often to adjust the position of the cleat (concentrating on one foot at a time) It took me roughly 18km to get them in a position that felt right. That was March 2014 and I haven't had to adjust them since.

On a side note, once I have the cleats in the desired position, I mark the outline of the cleat with a sharp pointed tool (awl) as I'm very sore on cleats and go through up to 3 sets a year. It makes fitting the next set a 2 minute job.

irishrover99

Cee-Jay-Cee wrote: »

If they're completely different shoes then it's trial and error.

I changed from Shimano to Diadora shoes. I fitted the cleats roughly in the same position as they were on the old shoes and went for a cycle with an Allen key in my pocket and stopped every so often to adjust the position of the cleat (concentrating on one foot at a time) It took me roughly 18km to get them in a position that felt right. That was March 2014 and I haven't had to adjust them since.

On a side note, once I have the cleats in the desired position, I mark the outline of the cleat with a sharp pointed tool (awl) as I'm very sore on cleats and go through up to 3 sets a year. It makes fitting the next set a 2 minute job.

When i got home yesterday i was sore in both feet around the ankle area. I've brought both cleats back a bit to be more under the ball of my foot. Ill try again on my lunch spin and will be allen key with me.

G1032

This might help https://www.stevehoggbikefitting.com/bikefit/2011/04/power-to-the-pedal-cleat-position/

retul

Firstly , I'm a professional bike fitter.

Your foot acts as a lever so I would suggest moving your cleats back so that the spindle is close to your fifth metatarsal head. This is BEHIND the ball of your foot.

This will stabilise your foot and also enable you to use your bigger hip driving muscles more.


Obviously seat height is crucial to avoid incorrect ankling

Wishbone Ash

Cee-Jay-Cee wrote: »

....On a side note, once I have the cleats in the desired position, I mark the outline of the cleat with a sharp pointed tool (awl) as I'm very sore on cleats and go through up to 3 sets a year. It makes fitting the next set a 2 minute job.

I just change the cleats before cleaning the shoes. The outline of the removed cleat will clearly be visible.

irishrover99

Wishbone Ash wrote: »

I just change the cleats before cleaning the shoes. The outline of the removed cleat will clearly be visible.

How many pairs of cycling shoes would you use. Should i stick to my older ones until they are finished. I was planning on using the Lidl ones for commuting.

Wishbone Ash

irishrover99 wrote: »

How many pairs of cycling shoes would you use. Should i stick to my older ones until they are finished. I was planning on using the Lidl ones for commuting.

I have 5 pairs which I rotate according to weather, cleat/pedal type, matching gear etc.

It's always useful to have a second pair in case the first get very wet and are not dry enough for the next ride.