Mont-Blanc - 6 Day Climb

blacklilly

Hi all,

Has anyone here ever climbed Mont-Blanc?

We are considering doing it but I'm very apprehensive about it as I think some people in our group are being a little naive on how challenging it will be.

We are in no way experienced climbers (we have done a bit but I don't believe enough for this climb) and our level of fitness ranges from average to very fit.

Would be interested to hear peoples experiences of this climb and your level of experience/fitness etc.

Many thanks

unkel

Haven't done it myself but I looked into it a bit. I presume you are doing it with dedicated guide(s)? From what I found it's not so much of a physical / technical challenge (although you would want to be reasonably fit), but far more dangerous than people realise. About 100 people die on it every year (many times more than die climbing Everest)

blacklilly

Yes, we would be going with a guided tour.

I didn't realise there was that rate of fatality there, definitely a consideration to take.

My main worry was going and not being able to complete it due to inexperience or lack of fitness within the group.

sparrowcar

Got very close a few years back to climbing it. Had trained for a few years, did a winter mountaineering course in Scotland and have been climbing/hiking for years so was well prepared but we didn't have a good weather window and had also pretty much run out of money when we got to Chamonix and were also pretty shattered having spent 2 weeks in Switzerland hiking beforehand. It was going to be a surprise to family and friends if we did it but it just never happened.

A few things to remember.

It's not easy, it's 3 long days including a very early start on the summit day as generally you get up and down the dangerous parts during the late night/early morning when they are still frozen (avoiding rock fall)

The mountain huts are always busy in the summer and I would pretty much forget about getting a good nights sleep in them (fatigue will set in)

High mountain climbing requires a certain mental attitude that comes with experience. Being fit isn't the only consideration.

Some people can't deal with the reduced oxygen and suffer terribly from it.

It's your and your groups decision at the end of the day. Only you know if it's possible after taking the above into consideration.

If you do go for it all the best.

Alun

sparrowcar wrote: »

Some people can't deal with the reduced oxygen and suffer terribly from it.

It's worth noting also that physical fitness is no indicator as to how well you'll cope with altitude.

Carawaystick

It's a fairly easy 2-day climb going up the Gouter route, staying overnight at the Aiguille du Gouter Refuge.

There's one section of objective danger, crossing the Grand Couloir on the ascent of the Aiguille du Gouter.
There's a risk of rockfall, and I've heard it's a bit more in the 15 years since I was up there.


If you're going to Chamonix for 6 days, you should have time to test gear(crampons/axe/rope) on the Vallee Blanche and then climb in a good weather window.

Robbie Fenlon is a Dub who's a Chamonix guide

sparrowcar

Carawaystick wrote: »

It's a fairly easy 2-day climb going up the Gouter route, staying overnight at the Aiguille du Gouter Refuge

Bravado comments like this are what get inexperienced people in trouble.

It might be a "fairly easy 2-day climb" to some but to others it could be an excruciating climb and then turning back because they under estimated the mountain.

The fastest accent of Mont Blanc is just under 5 hours but that doesn't mean sh!t to any of us or people asking questions on here.

Neady83

My friends and I have been to Chamonix twice in the hope of climbing Mont Blanc but we didn't get a weather window on either occasion but luckily we got good advice before going which meant that our trip wasn't a waste of time.

The first time we went there (similar to your group, a mixed bunch of good hikers but with no experiences on the snow and ice) we got a guide to do the Haute Route with us, the higher glacier trek, from Chamonix to Zermatte. This was a six day learning curve hiking from hut to hut. It wasn't easy and some days were much tougher than others but it meant that we were well acclimatized and equipped with the necessary skills to climb Mont Blanc by the time we were done. When we got back to Chamonix, our guide deemed four (out of 6) of us eligible/skilled enough to do the Mont Blanc climb but unfortunately the weather wasn't on our side so instead our guide arranged for us to Italy to do Island Peak. I would highly recommend the Haute Route (usually done on a ratio of 6 people to 1 guide) - it had some great hiking, we did two 4,000+ meter peaks and the views were amazing. It also afforded our guide the opportunity to assess us and give his honest opinion as to who would and wouldn't be able for the big climb.

On our second outing, after doing a Winter skills course in Scotland, we went to Chamonix with a plan to climb Mont Blanc, weather permitting, after taking on some 4,000+ meter peaks. We did 5 days of the spaghetti tour (Monte Rosa traverse) and added on an extra day when we found out the weather wouldn't be suitable for Mont Blanc.

I guess what I'm saying is, find a group or some guides and explain the skills and variety of the group and that you want to climb Mont Blanc but you'd like them to have an alternative plan in place should the weather not be agreeable to climb Mont Blanc. When the weather is poor in Chamonix, taking the Mont Blanc tunnel to Italy is usually a good alternative as the weather can be better on the Italian side.

You should go though, it's an amazing experience

SomeFool

Did it a good few years ago. Was very lucky with both the weather and our guide. Did the trios monts route which was a fantastic but long day out. Was quite fit at the time and while it's correct that weather and reaction to altitude are the two biggest factors in the alps, fitness is one you can actually control and is certainly an asset on what will be a long day at the end of a long week. The quicker you are the less exposed to danger you will be.

However you go about doing it, (we did a week long course) don't forget your guide is not just someone you follow around but a fantastic resource to learn from, engage with them and don't be afraid to ask questions! As has been suggested already if you can't do Mt Blanc due to weather Italy is close and Grand Paradiso is a rewarding alpine 4000er, may even be worth doing as a warm up as part of your week.

Have a search here as this question has been asked before and there should be a detailed thread around.

This article from UKC is an excellent overview, good starting point!

Good luck!! Well worth it!

blacklilly

Thanks for the replies and information, it's very helpful.

There definitely seems to be a very naive attitude towards hiking/climbing in general from inexperienced people.

Good job I've a sensible head on my shoulders.

BarryD

sparrowcar wrote: »

Bravado comments like this are what get inexperienced people in trouble.

In fairness, 'bravado' is a pretty subjective term. It's perfectly OK, IMHO for someone to say the normal route is a 'simple climb' if their experience & capability is way beyond yours! You'd need to know their background before dissing their view!

Carawaystick above gave good advice, from what I know of the route. Crossing the Grand Couloir is the chancy bit as a good bit of rockfall comes down it. He also pointed the OP to Robbie Fenlon, a chap who knows his stuff.

sparrowcar

BarryD wrote: »

In fairness, 'bravado' is a pretty subjective term. It's perfectly OK, IMHO for someone to say the normal route is a 'simple climb' if their experience & capability is way beyond yours! You'd need to know their background before dissing their view!

Carawaystick above gave good advice, from what I know of the route. Crossing the Grand Couloir is the chancy bit as a good bit of rockfall comes down it. He also pointed the OP to Robbie Fenlon, a chap who knows his stuff.

I used the term in an objective manner. The OP is not in a position with his group to do a "simple climb" on MB as he states that fitness and experience are lacking in the group.

I don't care what carawaysticks abilities are as they don't relate to the OP's question and as far as "dissing" his view I'm very sorry for dissing your homie but this isn't about him or you it's about the OP!?

unkel

I don't think any of us disagree really!

Obviously people with different levels of skill and experience regard it in different ways . That said for someone inexperienced like the OP (or me) Mont Blanc is no walk in the park. If you are fit and motivated and obviously hire a professional guide, it is doable in the right circumstances with some basic training before provided you can handle the altitude. Don't underestimate this. I went up the lift to the Aiguille du Midi myself in the 90s and just walking up a few flights of stairs to the platform (3,900m or so?) would have you panting

In the common ascent of Mont Blanc, the "overnight" (getting up at about 12 midnight or 1) in that hut doesn't appeal to me at all, but the one thing that made me decide never to go for Mont Blanc is the Grand Couloir. Far too risky for me. That said, I am a risk-averse person. I would never do anything just for the craic that has a one in a hundred or one in a thousand or one in ten thousand or whatever low like that or so chance of killing me.

That Grand Couloir is just Russian Roulette to me...

Carawaystick

The OP stated they ranged from very fit to average fitness.
I'm assuming the OP is planning a summer ascent, so they have several months to improve their fitness.
The OP stated they'd be hiring a guide. Chamonix Guides aren't some johhny come lately fellas, and would assess their clients ability to climb.

I'm assuming they'd only climb in good weather.

There is no technical ability required to climb the ordinary route, apart from being able to walk in crampons.

The OP doesn't state what level of climbing they've done.
I'd rate
Carrot Ridge off the Inagh Valley in Galway
The Reeks from the Devils Ladder back to Cruach Mór
The Faha Ridge up Mount Brandon
The Caher-Corrauntuthail-Beenkeragh horseshoe
as having a higher technical ability.


It is just summit bagging though, there's loads of other interesting basic level mountaineering a guide could do with you, including teaching some technical skills far from the crowds.

SomeFool

Carawaystick wrote: »

The OP doesn't state what level of climbing they've done.
I'd rate
Carrot Ridge off the Inagh Valley in Galway
The Reeks from the Devils Ladder back to Cruach Mór
The Faha Ridge up Mount Brandon
The Caher-Corrauntuthail-Beenkeragh horseshoe
as having a higher technical ability.

None of which feature a glacier crossing, altitude or the lottery that is the grand couloir. I'd argue that Bosses ridge is more intimidating than some of what you've listed too. It may not be more technical but is certainly more committing and engaging. It's a test of your wits, fitness, endurance and personality and a real mountaineering achievement! The OP may well go on to do more in the Alps after but as a first experience it will be unforgettable.

As for the OP, no single guide will lead six on a Mt Blanc summit climb so your party will be split on the hill anyway. If some of the group don't have the legs for Mt Blanc they will still find plenty suitable routes around Cham and get loads from a week there. I will agree with Carawaystick in that there are loads of different options in the Alps if it's just that experience and learning you want, would recommend the Saas valley, but if your heart is set on Mt Blanc I say go for it.

denis b

;Think you have a good measure of the difficulties and others here have made some very sensible suggestions. It might be worth considering Mountaineering Irelands Annual Alpine Summer Meet. Plenty of courses on offer which will give some experience and allow you assess if it is feasible this year. Sometimes the journey is more interesting than the destination, though the summit is pretty special. Well worth the effort in serving a mountaineering apprenticeship to further your interest and ambition.

Worth considering the effects of weather, tiredness, altitude, movement on ice and snow fields, stress, dehydration, heat/cold, inexperience and fitness. I would not regard the Gouter Route as difficult (in physical terms for a fit person) but it is serious. There are rockfall dangers (Grand Couloir - which is widening by the season and therefore increasingly difficult to cross), you will need to be comfortable at scrambling (from the Grand Couloir to the Gouter Hut in the afternoon sun at altitude) , there are a number of ice sections below and above the Vallot Hut (Emergency use only) and then the famous Bosses ( a surreal and exposed snow ridge that drops away either side to France and Italy).

We managed to climb the route ourselves after having previously been repulsed on the traverse - made it as far as Mont Maudit from the Vallee Blanche. The group of 4 were reasonably fit (would have managed the Lug Walk, Commeragh Bog Trot, Glover and Maamturks in reasonably good time and shape). Of course they are a different experience but that was the level of fitness we possessed. The Alps are, however, a totally different experience and it would be a good idea on the same trip to spend several days walking/climbing at increasing altitude prior to any ascent of Mt. Blanc. Make sure you pencil in recovery days in the valley before tackling the next objective. I would strongly recommend this approach even if you are taking a guide. They should insist on it!!

The more experience you have with ropes, crampons and ice axes at altitude before you make your attempt then the more you are likely to enjoy, succeed and profit from the experience.

Enjoy the planning and learning and dont forget to report back