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Levelling wooden floor

  • 14-02-2016 6:57pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,004 ✭✭✭


    Hi folks,
    Last owners of house had a seriously heavy bed in the room upstairs. Result was sagged joists in floor. We put in a click floor a few years ago but there is a hollow area in the floor and spring in the click flooring..
    Question is what's the easiest way of levelling the floor? If I lift the click floor is there any sort of self levelling compound I could put on top of the original floorboards and once dry re lay the click floor?
    Cheers,
    Mick


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,555 ✭✭✭antiskeptic


    Hi folks,
    Last owners of house had a seriously heavy bed in the room upstairs. Result was sagged joists in floor. We put in a click floor a few years ago but there is a hollow area in the floor and spring in the click flooring..
    Question is what's the easiest way of levelling the floor? If I lift the click floor is there any sort of self levelling compound I could put on top of the original floorboards and once dry re lay the click floor?
    Cheers,
    Mick

    What about tile adhesive for wooden floors? It's obviously flexible enough.

    Else a load of screws screwed into the dipped area, each left proud of the floor with final depth sorted by a level Depending on how heavily the area is traffiked / total area involved, you can add more or less

    Else, if the area is quite large blobs of tek 7 with a square of thin plywood squished down on top (cut somewhat smaller than the hollow and levelled with reference to the surrounding floor

    Else, if the lamnit has a tongue/groove effect, discreet use of a nail gun / fine panel pins shot in at angles (so that they don't spring back out) to hold the floor down into the hollow


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,560 ✭✭✭Prenderb


    Just consider whether the joists need to be looked at and assessed before you go adding extra weight on them by means of self-levelling compound...it's hard to imagine a bed being heavy enough to cause this sort of sagging unless joists were undersized?

    The other thought is to see whether the flooring has raised in the centre (if it has expanded it will tend to rise) rather than the joists sagging if you know what I mean?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,004 ✭✭✭micks_address


    Prenderb wrote: »
    Just consider whether the joists need to be looked at and assessed before you go adding extra weight on them by means of self-levelling compound...it's hard to imagine a bed being heavy enough to cause this sort of sagging unless joists were undersized?

    The other thought is to see whether the flooring has raised in the centre (if it has expanded it will tend to rise) rather than the joists sagging if you know what I mean?


    It was a big sleigh bed.. I don't know..


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,827 ✭✭✭fred funk }{


    A bed won't cause a floor to sag unless there's something wrong with the joists to begin with.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,004 ✭✭✭micks_address


    A bed won't cause a floor to sag unless there's something wrong with the joists to begin with.

    I'll lift the floor this week and check.. It may have been where the original floor boards were cut for access to plumbing and not relaid properly


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 424 ✭✭e.r


    A fibre based compound will do on floorboards.

    Like posted already provided no structural issues


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,004 ✭✭✭micks_address


    e.r wrote: »
    A fibre based compound will do on floorboards.

    Like posted already provided no structural issues

    Some investigation this morning,
    Looks like joists are solid just plumber butchered floor at some stage

    1415k6b.jpg

    What's the best way to sort this out? Getting plumber in next week to sort existing pipes as they in a mess and fix rad.

    How to fix floor?
    Thanks
    Mick


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,004 ✭✭✭micks_address


    2lvcxfo.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 42 Parky2


    Would you consider whipping out those old boards and sheeting with 18mm plywood? A much neater job and you can fix up any plumbing and electrics while you are at it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,004 ✭✭✭micks_address


    Parky2 wrote: »
    Would you consider whipping out those old boards and sheeting with 18mm plywood? A much neater job and you can fix up any plumbing and electrics while you are at it.

    I'll consider anything. Will get plumbing sorted first then sort floor.

    Only issue I'd have is the original boards would be running under wardrobe and I don't want to interfere with that.
    Thanks
    Mick


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 424 ✭✭e.r


    Fairly standard plumbing carpentry😂 Cross noggin/ supports and providing it's fairly stable your good to go. What type of flooring is going down ?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,004 ✭✭✭micks_address


    e.r wrote: »
    Fairly standard plumbing carpentry😂 Cross noggin/ supports and providing it's fairly stable your good to go. What type of flooring is going down ?

    Laminate click flooring..


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 424 ✭✭e.r


    Laminate click flooring..
    6mm ply and then some 5 or 7 mm fibre board should do the job.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19 navyddr713


    Do what Parky2 said to do, short cuts only make more work in the long run...


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