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Faulty Motorised Valve?

  • 05-02-2016 10:26pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 254 ✭✭


    Hi all

    I recently installed some new smart thermostats. The install went a bit worse than I originally hoped but it is pretty much all sorted now except that the hot water is on constantly now

    I called the manufacturer when I was having problems so I am sure it is all wired correctly. They suggested that their control unit could be faulty but I wasn't sure of that.

    However I thought I would check the motorised valve as the control unit is trying to send the signal to turn off the water so I thought maybe the valve was the issue

    The light is on most of the time but sometimes it is off (why though I am not sure) but I have never caught it going off so haven't heard if the motor is firing.

    I checked the manual override and it is really loose. There is no resistance at all. I'm pretty sure this means it is faulty?

    Would this then cause the symptoms I am seeing? Are they simple enough to replace?

    Thanks


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 254 ✭✭Deanicus


    Sorry, meant to mention that I have a sunvic sz2401


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,417 ✭✭✭Diemos


    We had the same issue, turned out to be a fault valve. a quick test is to disconnect the valve and see if the issue resolves itself.
    Just leave the valve open, your heating will do your hotwater at the same time until you get a new switch to fit.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 254 ✭✭Deanicus


    Diemos wrote: »
    We had the same issue, turned out to be a fault valve. a quick test is to disconnect the valve and see if the issue resolves itself.
    Just leave the valve open, your heating will do your hotwater at the same time until you get a new switch to fit.

    Thanks Diemos

    What exactly is involved in disconnecting the valve? Do you mean removing the motor etc and just leave the valve open?

    After doing a bit more reading, the loose lever is a red herring. It is only loose when it is on. I turned the power off to the system and it is firm again.

    I am now though starting to think it is the controller. Only after sitting here in silence have I noticed that it is clicking every minute. At first I thought it was because it is telling the hot water to stop heating and being unsuccessful it keeps trying. However I set the water to on and it is still clicking so perhaps the company is right?

    I suppose I won't really know until I replace one of them. Considering the valve is off sometimes I am inclined to believe it is the controller and that it is successful sometimes in switching the relay off but only for a short while.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 254 ✭✭Deanicus


    Also to give a bit more info

    The boiler is shutting off every few minutes but then resumes within about 5 seconds. Again not sure if this is the programmer not shutting off a signal correctly or if the valve is calling for water and overriding the programmer

    Is there a way to diagnose which one it is?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 254 ✭✭Deanicus


    **Double post**


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,417 ✭✭✭Diemos


    I mean unscrew the motorised valve from it's mount.

    then disconnect the wiring (be very careful) (Just remove one wire is the safest way).

    Try it for one valve then the other until the issue resolves itself.
    Then whichever valve it is, just leave it disconnected (insulating tape around the wire) and leave the valve itself open.
    In my case it was the hot water one, so it meant we had to turn on the central heating to get warm water.
    Until we could get a new valve.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 254 ✭✭Deanicus


    Diemos wrote: »
    I mean unscrew the motorised valve from it's mount.

    then disconnect the wiring (be very careful) (Just remove one wire is the safest way).

    Try it for one valve then the other until the issue resolves itself.
    Then whichever valve it is, just leave it disconnected (insulating tape around the wire) and leave the valve itself open.
    In my case it was the hot water one, so it meant we had to turn on the central heating to get warm water.
    Until we could get a new valve.

    Sorry, not getting notifications for posts on the thread

    I know what you mean now. I am pretty convinced now though that it is the controller. I turned water thermostat down and the valve shut (confirmed as hours later the water was colder)


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