Requirements for changing a groupset

flatface

So I have a 11speed 105 groupset in the post, a basic toolkit, chain lube, lithium grease and only a little mech experience.
I can either get a shop to fit the groupset or do it myself if I don't need to buy too much more kit.

Do I need a torque wrench? Do I need any specialist grease or threadlock?

JBokeh

It would do no harm to pick up a bit of the blue lock tite from the hardware shop, and using it on the bolts for the shifter clamps, front mech bolts, rear mech bolt and B tension screw (if it doesn't have some on it already) brake mounting bolts, and pad bolts.

Bit of grease for the pedals and the crank axle. You'd get away without a torque wrench, you can generally get a feel for how tight everything should be. If you doubt yourself you may as well get one, if you look after them, they last a good while

JBokeh

It would do no harm to pick up a bit of the blue lock tite from the hardware shop, and using it on the bolts for the shifter clamps, front mech bolts, rear mech bolt and B tension screw (if it doesn't have some on it already) brake mounting bolts, and pad bolts.

Bit of grease for the pedals and the crank axle. You'd get away without a torque wrench, you can generally get a feel for how tight everything should be. If you doubt yourself you may as well get one, if you look after them, they last a good while

crosstownk

flatface wrote: »

So I have a 11speed 105 groupset in the post, a basic toolkit, chain lube, lithium grease and only a little mech experience.
I can either get a shop to fit the groupset or do it myself if I don't need to buy too much more kit.

Do I need a torque wrench? Do I need any specialist grease or threadlock?

What groupset are you replacing with the 105? You may need pullers and a tool to remove your current cranks and bottom bracket if it's not Hollowtech. You'll also need a tool to install the 105 BB. An adapter will come with the new BB. You may need something like a power bar to remove the old BB.

Other than that, a decent set of allen keys and a good cable cutter is all you should need.

It might also be worth considering replacing the bar tape too while you're at it.

cython

Make sure to have a good cable cutters also, using a pliers will most likely end badly, and it would be a shame to mar what I assume is an upgrade in that manner. JBokeh has it pretty much covered otherwise, but RE the torque wrench, if you're fitting it to a carbon frame it wouldn't be a bad idea, as they are particular sensitive to over torquing (and thus it would be an advisable tool for maintenance on same anyway )

flatface

Thanks for the replies, the Bb is integrated duraace recently replaced in shop so I won't be replacing it. The present cranks are 105 10 speed 5600 I think. I did try taking the cranks off before and met with a lot of resistance so think a rubber mallet maybe in order.
I'd forgotten about cables and cutters!

Overall with the bits and pieces required I think it will end up cheaper and definitely faster to get the shop to do this one and I can stick to maintenance once all is set up.

Koobcam

flatface wrote: »

So I have a 11speed 105 groupset in the post, a basic toolkit, chain lube, lithium grease and only a little mech experience.
I can either get a shop to fit the groupset or do it myself if I don't need to buy too much more kit.

Do I need a torque wrench? Do I need any specialist grease or threadlock?

You might be better off bring your bike to a shop to have the groupset fitted. It would probably cost a couple of hundred, but at least you would have an expert doing it. However, fitting it yourself could also be a good way to learn how your bike works and it's not really that difficult if you are somewhat mechanically minded. The cost of the tools you might need could end up being at least as much as the cost of the fitting in a bike shop.
I would definitely get a torque wrench. If you are experienced in assembling a bike, you would be fine without one, but it seems that you are probably doing this for the first time, so best to get one. Other things needed would be the tool to adjust the bearing tension on the non-drive side crank arm. You can get this for about a fiver in a bunch of places, though there are also more expensive park tool variants. Get a good set of cable cutters-something that can deal with compressionless housing and also has a kind of auxilliary function to crimp the cable end thingies (can't remember what they are called). Shimano chains come with a linking pin, and I think this requires a special tool to fit. What I normally do is first remove a few links until the chain is the required length and then use a Sram power link to join the chain - this way it's easy to remove. Power links cost around a fiver each. If you've already got a BB in place, I reckon the cables are the bits that you can potentially get wrong. The normal advice is to use your old cables as a guide but that works only if the original cables have been sized correctly. I would generally try to have the cables follow the route that is optimum for minimising friction, though sometimes it's hard to avoid awkward bends and routing-depends on the frame. Another bit of equipment that might be useful would be a bike stand-you can put the bike together without one but having the stand, particularly one that can pivot so that you can swing the bike around to the place you are working on, is very handy. I suppose if this is a one time only job, you could just borrow this (and the other tools). A couple of other things that would be handy to have are a tub of grease and some assembly paste

jamesd

I'm interested to see how much a bike shop could charge for changing out a groupset.

Smokeyskelton

Alternatively OP could organise a bike build party. Each guest brings a specified tool, (ooer missus), and provides a bit of advice.

OP provides beer / soft drinks and food.

By the end of the day / evening OP has shiny upgraded bike.

p.s. Beer to be rationed until crucial build tasks have been completed, for safety reasons.

Brian?

JBokeh wrote: »

It would do no harm to pick up a bit of the blue lock tite from the hardware shop, and using it on the bolts for the shifter clamps, front mech bolts, rear mech bolt and B tension screw (if it doesn't have some on it already) brake mounting bolts, and pad bolts.

Bit of grease for the pedals and the crank axle. You'd get away without a torque wrench, you can generally get a feel for how tight everything should be. If you doubt yourself you may as well get one, if you look after them, they last a good while

I despise locktite and would never use it on any of the above.

As to the main question, fit it yourself. It's simples really, I'm pretty sure you can do everything from youtube videos with standard tool kit. I have a lidl tool kit for years and have never had any work done at a bike shop. The only extra tool I needed was to change a threaded BB, which you're not doing. The rest is all allen keys.

flatface

Ok I took the plunge and bought a parks cable cutters for €25 on wiggle, a 1/4 inch drive torque wrench for €30 on CRC and a 1/4 inch hex set from Maplins for €5.99 so it should cost less to do it myself + learn some skills.

I've hit my first snag. The cable guide under the bottom bracket for rear derailleur and brake has come loose. What can I stick it back on with??

flatface

route66

I did the same thing last weekend - upgraded my bike to 105 groupset - but in my case, the cables were internal and the guide clicked into a gap under the BB. This suggests that these things tend to be proprietary - certainly mine wouldn't fit any other bike.

On my last bike, the guide was attached with a bolt. I haven't seen a stick on one before - certainly for the BB area. Stick-on guides for downtubes are available online but they won't do the job for you.

As to your options, the best thing would be to get a new guide from the manufacturer. The other option would be to get what you have to work. The guide itself is just that - the only weight it takes is it's own and the 2 cables that run underneath will tend to hold it in place.

If it was me, I'd remove the residual sticky gunk, clean the area thoroughly - including the underneath of the guide itself - and then use some clear sealant , nicely compressed when the guide is replaced. I would guess the surface area should be enough to keep it in place. An alternative would be some double-sided stick tape - might be able to get this in a place like Woodies. Depending on how you get on, you could order up a new guide if the bodge doesn't look like it will last.

Best of luck!

flatface

Thanks for that, the guide looks fine and it was just affixed with the glue so with the right adhesive I will reuse it.
I am just a bit concerned about getting the right sticky stuff that won't harm the carbon or paint.

The present glue feels like silicone and comes off easy. Any ideas?

route66

flatface wrote: »

Thanks for that, the guide looks fine and it was just affixed with the glue so with the right adhesive I will reuse it.
I am just a bit concerned about getting the right sticky stuff that won't harm the carbon or paint.

The present glue feels like silicone and comes off easy. Any ideas?

Clear sealant - like the stuff you get in hardware shops for sealing around plumbing fittings - should do the trick. I've just checked and an old one I have says it's silicon-based. I don't think carbon fibre is that delicate that this would cause a problem.

Better get your skates on if you need to get some - you have about an hour ...

flatface

Silicon sealant grand, will give it a go