Riello G3 burner

Wearb

Just back from this burner. Customer said yesterday that it was stopping and starting. (No great English so didn't get any fine detail) Called this evening to find not a sound out of it, not even buzzing. Power to the Control box baseplate. Neutral seems ok. No lockout light. Tried a different control box, no difference. Tried it without the PC, still nothing. Fan turns freely. Came pissing down, so left it until tomorrow.

Baseplate to CB connection for L looked a bit doggy, so I bent them back to a better position, made no difference.

Must look at MI's to see what jumber I need to directly turn the motor.

Does this sound like a motor problem? Or are there other suggestions.

agusta

Did you get 240 volts across live and neutral using a multimeter,You may have a problem with the neutral wire

Wearb

agusta wrote: »

Did you get 240 volts across live and neutral using a multimeter,You may have a problem with the neutral wire

Yes I did agusta. Was first thing I checked. Got same from live to earth and nothing n to e.

Wearb

Went back at this today. Windy but at least dry and bright.
Decided to run the basic tests again and direct feed the motor before removing the burner to replace motor.
Capacitor checked out ok. BUT now I was only getting 178 volts between L and N. I checked voltage at supply to boiler stat and still 178. Checked at timer and 238. Back out to boiler again and got 238.
I put a 500w lamp on the boiler stat feed. It flickered and went out. Less than 10V at boiler now. But 238 from L to E

So a broken N wire that was touching at the break. I started inspecting the wire and eventually found it had been chewed between house and cabinpac. I could barely see it as the gap was only about an inch. I couldn't budge the wire to pull it back to house or out to boiler. So I spent all afternoon, putting in a new wire. Everything running now.

I am only going into such detail so that it may help someone else with a similar problem. And to point out that voltage without load can mislead.

Wearb

Went back at this today. Windy but at least dry and bright.
Decided to run the basic tests again and direct feed the motor before removing the burner to replace motor.
Capacitor checked out ok. BUT now I was only getting 178 volts between L and N. I checked voltage at supply to boiler stat and still 178. Checked at timer and 238. Back out to boiler again and got 238.
I put a 500w lamp on the boiler stat feed. It flickered and went out. Less than 10V at boiler now. But 238 from L to E

So a broken N wire that was touching at the break. I started inspecting the wire and eventually found it had been chewed between house and cabinpac. I could barely see it as the gap was only about an inch. I couldn't budge the wire to pull it back to house or out to boiler. So I spent all afternoon, putting in a new wire. Everything running now.

I am only going into such detail so that it may help someone else with a similar problem. And to point out that voltage without load can mislead.

DGOBS

Sorry for the late input, had that with chewed wires and rats in the past

Wearb

DGOBS wrote: »

Sorry for the late input, had that with chewed wires and rats in the past

I hate f00king rats :eek:. I would rather face a poisonous snake.:eek:

Anyway it just proves that in certain circumstances, its never any harm to put a bit of a load on supply when testing. Just be careful where you put it and the current draw of the load. I am not a sparks, but I suspect that it is better to use a resistive load in this instance. I suppose that ideally the load would need to be drawing about 3A, but the 500w draw (2A) that I used would still be well above the burner demand.

Link to pic