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Power Shower air lock??

  • 25-01-2016 8:14am
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 87 ✭✭


    10+ year old house has a gravity heating system with an Aqualisa E99 power shower (white one) in downstairs bathroom. The mixer was leaking (from the left hand side nut beside on/off valve) so sourced and replaced all o rings (and applied silicone) on spindle which fixed the leak. My problem now is when I turn on the shower water only exits slowly and not nearly as powerful as before. I suspect I have an air lock in the hot water? pipes to immersion. Note All other hot/cold water taps in house are OK which suggests issue in power shower feed lines only.

    I connected the outside tap (mains) by hose to the shower hose using a round hose connection, turned on the shower and put the mixer valve to middle setting and then turned on the mains water to try push the air bubble out. I left mains on for over 30 sec. This had no apparent affect and same slow flow from shower.

    Is the problem and air lock in pipes –where? And if so how can I remove it. Maybe my mains pressure was not enough to overcome the head of water??


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,444 ✭✭✭sky6


    Have you tried hanging the Shower head straight down into the shower tray and then turning on the pump. This very often fixes that very problem.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 87 ✭✭agentsmith


    hi sky6 - i would say i did as initially lowered to reduce dripping noise so lieing flat in tray but will definetly try again - are you in agreement that definetly airlock? do i just turn on full and leave for a while and/or move mixer valve to on a bit also to free?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 17,189 ✭✭✭✭Sleeper12


    It doesn't sound like an airlock at all. .

    Either the cartridge or the spindle needs replacing.

    The silicon wasn't a great idea.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 87 ✭✭agentsmith


    Sleeper12 wrote: »
    It doesn't sound like an airlock at all. .

    Either the cartridge or the spindle needs replacing.

    The silicon wasn't a great idea.

    Thanks for reply - although sure hope not cartridge given likley cost to replace. As mentioned initial problem was a drip leak from securing nut which i understand is a fairly common fault and usually indicates worn seals. On visual inspection some orings were deteriorated and worn flat and hard. A light coating of plumbers silcone gel/grease was applied on each o ring when fitting to help lubricate and prevent any damage. Currious to knowwhy you feel it was a bad idea to use silicone ?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 17,189 ✭✭✭✭Sleeper12


    agentsmith wrote:
    Thanks for reply - although sure hope not cartridge given likley cost to replace. As mentioned initial problem was a drip leak from securing nut which i understand is a fairly common fault and usually indicates worn seals. On visual inspection some orings were deteriorated and worn flat and hard. A light coating of plumbers silcone gel/grease was applied on each o ring when fitting to help lubricate and prevent any damage. Currious to knowwhy you feel it was a bad idea to use silicone ?


    Because that's not what silicone is for. It's the opposite to lubricant. When it set it goes hard where a lubricant doesn't.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,257 ✭✭✭deandean


    I have the same problem with an aqualisa power shower whenever the attic tank is drained. What works for me is: make sure the attic tank is full. turn the temperature dial to cold. Let the shower head hang down. Turn the shower pump on. And wait. It can take 10 minutes but it will prime itself. Then turn the dial to hot and repeat.
    Best of luck!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,257 ✭✭✭deandean


    I have the same problem with an aqualisa power shower whenever the attic tank is drained. What works for me is: make sure the attic tank is full. turn the temperature dial to cold. Let the shower head hang down. Turn the shower pump on. And wait. It can take 10 minutes but it will prime itself. Then turn the dial to hot and repeat.
    Best of luck!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 87 ✭✭agentsmith


    Sleeper12 wrote: »
    Because that's not what silicone is for. It's the opposite to lubricant. When it set it goes hard where a lubricant doesn't.

    :D think you misunderstood - it was silicone grease i applied not silcone sealant, granted big difference but not what i applied as used lubricant grease which is widely used for lubricating and preserving rubber parts such as orings


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 87 ✭✭agentsmith


    deandean wrote: »
    I have the same problem with an aqualisa power shower whenever the attic tank is drained. What works for me is: make sure the attic tank is full. turn the temperature dial to cold. Let the shower head hang down. Turn the shower pump on. And wait. It can take 10 minutes but it will prime itself. Then turn the dial to hot and repeat.
    Best of luck!

    Not sure any tanks drained as some water flow when turn on - but will check status of all tanks later.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 87 ✭✭agentsmith


    sky6 wrote: »
    Have you tried hanging the Shower head straight down into the shower tray and then turning on the pump. This very often fixes that very problem.

    Tried last night but did not seem to work. :( tried varying mixer valve and although some water noises no change in flow


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