MF 135 alternator

Matty6270

Hi
I was having problems with my 135 as you would have to heat d tractor for a full minute for it to start. And if it was not started for 2-3 hours you would have to heat it again. When the tractor is running I checked d voltage of the battery and it reads 12.6v. I think it should read 14.6. So I replaced the alternator because I thought that was the problem. It still reads 12.8v. I also changed the battery a few months ago

Jb1989

Matty6270 wrote: »

Hi
I was having problems with my 135 as you would have to heat d tractor for a full minute for it to start. And if it was not started for 2-3 hours you would have to heat it again. When the tractor is running I checked d voltage of the battery and it reads 12.6v. I think it should read 14.6. So I replaced the alternator because I thought that was the problem. It still reads 12.8v. I also changed the battery a few months ago

Can't remember voltage reading but would the regulator box under the dashboard be a possible problem ?

Matty6270

I am not sure about that. I know where it is alright.

emaherx

Is it an alternator or a dynamo in the tractor? If it's an alternator I'd expect about 14v anything over 13v should be charging well enough.

If on the other hand it's a dynamo it won't be producing more than your 12.8V when the tractor is ideling.

I'm not sure what voltage you should get when you rev the tractor up but the 135 is fitted with an ampmeter and this should go +ve if the battery is charging.

Why do you think it an alternator/dynamo issue. Does it start without heat if you charge it?

If heating for a minute helps it start I think you have either a lazy starter that's just not turning over the engine fast enough or else poor compression. Is it very smokey after starting?

Does the battery actually run down after a couple of starts?

Matty6270

Can you use a alternator instead of a dynamo ? The tractor isn't to smokey. It is like starting a cold tractor all the time. When you turn the key it starts to turn over very slow. Then it just kicks in and starts

emaherx

Matty6270 wrote: »

Can you use a alternator instead of a dynamo ? The tractor isn't to smokey. It is like starting a cold tractor all the time. When you turn the key it starts to turn over very slow. Then it just kicks in and starts

You can replace the dynamo with an alternator. But you need a new wiring loom, ignition switch and an indicator lamp for the dashboard. But don't rush out and do that yet.

Fully charge your battery using a mains charger, if it's still slow to start consider the starter as issue.

Belongamick

It is prob not a battery issue but had a non starting 135 recently, charged battery on mains and no joy. Starter was refurbed due to age (small job), alternator was tested fine, wiring OK. Turned out to be the battery after all.
When a 'load' was put on the battery (starting tractor) the battery was too old to be charged properly - was showing 12V but could not handle a load.
Changed battery - tractor started first time.

Matty6270

I have just noticed tonight that there is oil spitting out from the dip stick. Also the lift pump is leaking from a small hole at d side were the primer is. I have only noticed the leak in the last few days put the tractor has been hard started since I bought it 12 months ago. It has only been running a few days since. I hope the hole engine hasn't to be done. Any ideas
Thanks

Avns1s

Matty6270 wrote: »

I have just noticed tonight that there is oil spitting out from the dip stick. Also the lift pump is leaking from a small hole at d side were the primer is. I have only noticed the leak in the last few days put the tractor has been hard started since I bought it 12 months ago. It has only been running a few days since. I hope the hole engine hasn't to be done. Any ideas
Thanks

Diaphragm in the lift pump is punctured and leaking diesel into the sump of the engine.

Replace the lift pump with a new one and change the oil and filter.

Matty6270

Would that make the tractor hard started as well

emaherx

Matty6270 wrote: »

Would that make the tractor hard started as well

It could very well be. You mentioned engine turns over a bit slowly so that could still be the starter.

However lift pump is cheap. Now would be a good time for a full service oil and filters, you might as well do the diesel filters as well since you will need to bleed the system anyway.

Matty6270

Thanks for the info. Is there not only the one engine oil filter and one dorsal filter. I will do this tomorrow and let you know. I was afraid that there might be to much of a blow in the engine that was causing the starting problem

Nekarsulm

Oil spitting from the dipstick usually = worn engine bores/rings.
This will cause low compression and harder starting. You possibly have a lazy started motor as well.
Rebuild on the cards I think.

Matty6270

Well I hope not. Or she will be for the road. There doesn't seem to be a big blow from the engine that I can see.

Matty6270

I do think the oil is very light

White Clover

Matty6270 wrote: »

Well I hope not. Or she will be for the road. There doesn't seem to be a big blow from the engine that I can see.

A rebuild of that engine wouldn't set you back much. Even a set of pistons and rings could do alot for it.

Matty6270

Well how much are to talking do you think that is my problem.

Nekarsulm

Change the oil and filters anyway, and the diaphragm in the lift pump. You could have a gallon of diesel in the sump, washing down the cylinder bores and causing both extra wear and lower compression.
You could get the valves clearance set when you're at it.You could be losing a bit of compression there as well. A good starter and battery and she could soldier on for a decade without taking the plunge and rebuilding. Fifty euro could do a lot for her. Had connections on battery leads could be an issue well.

Matty6270

Would any mechanic do the valve clearance setting

Nekarsulm

Any one with a set of €5 feeler guages, two spanners and a spare half hour could do it.

emaherx

Matty6270 wrote: »

Thanks for the info. Is there not only the one engine oil filter and one dorsal filter. I will do this tomorrow and let you know. I was afraid that there might be to much of a blow in the engine that was causing the starting problem

There is one engine oil filter but two diesel filters. You may need to look up the correct bleeding procedure if you don't know it already. As in you can't just replace the filters and lift pump and expect it to start without bleeding the system first.

emaherx

Just realised I missed a lot of this thread. Don't over react yet. Change your oil, diesel and oil filters and your lift pump.

Answer the earlier question does the tractor start easier if the battery is charged using a mains charger? If so then look at your dynamo/ regulator

If not, dose it seem to be turning over slower than it should (ie lazy starter). A new starter will make a huge difference. Even consider a high speed starter which will make starting a whole lot easier, even if your engine is a little on the worn side. Question you need to ask here is how much work do you/will you use this tractor for?

If it's light work and there is a little spitting from dipstick but very little smoke then a higher speed starter may well suit you.

Matty6270

I just finished servicing the tractor. And changed d lift pump. Still hard started and putting some. Oil up the dip stick but a guy told me a lot of them do that. I did notice that the air breather is completely blocked with sh... Also there is a big hole in the pipe going from the engine to the breather.

emaherx

Matty6270 wrote: »

I just finished servicing the tractor. And changed d lift pump. Still hard started and putting some. Oil up the dip stick but a guy told me a lot of them do that. I did notice that the air breather is completely blocked with sh... Also there is a big hole in the pipe going from the engine to the breather.

It may have not been the issue, but it needed to be done. Have you tried starting the tractor directly after charging the battery with mains charger? I still think your engine is just not turning over quick enough.

Also check your battery leads are any of the connections getting hot when cranking?

And you really need to replace the pipe from the air breather.

Again a little spitting from the dipstick is sign of some engine ware but I'm not convinced that this is your issue, like you said it's not uncommon for a tractor of its age, and you will probably gain very little from a rebuild. Does the tractor run/idle Ok once it starts?

Matty6270

Sorry for the late reply. Yea the tractor does run well when idle. Just have to a new air breather and pipe. I am borrowing a starter tomorrow of a 135 so I will know more then.

Matty6270

emaherx wrote: »

Matty6270 wrote: »

I just finished servicing the tractor. And changed d lift pump. Still hard started and putting some. Oil up the dip stick but a guy told me a lot of them do that. I did notice that the air breather is completely blocked with sh... Also there is a big hole in the pipe going from the engine to the breather.

It may have not been the issue, but it needed to be done. Have you tried starting the tractor directly after charging the battery with mains charger? I still think your engine is just not turning over quick enough.

Also check your battery leads are any of the connections getting hot when cranking?

And you really need to replace the pipe from the air breather.

Again a little spitting from the dipstick is sign of some engine ware but I'm not convinced that this is your issue, like you said it's not uncommon for a tractor of its age, and you will probably gain very little from a rebuild. Does the tractor run/idle Ok once it starts?

Add your reply here.
Small bit of news about my 135. Had a guy look at it today and he said the tappers have to no set right. They are to tight leaving bad compression and it hard started. Would this be right