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Discoloured Hot Water, Advice Sought

  • 03-01-2016 9:26pm
    #1
    ruicosta10
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 55 ✭✭


    Hi all,

    In my house, I have a standard vented system (attic tank feeding hot water cylinder, which is 10 years old). The attic tank is covered and insulated. We are on mains water, supplied by Roundwood to the Dun Laoghaire Rathdown area.

    The hot water from the cylinder always has an 'earthy' smell, and is slightly discoloured. If you open more than one of the hot taps simultaneously for a minute or more, some green algae-like stuff can be observed. I have tried a few times over the years to introduce Milton into the attic tank, run it through, and allow it to sit for a while before running the taps again.

    This helps for a short time, but the problem always resurfaces. The mains water is pretty much devoid of chlorine and has a yellow tinge, but we have had this tested and been assured that it meets regulations.

    Would be great if someone could offer any advice on how to confront this issue.


Comments

  • #2
    DublinDilbert
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,401 ✭✭✭DublinDilbert


    What sort of heating system have you got in the house? Gas/Oil? Is the heating system a sealed or open system? do you have to top it up often?

    Just to confirm you are only getting this foul water from the hot taps in the house?


  • #3
    ruicosta10
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 55 ✭✭ruicosta10


    DublinDilbert wrote: »
    What sort of heating system have you got in the house? Gas/Oil? Is the heating system a sealed or open system? do you have to top it up often?

    Just to confirm you are only getting this foul water from the hot taps in the house?

    Hi there, the heating system is oil. To the best of my knowledge, it is an open system, though I must admit I'm slightly ignorant of the terminology. The boiler heats the rads and the hot water cylinder at once.

    As far as I am aware, the problem is limited to the hot taps.


  • #4
    DublinDilbert
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,401 ✭✭✭DublinDilbert


    ruicosta10 wrote: »
    Hi there, the heating system is oil. To the best of my knowledge, it is an open system, though I must admit I'm slightly ignorant of the terminology. The boiler heats the rads and the hot water cylinder at once.

    As far as I am aware, the problem is limited to the hot taps.

    So you should have a small and a large tank in the attic, the small tank is to keep the heating system topped up.

    Is there any dripping from the over flow on the small tank? You need to tie up the ball cock in the small tank (stop it filling) and see if it is loosing water over a few days/weeks.


  • #5
    ruicosta10
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 55 ✭✭ruicosta10


    DublinDilbert wrote: »
    So you should have a small and a large tank in the attic, the small tank is to keep the heating system topped up.

    Is there any dripping from the over flow on the small tank? You need to tie up the ball cock in the small tank (stop it filling) and see if it is loosing water over a few days/weeks.

    Yes, we have a small and large tank. OK, I will try that. So, the water level in the small tank should remain the same once the ball cock is tied up... and if not?


  • #6
    DublinDilbert
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,401 ✭✭✭DublinDilbert


    ruicosta10 wrote: »
    Yes, we have a small and large tank. OK, I will try that. So, the water level in the small tank should remain the same once the ball cock is tied up... and if not?

    Yep it should remain the same in the small tank (give or take a little bit). Put a little piece off 2 x 1 timer across the small tank and tie up the ball cock.

    If the level drops you could have a leak in your hot cylinder, causing hot water to go from the heating system into your hot water.


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  • #7
    ruicosta10
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 55 ✭✭ruicosta10


    DublinDilbert wrote: »
    Yep it should remain the same in the small tank (give or take a little bit). Put a little piece off 2 x 1 timer across the small tank and tie up the ball cock.

    If the level drops you could have a leak in your hot cylinder, causing hot water to go from the heating system into your hot water.

    OK, I've done this and there wasn't any change in the level.

    Is there a relatively simple way to drain or flush the hot water cylinder? Or would it be better to shock chlorinate by introducing bleach into the cold tank and allowing a contact time of a day or so in the system? Previously I would have only let it sit for a couple of hours.


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