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Kitchen door hinge

  • 21-12-2015 9:56pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,644 ✭✭✭


    I have a corner press in my kitchen (a below worktop unit), which has hinges similar to the attached which I think is probably pretty standard. But I'm having a problem with it and the piece of wood its screwed into.
    So the piece that would be on the left of the picture below has two screws top and bottom but it's like the hole it's screwed into has become worn away as the screw keeps coming lose (esp the top one) and you can almost push it back into the hole without much effort. Is there some kind of wood filler I could get to fill the hole that I can then re-screw into? Or is there a better solution. I hope the press isn't too heavy for the wood it's screwed into but not much I can do about that. It's not a solid wood kitchen.
    I can't move where the hinge is screwed in or the press won't be aligned properly or won't close.

    144.jpg

    Hope that makes sense! Bit of a DIY clown!


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 73,520 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    Can you take a pic of one if the screws and also one of where it's screwed into.
    It may be possible to drill a slightly bigger hole (while being careful not to drill all the way through) and use a different type of screw called a Euro screw.
    PanPozeEuroScrew.gif

    Now you may have this type of screw already, but if you don't, it would be the best solution IMO. The drill bit size you'd be looking for is 5mm,


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 29,093 ✭✭✭✭looksee


    Or coat a small bit of wood (matchstick say) with wood glue and push it into the hole. Let it dry then screw in the screw.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 456 ✭✭peter bermingham


    You see that happen a lot the screws used are more than likely screws called euro screws with a small plastic insert . If theirs a unit next to it use no4 30mm screws to fix it back on if no unit next to it, only the 18mm carcass get the door re bored so that the hinge screws into a new spot you could try that chemical metal stuff to fill where the screws have pulled out but i don't think you will have much luck


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 73,520 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    The springs on hinges put a lot of pressure on where the hinge is mounted


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,644 ✭✭✭sillysocks


    Sorry only seeing the responses now.
    I took a few photos and when I took the hinge fully off I can see it's been moved before so not the first time problem has happened I'm guessing.

    It's like the chipboard is too soft and the screw can just get pulled out of it over time maybe. Not sure if there's a solution or if filler will work? Can't really live with one press falling off all the time!
    Just put a teaspoon in beside the screw for scale!

    image_zpsecd4nkgj.jpeg

    image_zpsca8g7u3r.jpeg

    http://i1302.photobucket.com/albums/ag134/irlsetup/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpshok99upw.jpeg


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,596 ✭✭✭the_pen_turner


    how think is the timber behind the screw holes.
    is there more than one layer of chipboard
    if there is more than one layer then get longer screws.
    if its 1 layer then get 2 part filler and fit the hole , but pre drill for the screw or it will strip out again

    how far does the door open.
    im thinking that your hinges are 110 degree hinges.
    I often see these door being pulled because people forget about them and force the door past where it normally stops.
    180 degree hinges are better in tighter kitchens. I always try to fit them if I can.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 73,520 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    if say the euro screws will do just fine there. you may need to drill the hinge


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,644 ✭✭✭sillysocks


    I think from a quick Google it's a 180 hinge on the join to the carcass and a 110 on the join in the middle of the press door if that makes sense. I don't think we force it when opening it anyway. To be honest I think even when it was fitted it might not have been hung right as it always was a bit crooked but we've never had anyone back to check it.
    Where you can see the width of the press door in one of those photos that's about how wide the carcass is too.


    Thanks for the suggestions, I'll definitely try them after Christmas. For now I may have made the problem worse but have temporarily got it back up and working ok by just screwing the old screws in a bit sideways so they have a new part of the press to grip. Probably will worsen the issue by making the holes bigger but needed something sorted by Christmas. It's the Tupperware/every odd and end from the kitchen press so having it open with no door over Christmas wasn't an option!!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 138 ✭✭kawasaki1100


    From your photos it looks like fillers or screws will deffo not work. You could use 2no 35mm nut and bolt, you will need to drill 2 small holes through the chipboard gable to slide the bolts through. Fit 2 washers before you screw the nut on.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,644 ✭✭✭sillysocks


    From your photos it looks like fillers or screws will deffo not work. You could use 2no 35mm nut and bolt, you will need to drill 2 small holes through the chipboard gable to slide the bolts through. Fit 2 washers before you screw the nut on.

    Funny I thought of that last night and while I knew it wasn't the most elegant solution it might be the most durable - the press beside it is just the under the sink one so I don't really have any issues with having bolts etc on the inside of it. I'd just have to get a screw long enough to go through the sides of both presses.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 138 ✭✭kawasaki1100


    sillysocks wrote: »
    Funny I thought of that last night and while I knew it wasn't the most elegant solution it might be the most durable - the press beside it is just the under the sink one so I don't really have any issues with having bolts etc on the inside of it. I'd just have to get a screw long enough to go through the sides of both presses.

    Yes. From your photos you are running out of options. Providing though when you drill through your double wall you are not interfering with a neighbouring hinge on the other side the bolts at this stage will work all but a little agricultural they may look on the inside. Double wall you are prob looking at 50mm bolts, try and fit locknuts if you can for a belt and braces job.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 138 ✭✭kawasaki1100


    Yes. From your photos you are running out of options. Providing though when you drill through your double wall you are not interfering with a neighbouring hinge on the other side the bolts at this stage will work all but a little agricultural they may look on the inside. Double wall you are prob looking at 50mm bolts, try and fit locknuts if you can for a belt and braces job.
    If you deffo have a double gable wall situation try a longer 35mm screw first before you go down the bolt route.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 456 ✭✭peter bermingham


    If you deffo have a double gable wall situation try a longer 35mm screw first before you go down the bolt route.
    This is the way to do it use a number 4 35mm screw i have fixed a good few like this same problem as you have. And if that don't work use the bolt you could run the bolt straight through both hinges either side lock nut on that will never move and use lock nuts or your going to be tightening them all the time


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,644 ✭✭✭sillysocks


    Thank you all! Hopefully it'll hold up the next week or two and I'll get it sorted after Christmas!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 73,520 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    So is the hinge not like the one in the first pic then?

    Is it more like this?

    image.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,644 ✭✭✭sillysocks


    No it's like the first picture. This is a photo of it

    image_zpswkvxq3hy.jpeg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 73,520 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    Cool, they're the same idea. The first one you showed was an unusual type that you might use in a corner or on a door that folded in half.

    Is there another hinge back-to-back with it?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,644 ✭✭✭sillysocks


    Sorry to the untrained eye they looked much the same :)

    Hmm that might be a flaw in the plan because yes there is another hinge on the other side of where I was thinking the long screw would go into. It's a hinge similar to the one you posted earlier on tonight, just a normal opening hinge.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,605 ✭✭✭gctest50




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,577 ✭✭✭Bonzo Delaney


    gctest50 wrote: »

    That'd be a good idea
    Or if the hinge plate on the other press was exactly behind it just drill a hole straight through and bolt the two plates together


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 138 ✭✭kawasaki1100


    colm_mcm wrote: »
    Cool, they're the same idea. The first one you showed was an unusual type that you might use in a corner or on a door that folded in half.

    Is there another hinge back-to-back with it?

    Ah your photo confirms it perfectly, you have a double gable wall back to back. Launch 4 x 35mm screws in to your hinge fixing points the 35mm screws are long enough to catch the wall of the neighbouring cabinet securing your hinge. Job done.


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