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Cooker switch connection layout?

  • 02-12-2015 5:55pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,996 ✭✭✭


    Hello

    I'm trying to replace a switch\regulator in an old Kenwood hob. Very difficult to get exact replacement.

    I've sourced a new switch but the terminals have different labels. Please could anyone tell me:
    - if the new switch is suitable or not.
    - how the terminals labels map from the old switch to the new

    Old switch labels: Pilot, Load A, Neut, Load, Line
    New switch: S, 4, P2, 2, P1

    See photo attached. It's a dual hob switch, BTW.
    Thanks


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,382 ✭✭✭The Red Ace


    P1 LIVE
    2 LOAD A
    P2 LOAD B
    4 NEUT
    S NEON


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,996 ✭✭✭two wheels good


    That's ace! Thanks v much.

    Can't test it just yet. Hoping to find a single element switch tomorrow.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,996 ✭✭✭two wheels good


    All good. No blown fuses.
    One down, one to go. Thanks again.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,382 ✭✭✭The Red Ace


    As a matter of interest what problem have you with the hob that you want to replace a regulator


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,996 ✭✭✭two wheels good


    As a matter of interest what problem have you with the hob that you want to replace a regulator

    Problems switching off rings; one stays on fully, the other just faintly. Old age.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,382 ✭✭✭The Red Ace


    take the back off the switch, have it in the off position and adjust the brass set screw clockwise until you hear the points open, reassemble and check it all should be ok


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,996 ✭✭✭two wheels good


    take the back off the switch, have it in the off position and adjust the brass set screw clockwise until you hear the points open, reassemble and check it all should be ok

    Great! That worked. Except the pilot light has blown. Must be coincidental because when I swap in another pilot light it works. So not the switch.

    However .. a different pilot light issue on the *new* double switch.
    [EDIT]When using single element only, the pilot light come on briefly and goes off when the contacts click and the element starts heating. increased.
    When using both elements pilot light works correctly - stays on throughout the range.
    Any ideas? Note: this is the new switch. No adjustments made. Pilot connected between S and P2.

    Thanks


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