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12 volt DC TV

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  • 30-10-2015 10:51am
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 108 ✭✭


    Hi Folks, I like to replace my existing tv, which is a 220 volt ac currant model, running off a inverter, with a 12 volt dc model, as i understand it's easier on the leisure battery, But where to buy ??. I've seen some Avtect models in some motorhome mags,but they seem a crazy price,!!. Any ideas please.


Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 748 ✭✭✭Yawlboy


    I bought a Walker 24inch LCD TV/DVD combo unit with Saorview for my boat 2 years ago, it was 240V and 12V - local "Expert" store got it in especially for me. Cost €280

    I sold the boat last month so I don't have anymore details.


  • Registered Users Posts: 108 ✭✭sjfoley


    Thanks for that , powercity have some but they're 24in, they tell me the smaller ones have been discontinued, and the max I can take is 19in. Thanks anyway.


  • Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    A lot of TVs are native 12v but they won't be advertised as such. Just find one with one of these.

    5f65.jpg

    It's a switched mode power supply most people call them adapters. See the output is 12VDC.

    Then just use one of these type regulators instead. Ensure that the regulator meets or exceeds the TV power supply current rating. You need a regulator to protect the TV from the battery charging/discharging voltages.

    regulated-car-power-adapter-1a-with-6-charging-tips.jpg?w=283&h=283&r=4&o=mDZXU87DFxZWyYQtwTel1tXFwA0j&V=inag

    If you buy one advertised as dual power 230VAC / 12VDC expect to pay 4 prices for it.


  • Registered Users Posts: 108 ✭✭sjfoley


    Not sure if we're on the same page there Sir Liamalot, I want a tv that will run directly off 12v direct currant ,?? I'm confused as to where a Transformer would sort me. Regards Sime.


  • Registered Users Posts: 22,242 ✭✭✭✭jake is right


    Just look for a small TV that has an EXTERNAL power pack (output 12v.) in the power lead. Cut lead at TV side of pack, and connect your 12v. supply here. I got a Walker one in Power City, and have had no problems with it in two years.


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  • Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    If you go into a bricks and mortar shop. Find a tv you like, ask to see the power supply; if it says 12VDC output you know it'll run happily from a 12VDC battery.
    Pick up a 12VDC to 12VDC regulated car power supply on the way home with the same or higher output spec as the power supply on the tv you just bought preferably with the same type barrel jack with the same polarity (if not you can cannabilise the jack off the tv supply and solder it).
    Stick the tv mains adapter in the place where wall warts go to die or make a dual source powered tv from it with some switchgear.

    Bob's yer Auntie 12VDC tv!

    PS. It's worth checking if your current tv can be modified to run off battery. If it has an adapter post a photo and we'll have a gander, if it doesn't then if you're inclined you could open the tv and see if it's an internal SMPS.


  • Registered Users Posts: 108 ✭✭sjfoley


    Thanks for that, Much appreciated. Cheers


  • Registered Users Posts: 839 ✭✭✭kelbal


    Then just use one of these type regulators instead. Ensure that the regulator meets or exceeds the TV power supply current rating. You need a regulator to protect the TV from the battery charging/discharging voltages.
    I use a lead thats simply cigarette socket to TV input. You're saying the leisure battery voltage fluctuates and will do the TV damage in the long run?
    Is the idea that this regulator holds the supply at a steady 12V?


  • Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Exactly K. A buck boost regulator.
    Most batteries live around 12.5V under load so in a lot of circumstances it's ok to go straight from the battery.

    If the inverter alarm sounding is a regular occurrence the battery and hence the unregulated tv are operating at 10.5v. This will make the tv run hotter as the current increses in the circuitry.
    If you use the tv from the battery while connected to shore power and a battery charger, while driving or with solar charging, the TV sees >14V which runs hotter as the tv circuitry is dumping more volts into heat sinks.
    Eventually the capacitors dry out or the solder can crack.

    In most cases the tv works fine off the battery but doesn't live as long as if it had a clean power supply.

    The regulator will also help protect the tv from inductive power spikes and dips loads like larger water pumps or compressor fridges would create on startup.

    If you get a regulator with adjustable outputs and tips lots of electronics can run off a 2A job; external hard disks, portable shavers, battery chargers, integrated lighting consoles, electric massage cushions :pac:


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,968 ✭✭✭spaceHopper


    How big do you need these are up to 10 inches
    http://www.augustint.com/en/productlist-1-5.html


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  • Registered Users Posts: 905 ✭✭✭m8


    Pick up a 12VDC to 12VDC regulated car power supply on the way home.

    Where can I get one of these either onlineor in a shop?

    Have a 19" TV but no regulator just straight to the battery for last 4 years.


  • Registered Users Posts: 9,605 ✭✭✭gctest50


    12v yoke here :

    http://www.powercity.ie/?par=10-10-218279

    just add regulator


  • Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Whadya mean not suitable? How many voltage regulated watts do you need?
    You don't need the Samlex. Any buck boost regulator will do. Just add wires and a project case.


  • Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    m8 wrote: »
    one that is in in the US with no price or way of ordering,

    https://ironedison.com/dc-to-dc-converter


  • Registered Users Posts: 905 ✭✭✭m8


    LOL... I don't think so $135 for a TV that cost €150

    And the other ones you listed 5v for a 12v TV...lol.

    Like I said I have it connected for 4 years to the battery with no issues as I only use the TV when parked so I don't think I will be spending €135 for protection.



  • Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    The "5 volt" one takes an input voltage between 5V and 25V and outputs 2A at a preset regulated voltage achieved by adjustment of the 22 turn screw on the blue trimpot, between 5V and 24V eg. 12.5v. It can also power anything with 3 or 4 AAA, AA, C, D cells (4.5v/6V), PP3s (9V), USB (5V), lithium ion (5V), 12v domestic goods and car appliances, 24V truck appliances.

    25Watts.

    Here's a 150W looks Chinese-y :o
    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/High-Power-Automatic-lifting-pressure-MAX-14A-LTC3780-2-24V-Car-PC-Power-Supply-/321530461831?hash=item4adcb57e87:g:aIkAAOSw-jhUH4~X

    Loaded with safety features: "input reverse polarity protection , input and output reversed will burn " :pac:


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,040 ✭✭✭crabbypaddy


    m8 wrote: »
    Like I said I have it connected for 4 years to the battery with no issues as I only use the TV when parked so I don't think I will be spending €135 for protection.

    It 100% depends on the design especially the ones with proprietary plugs may have little or no internal regulation. I used to repair power supplies for artesyn, philips sony and others back in the naudies. Most 12v stuff was tested at least 8v to 18v.. Nowadays everything is cut to the bone if the manufacturer can save 0.1c by speccing a 16v cap instead of 25v or reducing the size if an inductor or rating of a diode they wont hesitate not to mention removing ptcs, reducing hestsink dimension, MOSFET with high rdson ratings etc.

    With a normal dc jack theres a good chance that 10v to 14v will be fine but there's no way of knowing unless the manufacturer specifies it, you open it up and look at the design of it, you suck it and see or you wait for someone else to try it and recommend it.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,322 ✭✭✭killalanerr


    m8 wrote: »
    LOL... I don't think so $135 for a TV that cost €150

    And the other ones you listed 5v for a 12v TV...lol.

    Like I said I have it connected for 4 years to the battery with no issues as I only use the TV when parked so I don't think I will be spending €135 for protection.

    The royal Sir gives all the best advice I even went and got the amperor unit a while back,but more times than not I also just run the tv direct from the 12v without any ill effects thus far,I did fry a set a while back by getting the poles the wrong way around when making a lead :o


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  • Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    tehehe, Actually Niloc was the one to find Amperor.
    My batteries are never below 12.0V but regularly over 15V.

    I've toasted more electronics than I care to count with reversed polarity. Best wire a plug onto it. Eventually there comes a night after a few beers the croc. clips will let you down...


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