How To Install Shiplap Cladding?

suburban guy

Hi,
Can someone advise on how I should install treated shiplap cladding to a shed I'm building? Ideally I'd like to secret nail / secret screw it but can't find anything I deem suitable in the usual stores. What should I use - stainless steel, galvanised, nails, screws......? What size? Where can I get it? Is secret nailing / screwing a good or bad idea - eg might it split the timber? The shiplap I've bought is 18mm thick at the main part and about 9mm at the "tongue" part, 144mm wide. I'll be installing it vertically? Thanks!

kadman

Post a picture of the shiplap, so you can get the best suggested methods, and maybe a few pointers
about the shed build too.

suburban guy

Ok, will take a photo in daylight tomorrow, thanks.

Grueller

Shiplap is designed to be installed horizontally as driving rain will get through the over lapping rebates on a very wet and windy day if it comes from the wrong side.

suburban guy

Thanks Grueller, but would rain not get in horizontally too since generally it comes down? Any ideas for my nailing question? Thanks.

Grueller

suburban guy wrote: »

Thanks Grueller, but would rain not get in horizontally too since generally it comes down? Any ideas for my nailing question? Thanks.

Not if the outer part of the rebate is to the bottom of the plank if you know what I mean. Have a look at the link and it should explain it. Left hand side is the outside.

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ogUKoT4jsFE/T2FQEI7C6bI/AAAAAAAAA9Y/Rb80TGxTCR4/s1600/Shiplap-typ.jpg

suburban guy

Thanks for that Grueller. Your diagram shows me it makes perfect sense alright to install it horizontally. But............................... I just way prefer the vertical look as I find it more aesthetically pleasing. Any tips on what I could do to make it more water-tight with a vertical installation? I already intend to use behind it a breathable membrane I have (Easy Trim Grafter 100) even though it's meant for the roof. That'd help??

Kadman, don't think I can post a photo as a message tells me I'm a "new user" (maybe 'cos I haven't been posting in quite a while). Anyway it's standard shiplap, the shed build is 4x2 carcassing with struts between the studs to take the siding, a little under 10x8', a mono pitch roof with quite a low slope.

Still haven't been able to find suitable nails / screws for the shiplap. Anyone any suggestions, PLEASE?!! I thought they'd be easy to source - just something that won't start rusting a week after installation! Should I secret nail / screw or not bother? Thanks.

Odelay

Grueller wrote: »

Not if the outer part of the rebate is to the bottom of the plank if you know what I mean. Have a look at the link and it should explain it. Left hand side is the outside.

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ogUKoT4jsFE/T2FQEI7C6bI/AAAAAAAAA9Y/Rb80TGxTCR4/s1600/Shiplap-typ.jpg

I think that image is upside fdown, water will run into the structure as I see it...

Odelay

suburban guy wrote: »

Thanks for that Grueller. Your diagram shows me it makes perfect sense alright to install it horizontally. But............................... I just way prefer the vertical look as I find it more aesthetically pleasing. Any tips on what I could do to make it more water-tight with a vertical installation? I already intend to use behind it a breathable membrane I have (Easy Trim Grafter 100) even though it's meant for the roof. That'd help??

Kadman, don't think I can post a photo as a message tells me I'm a "new user" (maybe 'cos I haven't been posting in quite a while). Anyway it's standard shiplap, the shed build is 4x2 carcassing with struts between the studs to take the siding, a little under 10x8', a mono pitch roof with quite a low slope.

Still haven't been able to find suitable nails / screws for the shiplap. Anyone any suggestions, PLEASE?!! I thought they'd be easy to source - just something that won't start rusting a week after installation! Should I secret nail / screw or not bother? Thanks.

Galvanised screws will be fine. It would be hard to secret nail and keep weather tight with the boards vertical. When secret nailed the boards can cup, not so bad horizontally but vertical water will get in, wet behind the boards and make it worse.
Have you bought the boards? If not then you could buy say 150x35 treated, nail vertically with 100mm between each board and the when done nail second layer over the gaps? Gives a steped look but does look good when done right.

suburban guy

Thanks, I've already bought and painted the boards. I've seen the stepped method you mention and it looks nice, I also like shiplap though. Anyway, to find enough 150x35s that'd be straight enough would be just too stressful! Since I started my project, a lot of what the timber suppliers pass off as acceptably straight has been an eye-opener. It's not like it's cheap!

Bonzo Delaney

suburban guy wrote: »

Thanks, I've already bought and painted the boards. I've seen the stepped method you mention and it looks nice, I also like shiplap though. Anyway, to find enough 150x35s that'd be straight enough would be just too stressful! Since I started my project, a lot of what the timber suppliers pass off as acceptably straight has been an eye-opener. It's not like it's cheap!

So your going vertical which means it's purely aesthetic
I'd prob fix osb3 to the studs with horizontal membrane stapled and lapped over then screw the ship lap on using stainless steel screws 4x 40 half threaded and have them all countersunk flush ,2 per board width evenly spaced and set out at about 2 ft centers in the height.
Or if you didn't want to see the screws screw on the osb3 to the studs then screw the sheeting on from the inside through the osb3 making sure the screws don't come through to the outside

suburban guy

Bonzo Delaney wrote: »

So your going vertical which means it's purely aesthetic
I'd prob fix osb3 to the studs with horizontal membrane stapled and lapped over then screw the ship lap on using stainless steel screws 4x 40 half threaded and have them all countersunk flush ,2 per board width evenly spaced and set out at about 2 ft centers in the height.
Or if you didn't want to see the screws screw on the osb3 to the studs then screw the sheeting on from the inside through the osb3 making sure the screws don't come through to the outside

Oh dear, I had decided at the outset I wouldn't use OSB for the sides because of budget but now you've made me rethink, Bonzo; it'd probably make things simpler & make for better installed shiplap, let alone better bracing for the shed. Decisions decisions. I've been using screws exclusively for the build thus far, but if I was to go for nails for the shiplap, any views for what type? Thanks for advice so far btw.

Bonzo Delaney

suburban guy wrote: »

Oh dear, I had decided at the outset I wouldn't use OSB for the sides because of budget but now you've made me rethink, Bonzo; it'd probably make things simpler & make for better installed shiplap, let alone better bracing for the shed. Decisions decisions. I've been using screws exclusively for the build thus far, but if I was to go for nails for the shiplap, any views for what type? Thanks for advice so far btw.

I don't think you'll get away with secret nailing as if it's the ship lap I'm thinking of wouldn't have enough covered " meat" to nail in to. And since it's already painted face nailing ring shanked nails would prob damage the finish. Even using a gas/air nailer. I don't imagine small oval nails would hold the timber over time. Thinking about it a bit more whether your going to use the osb or not I'd reckon you'd still have to run 2x1s if screwing 2x2s if nailing horizontally over the membrane then fix the ship lap to that it allows the timber to breath and also any moisture behind the ship lap to escape.
Depending on the size of the shed the osb would give it great structural strength covering your diagonal bracing needs. Other wise you could get away with squareing up the walls then insert diagonal bracing within the stud like diagonal bridging really.
I'd run with screwing far better neater and stronger job whether screwing from inside or outside if stainless screws were too pricey for you you could use coated decking screws.

suburban guy

Thanks Bonzo. Just one other thing before I put this to bed - should I put the ship lap pieces flush to one another or leave small expansion gaps?

kadman

Bonzo Delaney wrote: »

I don't think you'll get away with secret nailing as if it's the ship lap I'm thinking of wouldn't have enough covered " meat" to nail in to. And since it's already painted face nailing ring shanked nails would prob damage the finish. Even using a gas/air nailer. I don't imagine small oval nails would hold the timber over time. Thinking about it a bit more whether your going to use the osb or not I'd reckon you'd still have to run 2x1s if screwing 2x2s if nailing horizontally over the membrane then fix the ship lap to that it allows the timber to breath and also any moisture behind the ship lap to escape.
Depending on the size of the shed the osb would give it great structural strength covering your diagonal bracing needs. Other wise you could get away with squareing up the walls then insert diagonal bracing within the stud like diagonal bridging really.
I'd run with screwing far better neater and stronger job whether screwing from inside or outside if stainless screws were too pricey for you you could use coated decking screws.

I think you,ve just about nailed it there matey. Counter battening is the correct solution, as you suggest.:)

Bonzo Delaney

suburban guy wrote: »

Thanks Bonzo. Just one other thing before I put this to bed - should I put the ship lap pieces flush to one another or leave small expansion gaps?

I'd be putting them up hand tight wouldn't be putting to much pressure on them they'll swell themselves in damp weather and shrink a bit in dry spells especially the area that's south facing but the over lapped rebate should hide any movement there.
One other idea when putting them up is when your standing at the front of the shed looking at the sheeting always put the sheeting rebate facing away from you. It just means if the boards start to cup a bit you'll never see the joint from looking at the front of the shed.
Enjoy the project.

suburban guy

Great stuff, thanks for all the good advice, much appreciate it.